I don't have a dyno to post but here is what I got from:

SE 95" Big Bore
Flat Top Pistons
SE Performance Heads
Wood TW 6 Cams
D&D Fatcat 2-1 Exhaust
SERT
10-1 CR

91.4 ft/lb torque
92.0 HP

It hit's 90 ft/lb at 2.7k, then dips to 87 at 3.6k-4.0k, then back to 91at 4k where it stays to 5.8K rpm.

The tuner is highly respected in DFW but admittedly did not get to do a complete tune on the bike and the AFR shows it. Around 15 between 2.5rpm and 3.0rpm before settling in between 12.5 and 13.0 at 3200rpm. He said he ran out of time, and wanted me to take it back again another day the following week. Not a convenient location or opportunity for me either way, so I just took the bikeback at the end of the day. He refused to take payment for the "tune" admitting he had not spent much time on it.
I suppose I have to blame these numbers on the current tune, causethe only place I got substantial improvement, after adding SE Heads,Fatcat 2-1's,and Woods Cams, was in HP. My tune with VH Duals, stock heads, 95" with SE 203's got 86ft/lb and 78HP. So basically adding SE Heads, 2-1 Fatcat, Woods Cams, I got 5 ft/lb of torque and 14 HP increase. The bike feels lot's stronger, and once again runs pretty good, but I've got to believe there is more torque to be had with the Wood Cams and the Fatcat. The Horsepower increase is about what I expected.

I realize these little SE 95" builds aren't very sexy compared to some of the other monster builds that are taking place, but this is one I could afford at the time, and would have been happy with 92-95HP and 98-100 ft/lb. So while I admit many have said that SE builds aren't worth the money and to think twice, it wasn't in the cards for me this time around. I realize the answer is to get it tuned again properly, but what kind of numbers should I reasonably expect from this build once properly tuned. Or is this about what I should expect?

If I can't improve the performance of this setup, I'll be sending the 06 take off Heads to one of the fine builders, and likely swapping out the cams as well. If I can get same or better performance without the Woods valve train noise, I'd prefer it. In fact, I'd even consider swapping the camswith the current setup if I thought I could get the torque up early and at or very close to 100, without the noise. I did do this build once before with gear drive Woods cams (TW5G's) and the same Heads, and got over 100/100 on an 03 Fatboy with a Thunderheader, so I didn't think I was doing anything radical. The bike doesn't ping, runs pretty smooth and actually pulls pretty hard, just not where I think it should be. Also didn't have this much noise with the old even higher lift Woods cam.

I know I know, I can take a few "I told you so's"....at least it's out here for the world to see Any thoughts folks?

 

Like you I would think you should have seen a few more lbs out of it. The horses came up nicely. I have the same build as you except 570 gear and Big Shots. Mine has a "cult" name called a Hippo build. On the Harley Tech Talk forum there are 15 or 20 of us that have done the build I have with pipe differances. You can see my dyno run in my gallery. Just click the camra under my aviator. I don't have any personal experance with the Woods cams but hear good things. The 570 cam with our other components and a good set of pipes (which yours are much better) in most of the builds get mid to upper 90's on both. I took my time and set my gear drive up right (run out/smaller pinion gear/ect.) but they are as quite as chains. With your pipe on my bike those upper 9's to 100 should be in easy reach. For sure I would send my SE heads to be reworked before I sent stockers if you go that route. Better platform to start with.

 

I dont think you need new cams, I would ditch the heads for the reworked OE heads, have HQ or R&R do them and you might consider swaping out the pistons for some pop ups set for 10.5 to one.

as for tunning, you can expect the bike to require 4 hrs or more on the dyno do dail the SERT properly, or buy the HQ auto tune and let her rip!

I blame the heads for the low numbers and the posibilty that your compesion isnt what you think it is.

 

You can get your headscnc portedfor under 600 dollarsthat will take it up to 105- 108 torque and hp and take out the core shift and it doesn't matter which heads you use so you can sell the se heads and recoup some of yourmoney for the porting. Best to add domed pistons and set the quench while you at it.

 

Mentor...thanks. I've had a half dozen SERT tunes on different configurations for the bike, (pipes, Heads, Cams) and each time it's been at least 6 hours for a quality tune, so I do know that I didn't get a good one. Thats what's making me want to at least pop for another tune to see what is there with this set-up for real, but I'm also not sure if getting high 90's in HP/TQ is going to satisfy me at this point
Always stayed away from above 10-1 for the detonation reasons, but seems that can be managed with proper tune. I do think I'll do a compression check to your other point.

 

That is where I need to be King. I'd actually have a lot to sell:

203 cams
VH True Duals with Ovals
SE Performance Heads with less than 2000 miles on them.

Sent you a PM btw.

 

Keep the SE heads and have them hand-ported. That's 8 - 10 hp you're leaving behind! You can get about $ 150.00 for used stock heads on Ebay.

 

I don't claim to be a motor guru or anything close,but I do have a similar build to yours.It consists of:
95 big bore
Flat top pistons
S/E perf heads
204 cams
PC III
and the performance robbing 2-2 pipes ( V/H Longshots)
mine dynos at 90 HP and 102 TQ
It would see to me that you should see more power out of your build especially on the TQ #'s

 

Mentor,
Would there be any value or significant gains in just replacing the Flat Tops with high comression pop ups with the current setup?

 

Kevin,

I know you know my opinion, but I will repeat only one thing on this topic. Use components that COMPLIMENT one another.

You can randomly change this and that until the end of time and you will likely NEVER be satisfied.

I would make one of two recommendations:

1) Turn what you have into a "known good" package by replacing the cams with S&S570's.
2) Sell all the random parts you have and buy a complete "pacakge" from a reputable source.

Also important to keep in mind is that rideability is much more important than who's got the bigdick dyno sheet.

As before, I'll be glad to discuss this with you if you'd like.