I recently purchased a carbureted 2002 Heritage. The prior owner admittely said he did not think the carb was jetted properly. He said the bike only gets 35 mpg. I got 30mpg with my first tank, but it was all around town and I was playing around with the throttle quite a bit.

I have been told these bikes are very cold blooded and many times you need to use the enrichment circuit for up to 10 minutes slowly reducing the amount, is that true?

Here are my concerns and questions: even when warm (outside temp in the 70's) the bike will sputter and pop occassionally at low rpms. It does NOT backfire (much or often) during decel. The bike does NOT have a lot of quick power (1st real Harley-I have only had a V-rod and lot's of sport bikes), but it may just be I am not used to American V-twins. The carb has been re-jetted the owner gave me some jets and the emulsion tube (needle jet holder), and another needle. The mixture screw cover has been removed and is accessible. The throttle response does not have any real bog or dead spots it is just not real clean and responsive. It also seems a little dead in the upper RPM range. Also, the idle is real low - I did adjust the idle up a bit and did acutally turn the mixture screw in about 1/4 to 1/2 turn (maybe not good), thinking that I should based on my altitude being 4500' and the bike was at sea level. I figured with the bad gas milage and high elevation a little leaning was in order.

Can you guys in the know give me the factory (out of the box) settings, and also let me know what the stage one jetting should be. The bike does have SE slip-ons, and the SE air cleaner.

Thanks a LOT guys!!

 

Anyone? Please!

 

At 4500 feet you should try a 180 or 185 main (stock is 190 but you do not need that big) 45 slow jet stock needle maybe shimmed .030 to .050 with small brass washer (may or may not need shimming) and lightly seat your air fuel screw and back out about 2 turns. My guess is you have a dyno jet kit installed. go back to original emulisiifier tube and original needle. if bike was set up for sea level you are probably way rich which is indicated by your 30mpg. You should get 40 plus even playing around. I am at 3300 feet and have a mild build ~90hp/100 tq and have 190 main, 46 slow, and n72s needle which is slightly richer than stock. I never get 30mpg no matter how fast or hard I play. I get in the 40's most of the time on a bagger.

 

Thanks, I will give that set up a try. I will also post back what the current setting (jet sizes) were.

 

I finally had a chance to open up the carb. I replaced the N72S needle with a N85P. I also replaced the 180 main with an unmarked main that appears to be a 175 or 170. I set the mixture screw at 2 1/2 turns out. It runs better, but still has a miss in the 1500-2000rpm range. This range is a guess, I do not have a tach on the bike.

I could not follow the advice given, because everything I have in the bag that I with the might doen't allow me much flexibility. I am going to buy more jets at my local favorite dirt bike shop, but may have to place an order from Sudco.

In the bag of parts there is a main jet holder with a 160 main in it (large head size main), and the following small head jets: 1-unmarked that is now in the bike, a 150 and a 160, a slide spring, a #29 drill bit and a sheet metal screw.

I looked on the dynojet site and the needle that show is a standard grooved/clip needle. Both my needles are not. I will have to shim to raise the needle.

I normally do not buy jet kits and buy my needles and jets from Sudco direct. Do I remember reading somewhere that Dynojet jets do NOT equal a standard Keihin jet? Aren't the dyno jet jets # larger than stock Keihin jet sizes. What I am trying to say is something like a dynojet 180 main = a stock Keihin 160.

Thanks for any add'l help.

 

I wanted to breathe life into this thread again in case someone like me buys a used bike with a stage one upgrade and a dynojet kit. OH, and I also have my SE pipes opened up by pushing the diffuser open about 1/2 between the stock opening and fully open.

I canned the Dynojet main jet holder(emulisifer tube) (jet nozzle) (you pick your terminology), and put the stock on back in. I was thinking correctly on Dynojet's main jets - they are not the same size as stock in either thread design or in numbering.

I also canned the N85P needle (very short). I put the N72S back in with two shims. I also went ahead and put in the 46 pilot (slow) jet due to my lean condition down low in the rpms. Also you can control the pilot a full size either way with the mixture screw (or darn close). I am 2 1/2 turns out on the mixture, for now. I went with the stock pilot 190.

I also changed all the fluids and spark plugs. I went with a standard 4164 Autolite spark plug. It had the correct Champion plugs in it, but gapped too close.

At idle and warmed up, it sounds MUCH better. It also revs better, but I had it on my cycle lift and only rode it from my shop (at my house) around to my attached garage, so I am not sure what the open road will yeild. But at a stand still it seems a whole lot better than before.

Thanks for the prior help guys!

 

Do not be afraid to to go to a 48 pilot.

 

Update:

Well, I would call my settings 'spot on', except twice when coasting down from 35 mph with no throttle it sputtered when I opened the throttle back up. It is not the same lean condition cough from idle I had before. It may be I have a little too much gas entering the cylinders via the 2 washers on the needle. Historically when jetting, I only change one setting at a time so I know which change did exactly what. However, this bike was SO far off, when I bought it, that I decided to go full boat. I might lose one of the washers on the needle when I get a chance to dig back into it.

In every other situation the bike ran flawlessly. No more gas and exhaust smell, and no more popping during accelleration or decelleration. It pulls very strong, I would say stronger than before.

Of course, all suggestions welcome.