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  #11  
Old 09-16-2014, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Pthom
Thank you for all of the advice.

I have a Clymers manual for it already. Looks like I will be buying a rebuild kit for it and getting it apart.

It does have the slide in the opening. Behind the slide appears to be a butterfly. Is that right for a CV?




+1 on getting the Factory Service Manual.
It will be way more helpful than the Clymer.
 
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  #12  
Old 09-16-2014, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Tee⋁13224189
7/16 drill bit about an inch into the cover.
That would bore a 7/16 inch hole one inch deep into the carburetor....
 
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Old 09-16-2014, 09:06 PM
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I just wanted to say that I joined this forum this morning and I am blown away by the help you all have provided me.

I'll keep you all posted and I am sure I will have questions.

Thanks again!
 
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Old 09-16-2014, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Pthom
I just wanted to say that I joined this forum this morning and I am blown away by the help you all have provided me.

I'll keep you all posted and I am sure I will have questions.

Thanks again!
You wont be so chipper when the bill arrives in the mail.
 
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  #15  
Old 09-16-2014, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
That would bore a 7/16 inch hole one inch deep into the carburetor....
I adjusted the mixture screw from seated to 2.5 turns in the spring. I'm sure the screwdriver is fairly well covered. But to be safe just do 3/8 to half an inch.
 
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  #16  
Old 09-17-2014, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Tee⋁13224189
Yup. And welcome to the bestest forum on the board! Keep the Clymers but get the FSM for sure. Carefully drill out the wax, mud or whatever is over the mixture screw, 7/16 drill bit about an inch into the cover.
Welcome aboard,
Tom
Cover/plug over the A/F mixture screw? For the a/f plug - 1/8" drill bit very carefully throughout the plug. Don't hit the screw, the plug is less than 1/16" thick.
 
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  #17  
Old 09-17-2014, 12:54 PM
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I just did my 90 fltcu double check the intake seals. I had float problems that sound very similar to what you are going threw. A ez ajust needle is a big help and around 15 dollars.
 
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  #18  
Old 09-17-2014, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
Your bike is what is referred to as a "bottom breather." The breather is at the bottom, towards the middle from the oil pump, as God intended it to be. Yes, the bolts are solid and not banjo because that's not the breather. Oh, and just to cover it for when you will eventually ask, yes, it is normal for oil to puke out the breather if you let the bike sit for several weeks to months.

Now, for your carb issue, first check for intake leaks. Next throw away that POS carb and put a S&S or a CV on there and you will solve the majority of your problems. Or if you insist on keeping the Keihin POS, rebuild it and you can get it to run poorly to fair (if you're really good.)
That funny right there, because it's so true. I am actually waiting for it to happen to mine just so I can not be worried about it when it happens, LOL. Previous owner said it happened to him a couple times.
 
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Old 09-18-2014, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Pthom
I just wanted to say that I joined this forum this morning and I am blown away by the help you all have provided me.

I'll keep you all posted and I am sure I will have questions.

Thanks again!
You have a cv carb. and they are an excellent example of Japanees engineering and so much better than the older style carbs.
Your particular problem could have many carb. related causes but i would advise you to rebuild the entire carb.
Google to find many HD cv carb. sites with parts and info.
The whole deal will cost you less than $100.00 bucks including shipping to your door if you do it yourself.
 
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  #20  
Old 09-19-2014, 05:47 AM
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In addition to the above suggestions remove the gas tap and clean that and the tank. That will complete a spring clean of your fuelling system. A rebuild kit for the carb will provide a complete set of perishable parts, to give that a fresh lease of life.
 
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