Springer Frontend Service
#1
01-20-2016, 05:32 PM
Springer Frontend Service
TECH TIP
SPRINGER FRONT SUSPENSION
KEYWORDS AND KEY PHRASES
frontend - fallaway - rocker - wobble - shimmy - adjustment - steering - squeaks - chirps - bearings - fork removal
front axle spacers - rebound springs - brake link bolt - fender hang
APPLICABLE YEAR/MODEL
1997-2003 Heritage Springer
(See following post for more info)
Additional info from HD J-sheet for springer fork installation.
http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_us...ts/-j00588.pdf
Springer service video
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2n7ytifd2g...rvice.m4v?dl=0
SPECIALTY TOOLS REQUIRED
Tools required depend on the level of servicing. Refer to the text and service manual.
rubber strap wrench (axle caps)
1 1/2" crowfoot wrench (rocker jam nuts)
fallaway adjusting tool - fabricate (see text and figures) or purchase
inch-pound torque wrench
foot-pound torque wrench
spring compressor tool
steering head upper bearing remover
steering head lower bearing installer - fabricate
brake bleeding tool/method such as MityVac
1. TECHNICAL AREAS ADDRESSED
1.1 - The Springer front end requires three adjustments to maintain stability and ride quality. Those three adjustments are steering fall away, rocker drag, and rebound spring tension. This is a supplement to the service manual procedures but some service manual procedures are repeated here for convenience.
2. HOW TO - STEERING FALLAWAY ADJUSTMENT
2.0 - Fabricate the fall away adjusting tool as described in Appendix A at the end of this document. If you do not want to make the tool, a similar tool may be purchased from various motorcycle accessory dealers.
2.1 - Remove the windshield.
2.2 - Remove any accessories that might interfere with frontend movement or that add weight to either side of the frontend or handlebars (GPS units, lowers attached to the fork, excessive fringe or get back whips, etc).
2.3 - Disconnect both throttle cables. Tie them out of the way. Mark one of the cables and the control housing so you know which cable goes in which position. The front position is the throttle cable. The rear position is the idle cable. NOTE: Be sure to capture the two brass ferrules on the ends of the cables. See Figure 1 and 2.
2.4 - Disconnect the clutch cable. Suggest unbolting the handlebar mount leaving the cable attached to the lever. This eliminates the need to readjust the clutch cable. Tie the cable/lever out of the way. See Figure 3.
2.5 - Place the bike on a jack where it is level side to side and front to back. Raise the bike where the front wheel is clear of the floor.
2.6 - Move the frontend back and forth to verify the wiring harness on each side is not binding the movement of the front end.
2.7 - Grease the steering neck bearings and work the front end back and forth several times to distribute the grease. Suggest wrapping a piece of rubber hose or bungee cord around the lower bearing area to help force grease into the upper bearing. Inject grease until a small amount comes out of the upper bearing area. See Figure 4.
NOTE: Check for damaged or worn steering head bearings by moving the front end slowly past the center point. If you feel a notch at the center of the front end movement, replacement of the steering head bearings is suggested.
2.8 - Remove the chrome acorn nut and rubber washer in the center of the upper triple tree.
2.9 - Loosen but do not remove the triple tree pinch bolt on the left side of the triple tree.
2.10 - Place a piece of tape along the front edge of the front fender. See Figure 5.
2.11 - Find the center balance point of the frontend. Tap the fender in each direction until you find where the front end balances.
2.12 - Place a pointer of some sort at the center of the fender. Make a mark on the tape for the center balance point. Mark does not have to be in the exact center of the fender. See Figure 5.
2.13 - With the pointer in place, tap the fender in each direction and note where the front end just begins to fall away on it’s own. Make a mark on the tape at these positions. Marks do not have to be centered and may be unequal distances from the center mark. See Figure 6.
2.14 - Measure the distance between the two outer marks. If the distance is 1-2 inches the fall away is correct. If the fallaway is not correct, use the special tool to adjust the upper bearing retainer where the fallaway is 1-2 inches between the two outer marks. See Figure 7. NOTE: A very small adjustment will make a large difference in the fallaway.
