Yeah i'm thinking this might be a winter mod, since I already have a project to work on with my neighbor (his chopper hasn't run in like 3-4 years and we can't figure out why), and i just don't want to start working on my bike while the riding weather is good..

I was thinking about getting the $110 S&S adjustable pushrods, and seeing who has the best prices on the cams.. aside from the feeler gauge (maybe a buddy of mine has one)..i have all the tools i need already, so that's good.. hmmmm this forum is going to kill me, and my wallet...

but thanks for all the input guys, this really seems like a much more "fun" mod than spending the money on a 103 or a 106" kit, especially since fuel mileage is important to me because i generally go for long (400+ mile) rides

 

A cam upgrade is not a difficult operation and if you are a DIY kinda guy, it's a good place to start wrenching on your bike. You need to get the service manual for yoru bike; don't even think about tackling the project without the SM.

A lot of folks will tell you that you must buy special tools for this operation but not so. You don't need the inner cam bearing removal/install tool. You can remove the inner cam bearings with a blind hole puller from AutoZone provided that they have the right size collet size. Auto Zones in my area will loan the tool out for a refundable deposit when the tool is returned undamaged. You can install the new inner cam bearings using one of your old cams tap them in. You don't need the cam gear locking tool to loosen/fasten the pinion gear and rear cam bolts; just put the trand if 1st gear and apply full pressure on the rear brake pedal. Somo I know use a ratcheting tie down to hold the pressure on the rear brake while they loosen/fasten the bolts. I would spend the $17.50 (Georges Garage) for the oil pump alignment pins; the can also be used to align the rocker boxes (you won't have to do that but just pointing out the pins have multiple uses).

Another note on the inner cam bearing. Your mileage doesn't have anything to do with this upgrrade. The OEM bearings are a caged bearing wtih fewer rollers and, while it is probably suitable for the low rpm application of the Harley Vtwin, as long as your have the cam chest open you should pull the OEM bearings and install Torrington B168s which are full compliment bearing with more rollers. In reality, probalby over kill for the application but they are cheap and eliminate the potential for failure.

As for the pushrods, it's simply a matter of labor verses cash. You either spend the extra time, say 30-45 minutes, to remove the tank, rocker covers and loosen the rocker arms supports and pull the pushrods from the top, or you get your hands on some big *** bolt cutters and cut your stock pushrods and spend the $$ for a set of adjustables. If you go the adjustable route, the SE Tapered Quick Install units are nice(PN18404-08 $136 from Zanottis/$165 from your local dealer); the kit is complete with pushrods, longer lower tube, clips and orings.

As for a cam only upgrade for a Stage I 96; I don't drink the Woods 555 coolaid. IMHO, there are several cams that are just as good, or better, for this application; the Andrews 37 or 48 are two; the SE204 is another.

You have the PCV, not my choice, but will do the job, so a good tune to top it all off makes all the difference.

I encourage you to take on the project yourself. I have walked several guys through it via email and there is plenty of help on this forum.

 

Thanks for the input.. service manual is my holy grail, i really enjoy the color-coded electrical diagrams in the back, makes for good reading.. this is pretty much how far i've stripped down my bike this past winter:


The tank is pretty much off, its just laying there, and there's a lot of rags and do dads and knickknacks laying around..so i'm not one who's afraid of jumping into a project and ripping it all apart..

So do you think that if i were to remove the tank and the rocker box covers (oooh good excuse to get them powder coated black..hmm...) and pull the push rods from the top, that the stock ones could be reused?

I'm having trouble finding some dyno sheets for the Andrews cams (just for reference), and from what I have found it seems like the Woods make better numbers in both HP and Torque.. even though they're apparently $100 more expensive.. a lot of people seem to mention the Andrews 54's too, but truth be told I really don't understand the difference between any of them.. lift and crank and all this sort of stuff.. so this is a learning experience right now, and another reason why I would do my research now and save this for a winter mod

ps.. my buddy next door has the giant garage with the lifts and every tool under the sun, I don't have a garage, so the dining room is where I do my work in the winter fun times

 

Your motorcycle shouldn't have lost mileage doing the SE upgrade if tuned properly and you aren't blipping the throttle to make the noise (I know that's hard to avoid). Motor work, when done correctly, shouldn't change the mileage too much either. In fact, some of our customers see an increase since the motorcycle isn't working as hard to pull hills, etc. This is more common in FL's than in Dynas. I would recommend a Screamin' Eagle Stage III or IV 103 Race Kit with some extra goodies personally. We built a Softail Custom in house using SE parts and had 117 hp at the rear wheel and the valve train is quiet as a kitten. Be careful how steep of a ramp you choose on the cam or you get a very loud valve train.

 

I love the bike torn up in the dining room. Reminds me of my younger days.

Yeah, cams are as much art as science. I'm going with the Andrews 54. I could go on about fast ramps and all that, and a lot of it can be roughly guessed at by published numbers, but without an actual graph, it's still nothing more than a somewhat educated guess.

I'm pretty sure I'll be happy with it, and that's all that matters. I don't really care much about dyno sheets and all that. I only care about how I like it when I'm done. I won't be racing or participating in any dyno "shootouts". I'll just be enjoyin' the ride.

 

If the selected cam has the same base circle as your stock cams; the OEM pushrods will work fine.

 

Basically the same story. 42-43 mpg from my 95", but I'm only making 98 tq/92 hp.
When I was running just the cam with a Stage 1 & Big Shots Staggered pipes, 36 mpg.

 

I was surfing around today and found some good articles at Hemrick Performance.

Here's one on tq/hp vs mpg: http://hemrickperformance.com/mpg.aspx

A nice, simple explanation.

 

I did a Stage 1 with a FuelMoto PCV, their slipons and a K&N air filter. On a trip, I was averaging 41-42 MPG. That was with a canned map. I recently had the FM 107 installed and upgraded to the Autotune and picked up a good 5 MPG's. Last tank on a short trip was 47.3 MPG. (I was running one up with the cruise set on 70 MPH) Needless to say, I'm tickled to death that I'm getting such good mileage. Obviously, it's all in the tune.

 

Yes, closed loop with wide-band sensors is a huge step into the 21st century, but that extra 107" low end torque is also a huge help.

Bigger engine, bigger cam, good tune, same gears and speeds, better mileage! Took HD about 100 years to figure it out, then the independent mechanics, racers, and tuners immediately improved upon it. Gotta love it!