Just looked at the pics and I see that there is very little stock stuff left on it.
Someone put a ton of money in that scooter.
That's a custom gas tank and speedo as well as the back fender just for starters.
The foward controls,handlebars etc.I'd say you got a fair deal even if seems a bit high for the year and model.
Y2K[sm=icon_rock.gif]

 

Y2K covered a lot of good stuff on your bike. Here's a little more that applies to Shovel area stuff, based on things Y2K pointed out:

Y2K quote - "The exhaust headers on all shovelheads are forever coming loose.
There is a 3 bolt flange kit that requires removing the heads and some welding but it is the best fix I know of.
Be carfull tightening your stock flange bolts ,they like to strip out the threads in the head."

His suggestion is definitely the best fix. But since it requires a tear down to do, here's something that'll work before that time happens:
Get a stainless bolt too long to tighten up in the hole with the pipes in place. It's gotta be long enough to run a stainless nut and lock washer up near the head. You can use a socket head bolt, if you want, for better looks.
With the nut and washer run up near the bolt head, slather some nickel based anti-seize made for stainless steel on the threads. Install your exhaust pipe. Run the bolt into the head until it bottoms out in the hole. If your threads are in good shape you should be able to do this with your hand. You just want the bolt bottomed out in the hole without putting any stress on the threads.
Put a dollop of high temp thread locker on the exposed threads. Run the nut and lock washer down on the threads and torque to spec. You’re done!
The nickel anti-seize will keep the bolt and head threads from galling. The high temp thread locker will keep it snugged tight.
This is how I used to do the exhaust on my Shovel and I never had it loosen on me.

Y2K quote - "Check the drive chain sprocket on the rear wheel for wear.If it's sharp on the ends it's worn out and needs to be replaced along with a new chain as a set.I would highly recomend getting an o-ring chain if you get a new one.You may have noticed that the front drive(trans) sprocket is behind the clutch so replacing it isn't an option unless you have to.That will require a couple of special tools and carefully following the manual.To replace the chain simply hook the new one to the old one and pull it through."

Definitely go for a good o-ring chain. Rule of thumb is 2 chains for a set of sprockets. Keep the chain adjusted correctly. When it is stretched beyond the limits specified in the manual, replace it. Running too long on a worn out chain will eat the sprocket pronto. Rear sprocket is easy to replace, but the front is a pain. But not replacing it when it is worn will eat your new chain. Plus if you don't check the front sprocket tightness you'll cause wear on the shaft and that can be expensive to replace. Also, keeping it tight helps prevent the common oil leak out of the tranny in that area.

Looking at the pictures on eBay shows a fine looking machine! Enjoy!

 

Looked at the pictures as well, that's a sharp bike. Only thing I would change(if it was my bike), would be the headlight. A little bigger headlight would look good on that bike. A 5 1/2 " adjure or headwinds longer profile maybe even a 7". Fine looking ride, would'nt mind having it myself.


John TN