2.15 - Tighten the triple tree pinch bolt according to the service manual and reinstall the rubber washer and acorn nut. The acorn nut should be tightened to 30-35 INCH-LBS (The Clymer manual has a misprint with FT-LBS).
2.16 - Reinstall the clutch cable/lever, throttle cables, windshield and any other accessories that were removed.
ALL DONE!
3. HOW TO - ROCKER DRAG ADJUSTMENT
3.0 - Only major items are documented here. The service manual (Clymer) covers the details pretty well. NOTE: It is helpful to spray WD40 on the rocker bearing jam nuts, rocker pivot bolts, and around the brake caliper mounting arm at the axle the day before you do the work.
3.1 - Disconnect the fender tip light connector. This connector is under the gas tank on the left side. Remove or reposition the gas tank to gain access to the connector. Follow the steps in your service manual or methods you have used before. Cut all of the tie wraps on the fender tip lamp cable. NOTE: Refer to the tech tip article in ELECTRICAL for a solution to eliminate gas tank removal on future front end service.
3.2 - Remove the front brake caliper. Tie it up out of the way (The passing lamp bar is a convenient place). NOTE: Use twine or wire to tie the caliper. Do NOT hang the caliper from the brake line. Tie the outboard pad holder to the caliper to keep it from falling off. Place a thin piece of wood or other material between the brake pads just in case someone pulls the front brake. This will keep the piston from being pushed out of place. See Figure 8.
3.3 - Remove the front wheel. Follow the steps in the service manual or methods you have used before. Use a rubber strap wrench to remove the front axle caps. The special HD tool is not needed. See Figure 9.
3.4 - Temp reinstall the front axle to hold the front fender in position.
3.5 - Remove the front fender. Place a towel over the fender around the fork area to prevent scratching the fender. Use masking tape to hold the towel on the fender. See Figure 10.
Remove the fender mounting bolt on the left side. Be sure to hold the fender as it will rotate to the rear when this bolt is removed.
While supporting the fender, remove the front axle. Slowly lower the fender, then rotate the bottom (axle area) to the right side of the bike while lowering. Clearances are tight. Take your time. See Figure 10A.
3.6 - Remove the mounting bolt holding the caliper mounting arm to the brake reaction link. Rotate the mounting arm forward and work it free from the bushing on the left side rocker. This task may be difficult if dirt has accumulated there for a long time. Note the position of the large washer and rubber grommet. See Figures 11 and 12.
The brake arm may be easier to remove after step 3.10 with the parts on the work bench. The bushing in the arm is bronze. The bushing pressed into the rocker is chrome plated steel. Fine steel wool and WD40 can be used to clean both bushings. NOTE: The chrome steel bushing may become unseated or pull out of the rocker. If it does, it can be reinstalled with a press or hard rubber hammer while on the work bench. Refer to Figures 13, 14 and 15.
This maintenance item is NOT described in the Clymer manual. Perform this step on the same schedule as the rocker drag adjustment.
At this time you may wish to perform the steps in Section 7 to reduce fender damage if the fender hangs on the brake reaction link bolt at the fork end of the reaction link.
3.7 - Loosen the large rocker jam nuts on both sides. This step may be easier if you temp reinstall the front wheel and front axle. The spacers can be omitted. Lower the bike where the front wheel is solidly on the floor. Use a crowfoot wrench to break the jam nuts loose. You may have to hold the bearing retainer with a 1/2” Allen socket. NOTE: Be careful as the crowfoot can easily slip off the nut. See Figure 16. Raise the bike on the jack and remove the front axle and front wheel if you used that method. NOTE: Leave the front wheel slightly touching the floor and removal will be easier.
3.8 - Secure the springer fork to the rigid fork using tie wraps or other method. See Figure 17. NOTE: If the springer fork is not secured, it may snap forward with severe force when the rockers are disconnected from the fork. This could result in a trip to the emergency room.
3.9 - Disconnect the rockers from the springer fork as described in the service manual.
3.10 - Disassemble the rocker and bearing assemblies for cleaning, inspection, and lubrication as described in the service manual. Remove all traces of old grease, dirt and grit. Clean up any corrosion on all parts. Make note of the order of the parts on disassembly and reassemble in the same order. See Figures 18, 19, 20 and 21.
