Hi Guys,

Well I'm thinking about rebuilding the top end of my bike this winter (2002 Road King Classic). I have so much blow-by coming out of my air cleaner, it's getting ridiculous.

I've been reading on these forums for a long time now and have a couple final build ideas I'm considering. One is the 114" kit from Revolution Performance.

I know they had some bad press a couple years ago with their cylinder plating methods but I think things of cleared up. Their history isn't why I'm posting this thread.

I was wondering if anyone has done this build and what their impressions are of it? I could stick to a more simple big bore kit with some head work but this massive cubic inch interests me and having the cases bored out isn't as expensive or as much work as I originally thought.

Is it worth going to a 114" engine or is a Hillside Hot 98" kit good enough?

Right now I have the SE Stage I kit, Andrews TW21 cams, new SE cam plate with hyd tensioners, new lifters and pushrods, and PCIII. I want to stick with the current cam as well. Maybe that is a bad decision on a big cubic inch build like this.

Your thoughts?

 

With a 114" kit you will need to redo your bottom end as well.

Drew

 

Hi Dr. V-Twin,

According to Rev Perf I do not need to mod my bottom end. Just case boring. This is quoted from their site:

"Up to a full 4.250" bore in your OEM or aftermarket cases! The only way we can achieve this is through the use of our proprietary aerospace alloy one piece cylinders and in-house cylinder plating processes. Currently we offer the 99-Up TC 107" kit, the 114" kit for use with your stock crank assembly, the 124" upgrade kit for the 103 Screaming Eagle engines, and the massive 131" assembly for the customer with a BIG appetite for torque. All of these kits were real world beta tested for a full year to insure that we delivered the very best in quality and reliability to our customers. As with all other Revolution Cylinder kits these come complete with cylinders, our new Revolution Performance pistons, wrist pins, circlips and gaskets."

 

You have to split/disassemble the case to have it bored, so you're talking about a bottom end rebuild regardless of what modifications you make or don't make.

If it has a lot of miles on it, you should be looking at rebuilding the bottom end before building up the top end anyway. Just re-ringing a stock top end is one thing, but doing a performance top end build on an old tired bottom end is just asking for trouble. It would suck to have rod/crank bearing failure a few months after doing a build.

Increased torque/HP = increased load on the bottom end.

 

Not putting words in Drew's mouth but I think he was suggesting that a 114" build will make enough TQ/HP that you should consider truing, balancing and welding the OEM crank.

I have been down the aftermarket BB kit road (107") and won't go there again. Have you considered an all bore 104" build using the H-D 4.060" cylinders and a set of CP pistons? The MoCo has the cylinder/piston dynamic figured out; no drama. I have taken down OEM top ends, 88" and 96" with 25K and more miles and the hone hatchmarks and the piston skirt coating is like new; no scuffing or scratching. Can't say the same for the aftermarket; Rev Performance and Axtell have both had issues.

You still need the cases bored and should address the crank while you have the bottom end pulled apart. Before you are done, you will have at least $3k in the project, probably closer to $4K. Which begs the question, why not a 120R crate motor? Available from some discount dealers for about $4.6K, plus shipping. A 120R kit would be even better but not available for early touring models yet, just softails.

The durability of the 120R crank is a much debated issue but a local builder has installed and tuned a few and the owners are happy and, so far, have no issues. The crank is the SE Pro Stroker crank with tighter pin fit tolerance but not welded.

IMHO, either of the above plans is better than an aftermarket build.

 

Will the 120r fit in the older softail frames? If it would I'd put in my 05 flstn. I also have baker 6 speed , would that work with it?

 

Thanks for the input DJL. I'll consider your options.

My bike has 30,000 miles on it. I'm guessing the bottom end should be okay. The more input I get from other builders suggests I stay away from the big bore with case boring.

I appreciate the input.

 

We put the limit on case boring to the spigot bore diameters of both Axtell, and S&S cylinders.
The lack of clamping load over the larger area has a tendency to have the cylinder base gaskets "weeping", at least from we've seen.

A 107"er, or even a 98" combination can really put a BIG grin on your face.
Scott

 

The 02 bottom end is a lot stronger than the newer bottom ends, and other than the case boring, you should be able to build an all bore 104 or even bigger without any other work needed. However, it's still a big job to get the cases out and split. If you go that way, and are rebuilding the whole motor anyway, it's easiest to take the top end apart while the motor is still in the bike, then take the primary apart, and then get the bottom end out. The Timken bottom end requires a hydraulic press to get the flywheels in and out, that's beyond the reach of most home mechanics. (I tried to use an arbor press at one time, no way).

The 98er that Scott mentioned is your best low bucks shot for more hp. That is the biggest you can go without case boring, and you can build it pretty much any way you want, lower compression touring motor, or high compression hot rod. Talk to Scott, he'll get you started in the right direction. Fuel Moto is also selling 98" upgrade packages that are pretty basic bolt-on kits.

 

Thanks Scott and Boogaludude. I've made my mind up and I'm going to go with the Hillside 98" kit. I've already started dismantling the bike. Tank is off. Now the fun begins.