EVO All Evo Model Discussion

How to: Replace broken shifter pawl spring.

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  #11  
Old 09-06-2014, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom84FXST
Great write-up and pics...seems insane not to go ahead and pull the case to clean/paint/powdercoat...and replace the bushings on the pivot shaft while your that far in.
Agree,

If you remove shocks, isolator brackets, and the one side isolator that'll come off, is it possible to remove the empty case and swingarm together from the rear?,
then you could work that stuck pivot shaft.
 
  #12  
Old 09-06-2014, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom84FXST
Great write-up and pics...seems insane not to go ahead and pull the case to clean/paint/powdercoat...and replace the bushings on the pivot shaft while your that far in.


Thanks

And yes, I'll be removing it to clean up and swap the bushings. The pivot shaft is seized and it will be easier to pull the whole section out with the trans case empty. I've done it before on my old 81 FLT and wasn't fun by myself. Figured it would be a little easier this way
 
  #13  
Old 09-06-2014, 04:17 PM
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Lost my spring a couple years ago on the way back from Street Vibes, still had about 50 miles to go. Started it in 1st and up shifted with the back of my heel. Had an Indy shop strip it down & replace it for about $700. Too technical for me at the time.
 
  #14  
Old 09-06-2014, 04:47 PM
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You don't need to do 4/5ths of what you show here.

Leave the primary side of the bike alone completely except for remove the shift lever from the splines and flicking the circlip off the shaft (you will need a new circlip and preferably the seal too.

Pull the top off the tranny and remove the shifter assembly.

Remove the clutch mechanism cover and the trap door assembly (Use a puller or hide Mallet and replace the bearings before reassembly)

You can now wiggle the countershaft out of the way just enough to remove the shifter shaft assembly and get a magnet in there to remove any missing pieces.

Reassemble in reverse order but fit the seal and circlip before replacing the countershaft.

Its a fiddle but will save you 3-4 hours and a shitload of cash.
 
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  #15  
Old 09-07-2014, 09:53 AM
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pictures are awesome...
 
  #16  
Old 09-07-2014, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Spanners39
You don't need to do 4/5ths of what you show here.

Leave the primary side of the bike alone completely except for remove the shift lever from the splines and flicking the circlip off the shaft (you will need a new circlip and preferably the seal too.

Pull the top off the tranny and remove the shifter assembly.

Remove the clutch mechanism cover and the trap door assembly (Use a puller or hide Mallet and replace the bearings before reassembly)

You can now wiggle the countershaft out of the way just enough to remove the shifter shaft assembly and get a magnet in there to remove any missing pieces.

Reassemble in reverse order but fit the seal and circlip before replacing the countershaft.

Its a fiddle but will save you 3-4 hours and a shitload of cash.

I suppose you could. But this bike has 40k miles and anyone who has this spring break will be similar or more miles. So why risk missing a chunk of metal, not replacing all the seals and gaskets, inspecting the gears, and putting it back together with confidence.

This one had to come apart because he kept riding and shredded the broken spring. There's metal all through it.

Mike
 
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Old 09-07-2014, 10:49 AM
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My understanding, from the time I had my 1990 spring replaced, is that the year of bike affects how much work is involved in replacing that spring. Later bikes are easier to get at through the top of the trans case, but in earlier bikes the shifter shaft cannot be removed without removing the gear cluster. The gear cluster was redesigned in 1994.
 
  #18  
Old 09-07-2014, 12:36 PM
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From my experience Graham you still have to do the minimum that Spanners explained.

IMO I can't agree with the op more. For the sake of high mileage leaky seals ect. I'd rather do it all at once.
 
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Old 09-07-2014, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by MIKE93SVT
I suppose you could. But this bike has 40k miles and anyone who has this spring break will be similar or more miles. So why risk missing a chunk of metal, not replacing all the seals and gaskets, inspecting the gears, and putting it back together with confidence.

This one had to come apart because he kept riding and shredded the broken spring. There's metal all through it.

Mike
40K is nothing on an Evo or TC Tranny, you can inspect the gears with the shafts still in the case. the spring just breaks off and drops into the bottom, its easy enough to get the pieces out. I use a rare-earth magnet....it tries to pull the gears out too

I have done several of these using the method I described above and they are all still running.
 
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  #20  
Old 09-07-2014, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Spanners39
40K is nothing on an Evo or TC Tranny, you can inspect the gears with the shafts still in the case. the spring just breaks off and drops into the bottom, its easy enough to get the pieces out. I use a rare-earth magnet....it tries to pull the gears out too

I have done several of these using the method I described above and they are all still running.
I'm not arguing with you. That would work if it was shutdown. But you're not going to get all the shavings out if the guy didn't turn it off immediately. The previous owner of this one did not.

Mike

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