3.11 - Reassemble the rockers to the rigid fork as described in the service manual. Note the rockers are labeled “L” and “R” for left and right.
3.12 - Adjust the rocker drag as described in the service manual except set the initial drag to about 25 in-lbs. Tighten the jam nut while holding the bearing retainer where it will not move. Tighten the jam nut to 95-105 ft-lbs. See Figure 22.
Check the rocker drag. It should be 25-35 in-lbs. It may take several attempts to get the drag within range. See Figure 23. NOTE: A small adjustment makes a large difference in the drag.
A torque wrench with a dial readout is the easiest to use but you can accomplish the task with a click type torque wrench as follows. This method targets the middle of the drag range.
1. Set the wrench to 28 in-lbs. Move the rocker with the wrench. If the wrench clicks the drag is 28 in-lbs or higher.
2. Set the wrench to 32 in-lbs. Move the rocker with the wrench. If the wrench does NOT click the drag is below 32 in-lbs.
3. Adjust the bearing retainer as needed where the wrench clicks at the lower end of the range and does NOT click at the higher end of the range. Repeat these steps as needed.
Alternatively you can modify the lower and upper ranges and change the wrench setting to narrow the drag to a specific value.
3.13 - Reassemble the rockers to the springer fork as described in the service manual. Remove the tie wraps put in place in step 3.8.
3.14 - Put a small amount of wheel bearing grease on the caliper mounting arm bushings at the axle end of the arm. Reinstall the caliper mounting arm. Refer to Figure 15.
This maintenance item is NOT described in the Clymer manual. Perform this step on the same schedule as the rocker drag adjustment.
3.15 - Clean up any corrosion on the front axle. Put a small amount of wheel bearing grease along the length of the axle.
3.16 - Reinstall the front fender. Be sure your protective padding is still on the fender. Lift and rotate the fender into position from the right side of the bike. Insert the front axle to hold the fender in place. While holding the fender, reinstall the fender mounting bolt.
3.17 - Reinstall the front wheel. NOTE: Temp install just the axle and wheel. Lower the bike where the front tire is just touching the floor. Remove the axle and reinstall with all of the spacers. Refer to Appendix B for the order of the spacers.
3.18 – Check the axle caps and threads on the fender for corrosion. Clean up any corrosion and coat the threads and inside of the caps with WD40. Install the axle caps. A snug fit is tight enough.
3.19 - Reinstall the front brake caliper as described in the service manual.
3.20 - Reconnect the fender tip lamp connector and install new tie wraps.
3.21 - Reinstall or reposition the gas tank if it was removed in step 3.1.
3.22 - Check that the wheel rotates freely and the front brake works correctly.
ALL DONE!
4. HOW TO - REBOUND SPRING ADJUSTMENT
4.0 - Only major items are documented here. The service manual (Clymer) covers the details pretty well.
4.1 - Place the bike on a jack with front wheel on the floor. This is for ease of work only and does not affect the adjustment.
4.2 - Remove the spring bridge as describe in the service manual.
4.2 - Loosen or tighten the large retainer nuts on the rebound springs until the distance from the top of the nut to the top of the spring rod is .625 - .750 inches or 16-19mm. The distance must be the same on both springs. Refer to Figure 24.
4.3 - Reinstall the spring bridge as described in the service manual.
ALL DONE!
5. HOW TO - REMOVE SQUEAKS AND CHIRPS FROM FRONT SUSPENSION
5.1 - There is a metal bushing that rides on the spring rod at the upper spring perch (between the rebound springs and lower spring assemblies). This bushing is inside the rubber bumpers on the springs. Shoot a small amount of WD40 onto the spring rod above the bumpers inside the rebound springs. The WD40 will run down to the metal bushing. Refer to Figure 25. The metal bushing is item #8 on the diagram.
6. HOW TO - FORK REMOVAL AND NECK BEARING SERVICE
6.0 - Only major items are documented here. The service manual (Clymer) covers the details pretty well.
6.1 - This step documents items that must be removed from the bike. They are not necessarily in order. Follow the steps in the service manual.
Remove any accessories that may interfere with fork removal.
