maximizing low-mid torque
#11
The single best value for an increase in low & mid range torque is a set of Thunder Torque Inserts. For around $25, they increase torque an average of 5-10% across the entire low & mid range band. They can be used on almost any exhaust system.
Check out some of the dyno charts at the link above.
Check out some of the dyno charts at the link above.
#14
trying to avoid cams because I do not have any place that I could do the install myself - all we have here is street parking so I'd be bolting things on as cars drive by. Not a good place to pop open the engine or do multi-hour installs. Not to mention no place to put tools. So I'd have to take it to the shop and pay hundreds for labor. :/
All I really need is enough umph to make low-low rpm torque good enough that the engine doesn't struggle under all the load. If I can. If not....
All I really need is enough umph to make low-low rpm torque good enough that the engine doesn't struggle under all the load. If I can. If not....
#15
No you're not! The factory exhaust on recent bikes is a 2-into-1, except it then splits into two. The critical feature of that design is bringing the two pipes together, which enables the two cylinders to work together off each other. A 2-into-1 like the one in my photo below works better than the older split system.
Dyno graphs will only help if they are taken on the same bike and same dyno, so don't lean too heavily on that. There are very few examples of doing that.
If you have the stock catalytic converter you can replace it with a clear collector and retain the rest of your pipes, then add aftermarket mufflers. After that take it to a local indy for new cams, because they are going to do even more for you.
Our stock bikes come with restrictive airbox and mufflers plus quiet cams, which are compromised to comply with EPA regulations. IMHO changing the cams is the most important upgrade. Call a local indy for prices before you decide against doing that! You may just be surprised at the cost and improved performance.
Dyno graphs will only help if they are taken on the same bike and same dyno, so don't lean too heavily on that. There are very few examples of doing that.
If you have the stock catalytic converter you can replace it with a clear collector and retain the rest of your pipes, then add aftermarket mufflers. After that take it to a local indy for new cams, because they are going to do even more for you.
Our stock bikes come with restrictive airbox and mufflers plus quiet cams, which are compromised to comply with EPA regulations. IMHO changing the cams is the most important upgrade. Call a local indy for prices before you decide against doing that! You may just be surprised at the cost and improved performance.
#16
No you're not! The factory exhaust on recent bikes is a 2-into-1, except it then splits into two. The critical feature of that design is bringing the two pipes together, which enables the two cylinders to work together off each other. A 2-into-1 like the one in my photo below works better than the older split system.
Dyno graphs will only help if they are taken on the same bike and same dyno, so don't lean too heavily on that. There are very few examples of doing that.
If you have the stock catalytic converter you can replace it with a clear collector and retain the rest of your pipes, then add aftermarket mufflers. After that take it to a local indy for new cams, because they are going to do even more for you.
Our stock bikes come with restrictive airbox and mufflers plus quiet cams, which are compromised to comply with EPA regulations. IMHO changing the cams is the most important upgrade. Call a local indy for prices before you decide against doing that! You may just be surprised at the cost and improved performance.
Dyno graphs will only help if they are taken on the same bike and same dyno, so don't lean too heavily on that. There are very few examples of doing that.
If you have the stock catalytic converter you can replace it with a clear collector and retain the rest of your pipes, then add aftermarket mufflers. After that take it to a local indy for new cams, because they are going to do even more for you.
Our stock bikes come with restrictive airbox and mufflers plus quiet cams, which are compromised to comply with EPA regulations. IMHO changing the cams is the most important upgrade. Call a local indy for prices before you decide against doing that! You may just be surprised at the cost and improved performance.
plus of course stage 1 upgrades - Airbox, pipes, PCV (another coouple hundred). so over a grand even if I do the stage 1 myself.
I'm not trying to max out performance, just make it happier around town. If I had my own place to do work cams would be a no brainer
#17
If the exhaust is shorter ie. patriot pipe, the low end power will suffer. The longer 2 into 1's usually have equal length headers a longer collector and longer muffler body, all this helps low end. Short pipes cause more reversion of exhaust gases that disturb the next combustion cycle.
#19
Not trying to stir the pot here but I don't quit get the logic. You plan on putting on better flowing slip-ons and then install restrictive torque cones..
Torque Cone benefits are debatable. Some claim that the do work, some claim they don't. Of course, all the distributers claim they work (no surprise there).
Would be nice to see some independent before and after dyno results.
dyno 1. Slip-ons without the cone
dybo 2. Slip-ons with cone
No tuning prior to each pull
Last edited by Boost; 11-04-2014 at 03:56 AM.
#20
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
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For 1.5" - 2.5" the W118 Model will work well.
Fore 2.5"-3.5" the W258 will work well.
For 3.5" or larger ends the W258 Model is generally preferred.
Not trying to stir the pot here but I don't quit get the logic. You plan on putting on better flowing slip-ons and then install restrictive torque cones..
Torque Cone benefits are debatable. Some claim that the do work, some claim they don't. Of course, all the distributers claim they work (no surprise there).
Would be nice to see some independent before and after dyno results.
dyno 1. Slip-ons without the cone
dybo 2. Slip-ons with cone
No tuning prior to each pull
Torque Cone benefits are debatable. Some claim that the do work, some claim they don't. Of course, all the distributers claim they work (no surprise there).
Would be nice to see some independent before and after dyno results.
dyno 1. Slip-ons without the cone
dybo 2. Slip-ons with cone
No tuning prior to each pull
They don't look the same.
They don't install in the same location.
They don't work on restriction or back-pressure.
Thunder Torque Inserts are a patent pending design, virtually the opposite of Torque Cones. The TTI's work by Speeding up exhaust gas velocity, NOT restricting it.
We have done many dyno runs before/after with torque cones. We have found the same thing that most others have found...no improvement, and sometimes a detriment.
Thunder Torque Inserts have shown themselves to work well, time after time on the dyno, as well as the butt dyno. The link above has more than a few dyno charts in them, but I will put a typical one below-