I read the section on CAM plate removal last night in my manual and it says; to remove the cam plate the four oil pump screws must be removed first?

My question is:

Can the oil pump stay with the cam plate for this removal? I don't have the alingment screws for the oil pump to reinstall it. If I have to remove the pump from the plate where can I get these alingment pins? Can I make them?

 

I did not have problems removing and reinstalling my cam plate while leaving the oil pump in place. Don't really know what they mean by alignment pins. I just used the bolts to align the oil pump before tightening the cam plate into place.

 

Yes you can leave the oil pump in. You will just need to replace the outer o-ring on the oil pump when you replace the two oil feed hole o-rings in the cam chest. You should also check that the gerotor stands proud per manual spec or you might have to replace the wavy washer, but that generally has not been a problem with these. To align the pump you will still need to do it irregardless of leaving the pump in or not. You can either do it with the bolts or use alignment pins. You can get them several places and many machinists are making them and selling them on other forums. To align the pump you rotate the rear wheel in gear as you are alternately tightening two out of the four bolts (can't remember off top of my head if it is 1 & 3 or 2 & 4 but the manaul will state which ones to alternately tighten when doing this.)

 

you are still going to have to allign the oil pump even if you pull it off with the cam plate as there is some variation when putting the cam plate back on. It is easier to do them separtaly. if you don't have the allignment pins (you could use a couple of stock bolts with some tapered ferrals on them) just spin the motor over while slowly tightening the four bolts that hold the oil pump. You can either spin it with the starter or have some one spin the rear tire (plugs out in 5th gear) Any harley shopshould have the allignment pins. this guy sells them ROADKING2000@CHARTER.NET

 

 

I have doen this many times, You don't need alignment pins, Better off with out them, Install pump with the 4 screws finger tight, Torque cam plate per manual, Then rotate engine with the pump screws finger tight, then 20 inch pounds in sequence 1-3-2-4, then rotate again, then torque to factory specs,

 

I don't know why you would be better off without using them...I use them and also spin the motor to make sure the pump is alligned properly. both ways work I just try and get the best of both worlds so far never had a problem.

 

Thanks guys...I'm still a couple of months out on this build. I have a second set of jugs that are being bored next weekend and am in the process of porting my second set of heads (very mild port).

Bought my SE203 cams last night, dealer had a 20% sale for everything in stock...just happened to have ONE set of 203's left.

Also gonna install V&H true duels