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How to cut new threads in crankcase?

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  #11  
Old 09-16-2014, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
Since the Harley reman is over is it still possible to take his left case in and have Harley send a new one with the same numbers?
My understanding is that S&S actually did the H-D reman engines and have set up there own system, to replace the H-D one. I doubt if the MoCo is still supporting Evo new parts.
 
  #12  
Old 09-16-2014, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom84FXST
The only way to repair it correctly is to split the cases...the only way to tap it for oversize or helicoil is to cut the tap as the flywheels are too close to the hole...and you will have to grind it down as you go to get full threads. On a bottom breather, you can hook compressed air to the engine breather port and it will blow the chips out as you go...not sure you can do that with a top breather engine.
There you go, good idea with the air blowing out.
Try hooking compressed air to the case where the oil tank vent line is, see how much volume of air you get from the plug.

Maybe could tap it to pipe thread, so you don't have to rely on the taper part of the plug to seal it.


Crazy idea,,,, start engine and run about 2.5k, that should keep the shavings out, and lube the tap at the same time!
 
  #13  
Old 09-16-2014, 07:52 AM
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This may be a bit off the wall.
Would it be possible to lay the bike all the way over on it's left side and work from the bottom.

We did this very thing fixing a drain plug on a J__ uh metric bike. To keep the shavings from going in the case.
Used some old blankets and carpet remnants.

WP
 
  #14  
Old 09-16-2014, 08:33 AM
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Plenty of grease on the tap. Use a bottoming tap. Vacuum cleaner while you do it. If it's not stripped too bad, you can put several layers of teflon tape on your plug and it will hold.

Also, I seem to recall that someone makes an oversized plug for that. Self tapping, I think, or a kit. Try the usual aftermarket places.
 
  #15  
Old 09-16-2014, 09:49 AM
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OK, I got un-lazy. Here you go:
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/432-363


It's even chrome.
 
  #16  
Old 09-16-2014, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
Plenty of grease on the tap. Use a bottoming tap. Vacuum cleaner while you do it. If it's not stripped too bad, you can put several layers of teflon tape on your plug and it will hold.

Also, I seem to recall that someone makes an oversized plug for that. Self tapping, I think, or a kit. Try the usual aftermarket places.
That is EXACTLY what I did on my Shovel years ago and it worked just fine. And used the kit you posted.
 
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Old 09-16-2014, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
OK, I got un-lazy. Here you go:
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/432-363


It's even chrome.
This I guess is the same thing just another source.
http://www.dragspecialties.com/searc...ocType=product

According to the shop I checked with you go in 1/3 of the way then remove and vacuum. Repeat till done.
 
  #18  
Old 09-16-2014, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
OK, I got un-lazy. Here you go:
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/432-363


It's even chrome.

Read the "Important Product Notes" For use on unassembled engine cases only...gotta cut that tap to use it on an assembled engine.
 
  #19  
Old 09-16-2014, 05:42 PM
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Guess we're back to a plug to get started and a bottoming tap to finish it then.
 
  #20  
Old 09-16-2014, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Schex3x
There you go, good idea with the air blowing out.
Try hooking compressed air to the case where the oil tank vent line is, see how much volume of air you get from the plug.

Maybe could tap it to pipe thread, so you don't have to rely on the taper part of the plug to seal it.


Crazy idea,,,, start engine and run about 2.5k, that should keep the shavings out, and lube the tap at the same time!
You may be on to something Schex. Mechanic said to put compressed air to tranny vent to see how much air will blow out and grease tap well.
Still sounds pretty chancy though.
 


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