Engine modification break in??
#1
#2
I think you're referring to this which I copied off another site: Breaking in your motor is vital to the life of your engine. Axtell’s recommended method of break-in is to heat cycle the motor. Start the motor (with plenty of air blowing over the motor to dissipate heat) and allow it to run for thirty seconds. Allow the motor to completely cool to room temperature.Once cooled, start the motor again and allow it to run for sixty seconds followed by a complete cool down. Repeat this process, adding thirty seconds each time until you have reached four minutes.Now the vital break-in is done. However, over the course of the next thousand miles, the internal components are still familiarizing themselves with one another, so take special care during that time.Keep your engine under 3500 RPM’s for the first 300 miles, and less than 4000 RPM’s for the first 1000 miles. Do not put a large load on the engine and be careful not to “lug” the engine during the 1000-mile break in period. This pretty much parallels what the Moco tells you when you buy a new bike in order to break in the engine,aside from the initial warm-up/fanning aspect.
Then there is a "plan B" which you'll find here: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Then there is a "plan B" which you'll find here: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Last edited by roadkingharry; 11-23-2012 at 06:53 AM.
#3
#4
Good info to have. I'll be needing this in a few weeks after installing FM 107 kit for initial start up. Thanks.
I think you're referring to this which I copied off another site: Breaking in your motor is vital to the life of your engine. Axtell’s recommended method of break-in is to heat cycle the motor. Start the motor (with plenty of air blowing over the motor to dissipate heat) and allow it to run for thirty seconds. Allow the motor to completely cool to room temperature.Once cooled, start the motor again and allow it to run for sixty seconds followed by a complete cool down. Repeat this process, adding thirty seconds each time until you have reached four minutes.Now the vital break-in is done. However, over the course of the next thousand miles, the internal components are still familiarizing themselves with one another, so take special care during that time.Keep your engine under 3500 RPM’s for the first 300 miles, and less than 4000 RPM’s for the first 1000 miles. Do not put a large load on the engine and be careful not to “lug” the engine during the 1000-mile break in period. This pretty much parallels what the Moco tells you when you buy a new bike in order to break in the engine,aside from the initial warm-up/fanning aspect.
Then there is a "plan B" which you'll find here: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Then there is a "plan B" which you'll find here: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
#5
We use the 30 second time frame, on the intial fire-off, then we bring the cylinder temp to 150*, twice, cooling in between, all while a fan is running, on the primary side of the bike.
At that point once cooled, we ride the bike in a "normal" fashion, weather permitting, or roll it around on the Dynojet 5-6 miles, slowly bringing the rpms up to about 3500 rpms, then letting off on the throttle, and back up, then back down, etc. Not a joy ride, but rather a specific method to settle the engine.
Let it cool, once again, then we go for a 12-13 mile ride at the same rpms, doing the same procedure.
Unless the client is looking for an initial tune, and the bike has civil manners, we will release the bike to the client at that point.
This has worked here, for us, and our clients for over 2 1/2 decades.
Scott
At that point once cooled, we ride the bike in a "normal" fashion, weather permitting, or roll it around on the Dynojet 5-6 miles, slowly bringing the rpms up to about 3500 rpms, then letting off on the throttle, and back up, then back down, etc. Not a joy ride, but rather a specific method to settle the engine.
Let it cool, once again, then we go for a 12-13 mile ride at the same rpms, doing the same procedure.
Unless the client is looking for an initial tune, and the bike has civil manners, we will release the bike to the client at that point.
This has worked here, for us, and our clients for over 2 1/2 decades.
Scott
__________________
HILLSIDE MOTORCYCLE & MACHINE, INC.
HARLEY-DAVIDSON SPEED & SERVICE CENTER
5225 SOUTH MAIN ST., MUNNSVILLE, N.Y. 13409
Sales/Support 315-495-6650
www.hillsidecycle.com
Walk-in Retail Showroom
Complete H-D Machine Shop
Case & cylinder boring
Complete Cylinder Head Shop
High-Performance Engine Kits
Crank Rebuilding
Direct Link & PowerVision Tuning
Goodson HD Tooling Manufacturer
Maxton Mile World Record
4500 sq ft. facility
OVER 35 YEARS OF H-D ENGINE BUILDING.
See us on Facebook.
HILLSIDE MOTORCYCLE & MACHINE, INC.
HARLEY-DAVIDSON SPEED & SERVICE CENTER
5225 SOUTH MAIN ST., MUNNSVILLE, N.Y. 13409
Sales/Support 315-495-6650
www.hillsidecycle.com
Walk-in Retail Showroom
Complete H-D Machine Shop
Case & cylinder boring
Complete Cylinder Head Shop
High-Performance Engine Kits
Crank Rebuilding
Direct Link & PowerVision Tuning
Goodson HD Tooling Manufacturer
Maxton Mile World Record
4500 sq ft. facility
OVER 35 YEARS OF H-D ENGINE BUILDING.
See us on Facebook.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Here is a set of instructions given to me recently after my rebuild.
The builder has a great reputation in these parts for quality work. This is his idea... Works for me !!!
You can use synthetic during the break-in period (Mobile 1 - 20/50) or similar
-------------------------
1) Start engine, idle only until cylinders warm up. Once temperature is reached, shut off and allow engine to completely cool down. (You can use fans to speed up this process) - (Check for leaks)
2) Start engine, blip throttle constantly during warm up. (Do not go higher than 1500 rpm). Once temperature is reached, shut off and allow engine to completely cool down. (You can use fans to speed up this process) - (Check for leaks)
3) Repeat step 2. - (Check for leaks)
4) Repeat step 2. - (Check for leaks)
5) Repeat step 2. - (Check for leaks)
-------------------------
Your engine components, (Rings, valves) should be completely seated at this point.- (Check for leaks)
Ride moderately, avoid high rpms, until first oil & filter change (@ 500 miles) - (Check for leaks)
The builder has a great reputation in these parts for quality work. This is his idea... Works for me !!!
You can use synthetic during the break-in period (Mobile 1 - 20/50) or similar
-------------------------
1) Start engine, idle only until cylinders warm up. Once temperature is reached, shut off and allow engine to completely cool down. (You can use fans to speed up this process) - (Check for leaks)
2) Start engine, blip throttle constantly during warm up. (Do not go higher than 1500 rpm). Once temperature is reached, shut off and allow engine to completely cool down. (You can use fans to speed up this process) - (Check for leaks)
3) Repeat step 2. - (Check for leaks)
4) Repeat step 2. - (Check for leaks)
5) Repeat step 2. - (Check for leaks)
-------------------------
Your engine components, (Rings, valves) should be completely seated at this point.- (Check for leaks)
Ride moderately, avoid high rpms, until first oil & filter change (@ 500 miles) - (Check for leaks)
Last edited by Araba Shriner; 01-22-2013 at 07:31 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mmcbeat
The General Motorcycle Forum
76
03-07-2013 08:05 PM