Remove the windshield.
Remove the gas tank(s) to gain access to the various electrical connectors and to avoid potential damage to the gas tank(s).
Disconnect all wiring for the passing lamps, headlight, front turn signals, fender tip lamp, horn, and handle bar controls. Extract the pins from the two Deutch connectors for the handle bar controls so that the wiring will pass between the frame neck and lower triple tree. Be sure to note which color wires go into which connector position.
Remove the passing lamp bar assembly, headlight, and windshield mounting bracket.
Remove the front wheel. Disconnect the front brake line at the caliper and remove the front brake caliper. Remove the front fender. Remove any brake line clamps on the rigid fork. Note: Tie/tape a small plastic baggie around the caliper end of the brake line to catch fluid that will leak out.
Disconnect the clutch cable. Suggest unbolting the handlebar mount leaving the cable attached to the lever. This eliminates the need to readjust the clutch cable. Tie the cable/lever out of the way. See Figure 3.
Disconnect both throttle cables. Position them out of the way. Mark one of the cables and the control housing so you know which cable goes in which position. The front position is the throttle cable. The rear position is the idle cable. NOTE: Be sure to capture the two brass ferrules on the ends of the cables. See Figure 1 and 2.
Remove the handle bars. Carefully pull the front brake line and wiring through the fork and triple tree. Anything left attached to the handlebars can remain (control housings, front brake master cylinder, mirrors, left side grip, etc.)
Remove the front shock absorber.
Note: Leave the handle bar risers and upper triple tree installed at this time.
6.2 - Remove the spring bridge.
6.3 - Install the spring compressor tool per the instructions that come with the tool. Place a rubber washer or piece of leather under the large bolt and washer of the tool to protect the shock mount area. See Figure 26.
6.4 - Secure the springer fork to the rigid fork using tie wraps or other method. See Figure 27. NOTE: If the springer fork is not secured, it may snap forward with severe force when the rockers are disconnected from the fork. This could result in a trip to the emergency room.
6.5 - Disconnect the rockers from the springer fork as described in the service manual.
During steps 6.6 and 6.7 be sure to label parts so that they can be reinstalled in the same positions. Although the parts are the same from side to side, they have taken a set to their positions. See Figure 28A for an example.
6.6 - Remove the rebound springs. Turn the bolt on the spring compressor tool clockwise to release the tension on the rebound springs. Use WD40 or a light grease to keep the tool bolt and threaded rod lubricated to prevent thread damage. After the spring tension is released remove the two large rebound spring retaining nuts, rebound springs, spring perches and cushions. Note the order of the parts and orientation for later reinstallation. See Figure 28B and the diagrams in the service manual.
6.7 - Remove the compression springs. Turn the bolt on the spring compressor tool counter-clockwise to release the tension on the compression springs. Use WD40 or a light grease to keep the tool bolt and threaded rod lubricated to prevent thread damage. When the spring tension is released, hold the springer fork and fully remove the tool bolt. Lower the springer fork, springs, and compressor tool to remove from the rigid fork. See Figure 29. Remove the compressor tool from the springer fork. Note the order of the parts and orientation for later reinstallation. See Figure 30A and the diagrams in the service manual.
For removing the lower inner compression springs, there is a hole in the spring rod that can be used to insert a long screw driver or drift to hold the spring rod while removing the special acorn nut on the bottom side of the springer fork. The hole is not easily accessible for removal and the screw driver or drift will jam in place on installation. Alternately, use a large pair of ViseGrips and a rag to grip the spring rod at it's largest diameter just above the lower inner compression spring. See Figure 30B.
6.8 - Clean up any corrosion on all parts and inspect for damage. Replace parts as needed.
6.9 - Remove the handle bar risers and upper triple tree.
6.10 - Support the rigid fork and remove the upper bearing retainer and dust cap. After the bearing retainer and dust cap are removed, lower the rigid fork and remove it from the frame.
6.11 - Clean all of the old grease from the frame neck, fork stem, and bearings.
6.12 - Inspect the bearing races and bearings for wear or damage. See Figure 31 for an example of a worn bearing race that should be replaced.
