It doesn't take much.

As for waiting for oil to puke out the bottom breather, if you ride regularly it won't happen. This usually happens when it isn't ridden for about a month or more and the check ball gets stuck momentarily.

 

Before you tinker with the carb, other than a good, thorough cleaning and rebuild kit, replace the intake seals like so many have mentioned. Odds are good this is really the only problem unless you have an overflow issue.

Too often some jump on the "re-jet it" band wagon when they shouldn't even mislead people into thinking that's a real issue. The bike ran at one time just the way it was setup. Soon as you change jet sizes your into a whole lot of aggravation for no reason.

Odds are it simply needs a thorough cleaning and rebuild, along with intake seals.

There may be dirt lodged in the Idle Air adjustment so removing the seals and backing it out for cleaning is good advice too. Start at 1 1/2 turns out. Set the throttle so you can idle it up enough to keep it running and adjust the Idle Air until it smooths out. Let it drop back to an idle and tweak it one direction until it runs ruff, then tweak it the other direction until it runs ruff. Move it to a half way point from those two points and you'll be good to go.

If you have flooding issues you may want to add a new float valve with it's fresh rubber seal that can deteriorate, maybe even a new float, some can become filled with gas and will never work right.

 

I picked up a new air filter and a James rebuild kit. I think I am going to get the EZ Just too.

Thank you for the guidance. I'll keep you posted.

 

Ok, with the help of my bro I now have the carb rebuilt and new intake gaskets on. Problem is that as soon as I turn the fuel petcock on gas comes out the overflow tube.

I seem to recall seeing this same problem posted and the answer was that something was put in upside down? I have seen that the most common response is that the float is not right.

Suggestions on where to start? I would really hate to pull the carb off again. Anyway to start troubleshooting simple stuff without taking the carb off?

 

My first thought is your float level isn't set right.

 

Take out the petcock and check it's condition. Is there a lot of debris up against the petcock's screen? Excessive debris can get through the petcock screen lodge in the float valve seat and cause flooding

Perhaps replace the gasoline too, as they do age and debris from the inside of that rubber hose can lodge in the inlet valves seat and hold the float valve open. I have even used q-tips and brasso to clean old stuck rubber from the inlets seat and to polish it smooth so the new float vale can seat.

The float has to be precisely set, and this may be the only issue you are now having. Get the specs from a service manual and follow the photo precisely.

One last thought, the carb seal can be dislodged from the indention it sets in while assembling. Make certain it not being pinch or squished inward or outward when you put the float bowl back on. It's best to use a fresh seal
to avoid it stretching, or shrinking and not fitting perfectly. This may actually be your only issue.

Your close to having it done.

 

I took the bowl off while the carb is still on the bike. I was able to verify that if the float was pushed all the way up the fuel stopped flowing, or at least it slowed to a drip. I am assuming if I waited long enough it would have stopped completely.

With the float down there is a deluge of gas and a whistling sound. The whistling is a little odd. Is that an indication of a vacuum /venting problem? Is that my issue or does all of this still lead me to pulling it off and checking the float level?

 

Afraid so. Follow the procedure in the manual, but what worked for me was making sure the float was parallel to the bowl mating surface when the carb is held at an angle such that the float will just seat..... kind of upside down, but not quite. You'll probably find that the hinge side of your float is farther from the mating surface when you hold it like that. It's also possible that the float is cracked and taking on fuel and sinking.

 

First, thank you all for helping me through this.

I found that the float was not in spec according to the book. I adjusted it and put it back on. Same problem. Gas flowing out the over flow tube. I adjusted it back to where it was previously and for kicks I put the original needle back in. It sat differently. To be specific, I found that the two needles did not fit and/or act the same.

I put the carb back and the problem is now gone. Which is awesome! Just a little wierd. They look the same. Any theories?

Also... And this is a little off topic, but IMO has to be related, the turn signals no longer turn themselves off automatically. Before you laugh, here is why I think it is related:

To get the throttle cables off the carb, I didn't adjust the cables to get slack, I pulled as much slack as I could from the handle bars toward the carb and it gave me just enough to get the cables loose. Worked great since I didn't have to readjust anything.

What I am thinking is that I bumped something up in the fairing when I pulled the cables tight. Electrical connections are right there on the Tour Glide.

What turns the signals off? Any ideas?

 

Glad too hear your carb. leak is now fixed . You must be very carefull with the float setting and also with the float inlet valve , valve seat and correct installation of the holding clip and pivot . Do everything with surgical precision according to a proper HD manual and not a Clymers.
You should replace all intake system seals while your in there or as a winter project. As your running rich and not lean the seals are probably still ok.
As your bike is 24 years old ( as mine is ) your accelerator pump diaphram is probably toast , check this .
Re: signal cancellation ... ( Get an HD manual ) the Clymer is useless for this type of problem.
Your bike uses a turn signal/4way flasher electronic modual located on the upper right fork tube . It receives signals from the speedometer etc. to determine when to cancel the turn signals.
If you have a batwing front fairing i suggest you remove it and check all the 24 year old wiring and connectors etc. Pay special attension to the wiring harness at the pivot point of the front forks , this harness is moved back and forth each time you turn . The old wiring gets very weak at this pivot point.
See forum to stretch test these probematic wires or pm me.