The radio was originally wired into the thermal breakers behind the fairing (yes I know...) they are now wired into the harness the original radio was wired to. Ground is connected to a screw on the side of the frame (the neck) and the power and ACC are running to the wires that the old radio was using. Radio is good, somtimes it will cut out for a second than restart just cruising down the road, others maybe 30 seconds, these long cut outs it will lose memory and reset completely.

 

I'm going with Ground Issue. Run a new ground wire from the radio harness itself to the ground bus in the faring. Splice it into the radio's harness properly: Solder, heat shrink.

 

Ditto Dr. Hess , if you are grounding the radio with a screw and wire eye connector it has probably corroded to the point of intermittant connection
to the frame. Ensure a good ground by using the bikes own ground buss as Dr. Hess describes . While your in there , ohm test the ground buss for good contact and clean/repair as required , you will be amazed at how well everything works with a proper ground.
FYI ., for good radio reception check your antenna mount point for a good ground also, and look for water seapage into the ant. coax cable. It usually shows up as slight rust at any coax connections you have to the radio but will usually show were the coax. plugs into the radio .

 

Where is the ground junction block? I will ground it to the black ground in the harness the old radio was connected to. Hopefully that is it!

 

It's kinda under the radio. Just follow a black wire. They all end up there.

 

One other thought came to mind as I was reading this through.

Unless the wires were soldered where you tapped into the harness, before that "block of something" filter type device that it came with, be certain the wires and the tape covering the splices is in good condition. Often guys will just twist wires together and slap a small piece of electrical tape where you tap in. I have had issues, especially on a vibrating piece of machinery. It's best to splice and slip some shrink tubing on the wire, then solder them together and shrink wrap it.

I took that "filter block" right out of the system and not sure what value it was to even be there in the first place(?). If it's still in your system it may need to be completely removed so it doesn't cause anything unusual to happen.

 

The filter block in the power lines should be left in, if you have it. It will reduce noise going to the radio. And what you describe, Johnny, is real close to what I refer to as "Harley Rider Electrics." I would see 3 or 4 of those crimp on wire splices in a row on a tail light wire under the rear fender, for example. It is my professional (retired Radio Electronics Officer, USMM) opinion that the best connection a layman can achieve in the automotive environment is as you describe, soldering the wires together and using heat shrink. There may be better MilSpec solutions, but given the tools we have available, that's the best way in my opinion. I have never had a connection I made like that fail.

 

Doc,

Thanks for the point of reference on the volt meter's position in the wiring chain. I would think a person would be better off monitoring the voltage at the battery?

I understand your above comments. Also respect your military training. A very good friend of mine oversaw aircraft radios and radar in the military during Vietnam.

As a point of reference that filter was placed there in order to overcome issues related to the original radio with the 22 amp original charging system. I removed it from the power circuit and have had no audible issues with my new JVC head unit @ 32 amps recharging system.

Perhaps if I had a high current unit such as an individual power amplifier added it may be necessary to place a choke filter externally, or even a large capacitor to assist in carrying a constant voltage under sudden heavy current draws such as what heavy bass can draw.

I'm the kind of person who is happy at 50 w/c x2 with ultra low distortion, and my 91db 4" Polk 2 ways.