6.13 - If necessary, replace the bearings and races according to the steps in the service manual or methods that work for you. Note: Removing the lower bearing from the fork stem will likely destroy the bearing. Do not attempt to remove unless you plan to replace it.
The new lower bearing can be installed with a driver made from a piece of 1” inside diameter PVC pipe about 12” long. Use a hard rubber hammer to operate the driver. See Figure 32.
6.14 - Reinstall the rigid fork to the frame. Support the fork while installing the upper bearing, dust cap, and upper bearing retainer. Be sure the upper bearing is seated properly. Hand tighten the bearing retainer.
6.15 - Reinstall the upper triple tree, riser studs and risers. Leave the pinch bolt on the side of the triple tree loose.
6.16 - Inject grease into the grease nipple on the side of the frame neck and work the rigid fork back and forth to distribute the grease. Suggest wrapping a piece of rubber hose or bungee cord around the lower bearing area to help force grease into the upper bearing. Inject grease until a small amount comes out of the upper bearing area. See Figure 4.
6.17 - Reassemble the springer fork components.
6.18 - Reinstall the springer fork to the rigid fork and rockers. Install the spring compressor tool onto the springer fork. Support the springer fork assembly and install the springer fork and compressor tool onto the rigid fork. Place a rubber washer or piece of leather under the large bolt and washer of the tool to protect the shock mount area. See Figure 26. Turn the bolt on the spring compressor tool clockwise until the compression springs are properly seated on the upper spring perch.
6.19 - Secure the springer fork to the rigid fork using tie wraps or other method. See Figure 27. NOTE: If the springer fork is not secured, it may snap forward with severe force when the compressor tool is operated. This could result in a trip to the emergency room.
6.20 - Continue to turn the bolt on the spring compressor tool clockwise until you are able to install the rebound spring components without difficulty. The compression springs will be mostly compressed at this point. Use WD40 or a light grease to keep the tool bolt and threaded rod lubricated to prevent thread damage.
6.21 - Reconnect the springer fork to the rockers and remove the ties holding the two forks together.
6.22 - Turn the bolt on the spring compressor tool counter-clockwise to release spring tension and allow removal of the tool. Use WD40 or a light grease to keep the tool bolt and threaded rod lubricated to prevent thread damage.
6.23 - Reinstall the shock absorber.
6.24 - Reinstall all front end components that were removed in step 6.1 except for the spring bridge.
6.25 - Perform the fallaway adjustment as described in Section 2 above.
6.26 - Perform the rocker drag adjustment as described in Section 3 above.
6.27 - Perform the rebound spring adjustment as described in Section 4 above. The spring bridge will be reinstalled during these steps.
6.28 - Install new brake fluid for the front brake. Bleed the brake. Ensure that the brake is working properly BEFORE riding the bike.
ALL DONE!
7. HOW TO - MODIFY BRAKE REACTION LINK BOLT FOR FENDER HANG PROBLEM
7.0 - Under some conditions the front fork can flex and cause the front fender to hang on the brake reaction link bolt on the rigid fork. These steps modify the bolt to reduce the damage to the fender. You may wish to combine this section with other front end work in Section 3.
7.1 - This step documents items that must be removed from the bike. They are not necessarily in order. Follow the steps in the service manual.
Remove the front brake caliper. Tie it up out of the way (The passing lamp bar is a convenient place). NOTE: Use twine or wire to tie the caliper. Do NOT hang the caliper from the brake line. Tie the outboard pad holder to the caliper to keep it from falling off. Place a thin piece of wood or other material between the brake pads just in case someone pulls the front brake. This will keep the piston from being pushed out of place. See Figure 8.
Remove the front wheel. Follow the steps in the service manual or methods you have used before. Use a rubber strap wrench to remove the front axle caps. The special HD tool is not needed. See Figure 9.
Temp reinstall the front axle to hold the front fender in position.
Remove the front fender. Place a towel over the fender around the fork area to prevent scratching the fender. Use masking tape to hold the towel on the fender. See Figure 10.
Remove the fender mounting bolt on the left side. Be sure to hold the fender as it will rotate to the rear when this bolt is removed.
While supporting the fender, remove the front axle. Slowly lower the fender, then rotate the bottom (axle area) to the right side of the bike while lowering. Clearances are tight. Take your time.
