So I broke an exhaust stud over the weekend. Which will have to be machined out.

I was thinking since the head has to come off anyway, why not do a performance upgrade at the same time. If I get heads done, then a big-bore is in order.

So I'm looking very seriously at a 107 build from GMR. Using the Andrews 55 cam.
Or maybe an Headquarters kit, but the GMR guy was great to talk to over the phone. Very knowledgeable and obviously enthusiastic about what he's doing.

Bike and Riding style description:
Bike is an '09 Fat Bob. So slightly heavier than other Dynas, but not much.
Usually I ride alone, and I'm a pretty light guy.

I don't mind shifting down to pass someone on the highway, but I do want to be able to cruise comfortably at 55 on the highway still.

I also don't want alot of valvetrain noise. So I think that means the Woods cams are out.

Basically I want the power to start building at around 2600rpm, and build until redline at 6200 rpm.

I already have a Fat Cat and a TTS Mastertune tuner.

We seem to only get 91 octane around Minnesota. Though there is a couple of places that sell straight gasoline with no ethanol near me.



So does that sound like a good cam for me, the Andrews 55?
Or should I look at the 67?
Other cam options?
I was also considering the Headquarters HQ107 kit with the HQ600 cam. Though that's $700 more expensive for just the parts.





Finally Part of me wants to, if I'm tearing down the motor anyway, go full monty up to 124 cubic inches. It'd be a rocket to have a full 124 in a Dyna.
Main question about that is: How much more cost would i have to go that route? To do it right, Timken, welded crank, stuff like that.

Thanks?

 

Oh, and roller rockers. What are the benefits? Ability to run a higher lift cam?

Are they inherently quieter for a certain lift profile?

Just blinging, what?

 

A very strong 107", complete with t/body, injectors, roller rocker arms, etc, etc, that'll show you 120/120 plus, is about 1/2 of what a 124" with all the appropriate pieces/parts needed.
The shear torque delivery of a well built 124", is naturally much more thrilling.
The roller rockers are to keep friction from the valve stem in the higher lift applications.
Scott

 

And that's with what kinda cams?
Seems like there are so many cam choices it's confusing.
Would an Andrews 55 be a good fit for a light Dyna?
Andrews 67 looks like a hotter cam, but is it too hot for street use?
How do those compare to the Headquraters 600 cams?

 

Andrews makes great cams, but alot of the other venders build on them and make some really great tailored cams.

I have the HQ .575s not too noisy but there was more mechanical noise with the heavier valve springs. they have a great power band, I dont use roller rockers on the build, no issues so far.

Recently, i picked up some Tman cams to try, heard nothing but good from them.

I think a 107 would be all i would ever want in a Dyna, my 95 runs great, but i want just a scratch more.

T-man would be worth talking to as well.

 

If you've already spoken to Steve @ GMR, and explained what you want/ expect out of the build, the take his recommendations. I don't know about the Andrews 55 or 67, but the 54 seems to be well liked. Steve has turned out quite a few 107" builds with Stage III heads and the 54 cam.

 

Either a Wood 408, or a 9B.
The 408 will damn near flatline 120 ft/lbs, where the 9B may be a tick softer coming up to torque peak in a 107, will charge out a bigger hp number.
Mid 120's to be expected with the 9B.
Scott

 

If you are talking 107 kits, don't leave out Axtell; give Chaz a call. Agree on TMan cams but if you go Andrews and don't mind shifting, the 67 would be my choice.

Before you get too far into your plan, build it on paper and figure out how much you will spend compared to bolting in one of the new 120R engines. Check out the 12R thread in this section of the forum.\; it's a viable option for someone in your situation and one, IMHO, worth consideration.

 

The SE120R?

Not going to really be available for a few months. Not even if I order one right this minute, which really means next year's riding season.

Looks good on paper, but no bugs have been worked out. Also requires quite a few extra bits to make it work.

Looks like around $6500 or so, then do the install myself.

Also has there been an actual dyno run of the motor yet? Or just the Screaming Eagle catalog one done with a non-production exhaust. Who can really say how well massaged that particular example is.

I dunno, call me skeptical of the quality of screaming eagle components.

It'd be great if it worked as well as a tuner built setup straight outta the box. Somehow I doubt that's going to happen though. There is going to be a learning curve of broken motors. And I really do not want to be a guinea pig for it.

I may be proven wrong and kicking myself in the *** for not going for it. But then again I've never been an early adopter of changes.

 

It is available, depends on dealer; some are installed and running and results are trickling in.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6Dmz-hwBak

We all bitch about the MoCo never thinking outside the box and when they do, the naysayers come out. This engine has Vance and Hines finger prints all over it and they must have convinced the MoCo brass to make the move. The V&H guys have just gotten tired of watching S&S and Jims sell their engines and have convinced the MoCo brass that they can to it better and cheaper.

BTW, MSRP is $5495 for the A configuration and $5795 for the B configuration and, if discount dealers like Zanotti follow true to form, that price may be discounted. There is no way you can beat the HP/$$ value with an aftermarket build. I have built a few and by the time you build it on paper, figure out who is going to do the machine work, send the parts out for machine work, wait for the parts to return, assemble and wait for the little nit noid stuff that you forgot to order or that you broke or lost during the teardown or reassembly, you are looking at months to build a 107", or bigger engine. The ones I have built have been down to the lower unit as I wouldn't run a big inch motor without having the crank work done, so a top end build will surely go faster. Let's start marking time on your build now and see how long it takes to get her up and running.

Not to mention Murphy's law; how many posts on this and other forums have you read where the OP just finished a build and had problems. How many broken dealer and DIY builds have you read about here and on other forums.

Not to say that you can't have problems with a crate engine but you must admit that once you get your hands on the engine, you could R/R engines and fire the new one up in two weekends; some of us could get it done in one.

What is a "tuner built setup straight out of the box"; not sure what the means. No other dyno runs that I know of but if this engine only makes 120/120, it will be a success.

I agree that there is not much information out there and I certainly don't blame you for not wanting to be a beta tester but if it breaks, from what I understand, if the dealer does the install, that dealer will replace the engine.

I just thought it worth metioning as, all things being equal, it is a viable option for someone considering a big inch build at a very reasonable price, particularly if you are doing the install. Understand your reluctance though but after building a few, I would jump on this in a hearbeat if I were in your shoes.