Thanks Dalton. I'm kinda interested in going to a 107. I'm already planning on changing cams and was gonna wait to do a 103 but now........just too many options.

 

just be sure about what YOU want,and your riding style.weve done motors for guys that wanted "the most HP,& fastest it could be"then wernt happy when the couldnt ride it all day in 95 degrees or their gas milage went down,beleave me its happen more than once with the fuel milage!!(what did they think??!!)if your thinking about going with stroker wheels,i`de go 124",(F/w`s & cyl. kit will be same $$ as smaller stuff)and you could build it on the conservitive side,still retain the rideability and still make the power of a smaller motor,and if you want ***** out,just make sure you relalize the limitations the motor will have,any way you go,its going to be fairly expensive,so like i said,make sure you know what your looking for,and do the build once.
kirby
vee twin racing

 

I want it all. Not really just looking for a lot of tq on bottom 2k-5k rpm or so.
Need to compensate for my size. 6'2 270lb Not interested in higher rpms as I never ride like that. I ride every day(no car) so I need reliability. I know I need to do more than just cams right now but I have budget constraints.(youngest daughter will start college in less than a year) Thanks to all that share info and ideas here. I know I should do a 103 or a 107 build but......family is always first.

 

you have the best year to mod -- no TBW issues -- check around and get something that suits your riding style -- I wanted something that would get the front wheel off the ground and do rolling burn outs -- the 107 fits the need. Now I want to go CONTROLLED Street racing (club stuff) and still be able to ride it to Daytona/Panama City so next year 120/124 is the target--listen to the guys here they know there chit--do it once do it right

 

see this is what i mean about being SURE, "you want it all",if your talking stock like rideabilty,reliability and max HP & torque.it aint going to happen.dont want low end torque or high rpm power either(??)dosnt leave much,just a small midrange power band?everything is going to leave compromises,kinda hard to "have it all"
kirby
vee twin racing

 

Scott did a pretty conservative build for me on my TC88, as I was concerned with the heat/humidity in eastern nc summer. I wanted a well mannered street bike (not a race bike) that I could tour on with my wife. I also wanted to be in triple digits hp/tq.
I took it as big as I could go without opening the cases(98") kept the compression fairly low (10.2:1) and used a bolt in cam (woods 6) All by his recommendation based on my location/riding style/expectations. I ended up with 109 hp and 109tq SAE. Makes 100ftlbs of tq from 2500rpm to 5800rpm. And for a very good dollar to hp/tq gained ratio. However, now I find myself wanting more, and at this point it will cost more to get more. Sending that ratio plummeting. So my advice is to do it like your going to do it once. The more you tear the motor down the more expensive it gets

 

I could live with those #'s for a year or two.

 

i get about 40-43 mpg withh my bike when cruising...i read a lot of crap about builds not going to give you this or that.. a good solid build with quality parts will superceed any stuff just thrown together.
Danny ,Phil ,Dalton and my bike are proof that quality parts tuned correctly will produce and give you miles of reliability and dependability

dont forget one thing any one can sell you parts the most imporant factor of the build is the tune. if you do not get the tune right i dont care who you broufght the parts from.
before i would look for parts do somee research and locate a good tuner first then decide what parts you want for your build.
aslo...
smaller cubes will produce most of their power at upper rpm range.
bigger cubes you can tailor the power where you want it.
with a bagger running with a passanger loaded down and the weight of passanger, rider, luggage and bike you are talking 1500- 2000 lbs. you want most of your power in the lower rpm range from idle to 4500 rpm.
pick your parts wisely

 

My advice cannont superscede what's already been said....George, Dalton, and Ryan all have powerful, reliable builds. I'll share with you my experience dealing with multiple builds on the same bike. I started with a stock 96", and thought I'd be happy with a SE Stage II build....wasn't the case, so I started changing things. I'll list:

1st build: SE Stage II- 103" pistons, SE 255 cams, Big Radius, No headwork, PCIII...82/102
2nd build: Added Baisley Heads, Swapped to TW6G-7 cams, Swapped to FatCat, PCIII...98/109
3rd build: Swapped to TMan 590 cams, added HPI 55mm t/b, SE 4.89 injectors, PCIII...107/107 (and I get 45-47 mpg)

Starting tear down tomorrow to make it a 113"....and I'm DONE!

I say all of this for this reason- Don't cheap out and "only" do something to save a few $$$, because it'll cause you more in the long run. If I had it to do all over again, I'd have just gone to a 107" from the beginning, and been done.

 

ryanl,

I noticed you live in North Carolina.
How did you get your build done via Hillside? Did you ship your cases? Did he ship you a kit that you had someone else install near you? I am still considering the logistics of this myself.

Thanks again,

Tom
Thanks for the advice, I agree on only doing it once.