7.2 - Remove the brake reaction link bolt at the fork end of the link. The caliper mounting arm will probably move or may fall off the rocker. Either remove the arm or tie it to the springer fork leg.
7.3 - Grind/file one side of the bolt head to get something that looks like Figure 33 and Figure 34.
7.4 - Reinstall the bolt and position the ground area up towards the fender lip.
7.5 - Reinstall all front end components that were removed in step 7.1.
ALL DONE!
Figures and appendices for front end service
SPRINGER FRONT SUSPENSION
KEYWORDS AND KEY PHRASES
frontend - fallaway - rocker - wobble - shimmy - adjustment - steering - squeaks - chirps - bearings - fork removal
front axle spacers - rebound springs - brake link bolt - fender hang
APPLICABLE YEAR/MODEL
1997-2003 Heritage Springer
(See following post for more info)
Additional info from HD J-sheet for springer fork installation.
http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_us...ts/-j00588.pdf
Springer service video
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2n7ytifd2g...rvice.m4v?dl=0
SPECIALTY TOOLS REQUIRED
Tools required depend on the level of servicing. Refer to the text and service manual.
rubber strap wrench (axle caps)
1 1/2" crowfoot wrench (rocker jam nuts)
fallaway adjusting tool - fabricate (see text and figures) or purchase
inch-pound torque wrench
foot-pound torque wrench
spring compressor tool
steering head upper bearing remover
steering head lower bearing installer - fabricate
brake bleeding tool/method such as MityVac
1. TECHNICAL AREAS ADDRESSED
1.1 - The Springer front end requires three adjustments to maintain stability and ride quality. Those three adjustments are steering fall away, rocker drag, and rebound spring tension. This is a supplement to the service manual procedures but some service manual procedures are repeated here for convenience.
2. HOW TO - STEERING FALLAWAY ADJUSTMENT
2.0 - Fabricate the fall away adjusting tool as described in Appendix A at the end of this document. If you do not want to make the tool, a similar tool may be purchased from various motorcycle accessory dealers.
2.1 - Remove the windshield.
2.2 - Remove any accessories that might interfere with frontend movement or that add weight to either side of the frontend or handlebars (GPS units, lowers attached to the fork, excessive fringe or get back whips, etc).
2.3 - Disconnect both throttle cables. Tie them out of the way. Mark one of the cables and the control housing so you know which cable goes in which position. The front position is the throttle cable. The rear position is the idle cable. NOTE: Be sure to capture the two brass ferrules on the ends of the cables. See Figure 1 and 2.
2.4 - Disconnect the clutch cable. Suggest unbolting the handlebar mount leaving the cable attached to the lever. This eliminates the need to readjust the clutch cable. Tie the cable/lever out of the way. See Figure 3.
2.5 - Place the bike on a jack where it is level side to side and front to back. Raise the bike where the front wheel is clear of the floor.
2.6 - Move the frontend back and forth to verify the wiring harness on each side is not binding the movement of the front end.
2.7 - Grease the steering neck bearings and work the front end back and forth several times to distribute the grease. Suggest wrapping a piece of rubber hose or bungee cord around the lower bearing area to help force grease into the upper bearing. Inject grease until a small amount comes out of the upper bearing area. See Figure 4.
NOTE: Check for damaged or worn steering head bearings by moving the front end slowly past the center point. If you feel a notch at the center of the front end movement, replacement of the steering head bearings is suggested.
2.8 - Remove the chrome acorn nut and rubber washer in the center of the upper triple tree.
2.9 - Loosen but do not remove the triple tree pinch bolt on the left side of the triple tree.
2.10 - Place a piece of tape along the front edge of the front fender. See Figure 5.
2.11 - Find the center balance point of the frontend. Tap the fender in each direction until you find where the front end balances.
2.12 - Place a pointer of some sort at the center of the fender. Make a mark on the tape for the center balance point. Mark does not have to be in the exact center of the fender. See Figure 5.
2.13 - With the pointer in place, tap the fender in each direction and note where the front end just begins to fall away on it’s own. Make a mark on the tape at these positions. Marks do not have to be centered and may be unequal distances from the center mark. See Figure 6.
