How do I adjust the throttle position sensor
#1
07-15-2007, 08:19 AM
How do I adjust the throttle position sensor
The throttle position sensor came loose on my 01 ultra. I've got a CD service manual but it tells you to take measurments from the old one before removing it. I've got a PC III. I tried backing off the idle adjustment screw and adjusting the sensor until the PC III said 0% throttle on my lap top. No dice... It barely ran and was back firing out the throttle body.No matter where I adjust it the idle is all over the place and it's running like crap.
HELP!
Re'
HELP!
Re'
#2
07-15-2007, 10:26 AM
Outstanding HDF Member
RE: How to adjust throttle position sensor
You need a DT to see what the voltage is when the hot and cold idle screws are removed.....
What caused it to come loose, the screws are epoxied in, and the heads are filled with the same epoxy....
When the idle screws are out, the TP should read .27vDC.....
That is TPS Zero on the Induction module, NOT THE PC.....
What caused it to come loose, the screws are epoxied in, and the heads are filled with the same epoxy....
When the idle screws are out, the TP should read .27vDC.....
That is TPS Zero on the Induction module, NOT THE PC.....
#3
07-16-2007, 08:19 AM
RE: How to adjust throttle position sensor
The throttle position screws on my bike have no epoxy or even evidence it was ever there. I assume the engine vibrated the screws loose.
I have a digital volt meter. Backed out the idle screw and adjusted the TPS to .27VDC. Then turned the idle screw in to around .40 VDC. It won't run at all below 2k, and even then it's backfiring out the throttle body. I got it to run somewhat by holding the revs up and adjusting the idle screw and TPS until it ran OK. Still below 1500-2k it was back firing out the throttle body. I tried adding fuel and taking fuel away through the PC III and it made very little difference. I rode it arround the block and below 2500rpm it felt like it was tied to a stump, above that it ran fine.
This has got me tottaly stumped because the bike was running great before the TPS screws came loose.
Re'
I have a digital volt meter. Backed out the idle screw and adjusted the TPS to .27VDC. Then turned the idle screw in to around .40 VDC. It won't run at all below 2k, and even then it's backfiring out the throttle body. I got it to run somewhat by holding the revs up and adjusting the idle screw and TPS until it ran OK. Still below 1500-2k it was back firing out the throttle body. I tried adding fuel and taking fuel away through the PC III and it made very little difference. I rode it arround the block and below 2500rpm it felt like it was tied to a stump, above that it ran fine.
This has got me tottaly stumped because the bike was running great before the TPS screws came loose.
Re'
#4
07-19-2007, 06:26 PM
Outstanding HDF Member
RE: How to adjust throttle position sensor
ORIGINAL: RE AND CHERYL
The throttle position screws on my bike have no epoxy or even evidence it was ever there. I assume the engine vibrated the screws loose.
I have a digital volt meter. Backed out the idle screw and adjusted the TPS to .27VDC (Good). Then turned the idle screw in to around .40 VDC (Try .64 vDC on the COLD [Top screw at ISC arm]).
Then with the Cold at .64 vDC, the hot idle screw should be set to .7 vDC and hot idle (950-1050) is adjusted when Head temp is at 280 degrees F.
It won't run at all below 2k,(Because the ISC and TP aren't synchronized to the required settings that the ECM is expecting)and even then it's backfiring out the throttle body (Because it is OVERLY RICH!!!!!). I got it to run somewhat by holding the revs up and adjusting the idle screw and TPS until it ran OK. Still below 1500-2k it was back firing out the throttle body. (Get the settings correct, or take it to a Tech that knows how to do it, there are VERY SPECIFIC STEPS on how to do it, and a specific sequence of events to dial it in) I tried adding fuel and taking fuel away through the PC III and it made very little difference. I rode it arround the block and below 2500rpm it felt like it was tied to a stump, above that it ran fine.
This has got me tottaly stumped because the bike was running great before the TPS screws came loose.
Re'
The throttle position screws on my bike have no epoxy or even evidence it was ever there. I assume the engine vibrated the screws loose.
I have a digital volt meter. Backed out the idle screw and adjusted the TPS to .27VDC (Good). Then turned the idle screw in to around .40 VDC (Try .64 vDC on the COLD [Top screw at ISC arm]).
Then with the Cold at .64 vDC, the hot idle screw should be set to .7 vDC and hot idle (950-1050) is adjusted when Head temp is at 280 degrees F.
It won't run at all below 2k,(Because the ISC and TP aren't synchronized to the required settings that the ECM is expecting)and even then it's backfiring out the throttle body (Because it is OVERLY RICH!!!!!). I got it to run somewhat by holding the revs up and adjusting the idle screw and TPS until it ran OK. Still below 1500-2k it was back firing out the throttle body. (Get the settings correct, or take it to a Tech that knows how to do it, there are VERY SPECIFIC STEPS on how to do it, and a specific sequence of events to dial it in) I tried adding fuel and taking fuel away through the PC III and it made very little difference. I rode it arround the block and below 2500rpm it felt like it was tied to a stump, above that it ran fine.
This has got me tottaly stumped because the bike was running great before the TPS screws came loose.
Re'
If the TP voltage is out of range, proceed as follows:
a. Remove air cleaner and backplate assembly. See
AIR CLEANER, REMOVAL, in the appropriate FLT
Models Service Manual.
b. With the Engine Stop/Run Switch in the RUN position,
turn the Ignition Light/Key Switch to ON and
then back to the OFF position. The idle speed control
actuator retracts, and then moves out to the
parked position.
c. Unplug the wire harness connector from the idle
speed control actuator. See Figure 1.
d. With the Engine Stop/Run Switch in the RUN position,
turn the Ignition Light/Key Switch to ON.
e. While observing TP voltage under the Data Monitor
Menu of the Scanalyzer (or Breakout Box and
DVOM), use a T10 TORX drive head to adjust the
cold idle speed set screw until reading is within the
voltage range(0.64 to 0.68 vDC).
Be sure not to move the idle speed lever while turning the screw.
[i]NOTE
Gently open the throttle to better access the cold idle speed
set screw. After making the adjustment, gently roll the throttle
closed and recheck the TP voltage reading.
DO NOT
[font=helvetica-oblique][size=1]allow throttle to “snap shut” or the idle speed control actuator
may move (resulting in an unwanted voltage change that
requires the adjustment procedure be restarted).For proper adjustment, always check/set cold idle speed
adjustment before proceeding. See COLD IDLE SPEED
ADJUSTMENT on page 1.
[font=helvetica][size=1]1. If cold idle speed was adjusted, install air cleaner backplate.
See AIR CLEANER, INSTALLATION, in the
appropriate FLT Models Service Manual.
If cold idle speed adjustment was not necessary,
remove air cleaner cover and filter. See AIR CLEANER,
[left]REMOVAL, in the appropriate FLT Mode
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