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Starter or Battery??

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Old 10-03-2010, 03:45 PM
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Default Starter or Battery??

I have an 03 Heritage (Carb) with 73k miles....Never any issues. Replaced the orig battery last summer, got over 50k and 5+ yrs on the orig battery...replaced it with a HD battery.

I never have had to crank on it, 99.9% of the time it fires rite up, like it it was the 1st kick if it was a kick start. Over the past month or so every so often when I start it the starter will engage, begin to turn the motor over, but then seems to disengage and I hear almost a grinding sound. Figgered the starter was gettin weak. (Cuz I put a new battery in last summer). Also seems to turn over slow...kinda lugs on a compression stroke.

Just today I went to start it and it turned over real slow, would not start. After a few tries all I could get was a rapid clicking sound, like the battery was dead. I jumped it and it fired rite up.

Could a weak starter quickly drain a good battery?? Hate to chg. the battery if the starter is the prob. or visa versa.
 
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Old 10-03-2010, 03:58 PM
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If the battery is fairly new, my guess would be the stator or voltage regulator not charging your battery. Don't think It's the starter.
 
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Old 10-03-2010, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by tombeving
If the battery is fairly new, my guess would be the stator or voltage regulator not charging your battery. Don't think It's the starter.
If it was not charging I would not have made it back home, over 200 miles from Myrtle today after needing to jump it this morning. Headlight looks bright when idling.

I'm gonna pull the battery here in a bit & get it checked tomorrow. If that is good I'll have to take it to a shop & have em check the charging system. Last resort R & R the starter is what I'm thinkin.
 
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Old 10-03-2010, 04:48 PM
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Don`t condemn the starter...

After all, when you jump started it, it worked fine.

It sounds like a weak battery, bad connection, or weak/failed charging system.

Just because a battery is fairly new does not mean it is good. I replaced an AGM type battery in my other bike (`82 Honda) last summer, and it failed this spring after a few weeks of use.

Also, because you were able to ride 200 miles after a jump start does not mean you can let the charging system off the hook...make sure it is working properly.

Make sure all the electrical connections are clean and secure.
 

Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; 10-03-2010 at 05:00 PM.
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Old 10-03-2010, 05:16 PM
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Was on a trip with a friend of mine. Before we started he replaced his battery. Three days into the ride, we stop for gas and his bike barely turns over and won't start. Jump started his bike and down the road we go. Next gas stop same thing happens. Disconnected his stereo and lights and jump started his bike. The bike started fine after that. When we got home, I checked everything out and found that the stator was only putting out 24 volts AC @2500 RPMs instead of 42 volt. The stator was able to replace the current needed to start the bike and keep it running, but not enough to replace the current used to run all the accessories.
 
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Old 10-03-2010, 05:30 PM
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Default Check battery

Snug the battery terminals. Was working on my bike about a year ago and pulled battery. Few months ago though the battery was going bad. When I pulled the seat I discovered terminal not loose but not tight either. Roads are pretty rough around here and the vibration made them get loose. Not sure why you would worry about charging battery. I clip the small charger on ever chance I get. However I do a lot of 5-10 mile runs.
 
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Old 10-03-2010, 06:27 PM
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An update.....

After sitting in the garage for a couple hrs. I went out and started it 3-4 times. Once it started I immediately shut it down & restarted it. After the 3rd or 4th time the starter would engage but made a clicking sound....like the battery was weak/dead.

I pulled the battery, the terminals were tight & clean. Put it on a charger, the gage on the charger says it's takin the full 10 amps my lil charger can put out. So the battery is either not holdin a charge or the charging system is not puttin out enough juice to keep the bike running, operate the lites and charge the battery too.

Gonna see if the gage drops to zero on the charger and if it does I'll assume the charging system is fuked and will need to get it checked out. If it does not drop to zero I'll put a new battery in it and keep my fingers crossed!
 
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Old 10-03-2010, 06:57 PM
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Default $20. DC volt meter

Its very easy to check if its charging yourself with a $20 DC meter. AutoZone will do a load test for free on you battery if you carry it in. Be sure its fully charged with your charger (good 12-16 hour charge with a charger that monitors and shuts down) before checking battery if you go that route. With a fully charged battery in the bike after it set about a couple hours after charging it will read about 12.6 Volts. Start the bike and rev it to about 2000-2500 and it will read above 15 volts. Since I have my trickle charger wires with the plug attached I can also tell pretty good condition of battery. With meter hooked to battery voltage should not drop below 10.5 volts when cranking with a fully charged battery. Also remember if battery is showing only 11.9 volts at rest it is only 50% charged and in this condition is putting a serious load on starter. Remember the lower the voltage the more amperage the devices draws.
12.6 full charged
12.1 75% charged
11.9 50%
11.8 25%
 
  #9  
Old 10-04-2010, 12:39 AM
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Have a real close look at the battery connections for any sign of corrosion and have a even closer look at the grounds.
 
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