2.14 - Measure the distance between the two outer marks. If the distance is 1-2 inches the fall away is correct. If the fallaway is not correct, use the special tool to adjust the upper bearing retainer where the fallaway is 1-2 inches between the two outer marks. See Figure 7. NOTE: A very small adjustment will make a large difference in the fallaway.
2.15 - Tighten the triple tree pinch bolt according to the service manual and reinstall the rubber washer and acorn nut. The acorn nut should be tightened to 30-35 INCH-LBS (The Clymer manual has a misprint with FT-LBS).
2.16 - Reinstall the clutch cable/lever, throttle cables, windshield and any other accessories that were removed.
ALL DONE!
3. HOW TO - ROCKER DRAG ADJUSTMENT
3.0 - Only major items are documented here. The service manual (Clymer) covers the details pretty well. NOTE: It is helpful to spray WD40 on the rocker bearing jam nuts, rocker pivot bolts, and around the brake caliper mounting arm at the axle the day before you do the work.
3.1 - Disconnect the fender tip light connector. This connector is under the gas tank on the left side. Remove or reposition the gas tank to gain access to the connector. Follow the steps in your service manual or methods you have used before. Cut all of the tie wraps on the fender tip lamp cable. NOTE: Refer to the tech tip article in ELECTRICAL for a solution to eliminate gas tank removal on future front end service.
3.2 - Remove the front brake caliper. Tie it up out of the way (The passing lamp bar is a convenient place). NOTE: Use twine or wire to tie the caliper. Do NOT hang the caliper from the brake line. Tie the outboard pad holder to the caliper to keep it from falling off. Place a thin piece of wood or other material between the brake pads just in case someone pulls the front brake. This will keep the piston from being pushed out of place. See Figure 8.
3.3 - Remove the front wheel. Follow the steps in the service manual or methods you have used before. Use a rubber strap wrench to remove the front axle caps. The special HD tool is not needed. See Figure 9.
3.4 - Temp reinstall the front axle to hold the front fender in position.
3.5 - Remove the front fender. Place a towel over the fender around the fork area to prevent scratching the fender. Use masking tape to hold the towel on the fender. See Figure 10.
Remove the fender mounting bolt on the left side. Be sure to hold the fender as it will rotate to the rear when this bolt is removed.
While supporting the fender, remove the front axle. Slowly lower the fender, then rotate the bottom (axle area) to the right side of the bike while lowering. Clearances are tight. Take your time. See Figure 10A.
3.6 - Remove the mounting bolt holding the caliper mounting arm to the brake reaction link. Rotate the mounting arm forward and work it free from the bushing on the left side rocker. This task may be difficult if dirt has accumulated there for a long time. Note the position of the large washer and rubber grommet. See Figures 11 and 12.
The brake arm may be easier to remove after step 3.10 with the parts on the work bench. The bushing in the arm is bronze. The bushing pressed into the rocker is chrome plated steel. Fine steel wool and WD40 can be used to clean both bushings. NOTE: The chrome steel bushing may become unseated or pull out of the rocker. If it does, it can be reinstalled with a press or hard rubber hammer while on the work bench. Refer to Figures 13, 14 and 15.
This maintenance item is NOT described in the Clymer manual. Perform this step on the same schedule as the rocker drag adjustment.
At this time you may wish to perform the steps in Section 7 to reduce fender damage if the fender hangs on the brake reaction link bolt at the fork end of the reaction link.
3.7 - Loosen the large rocker jam nuts on both sides. This step may be easier if you temp reinstall the front wheel and front axle. The spacers can be omitted. Lower the bike where the front wheel is solidly on the floor. Use a crowfoot wrench to break the jam nuts loose. You may have to hold the bearing retainer with a 1/2” Allen socket. NOTE: Be careful as the crowfoot can easily slip off the nut. See Figure 16. Raise the bike on the jack and remove the front axle and front wheel if you used that method. NOTE: Leave the front wheel slightly touching the floor and removal will be easier.
3.8 - Secure the springer fork to the rigid fork using tie wraps or other method. See Figure 17. NOTE: If the springer fork is not secured, it may snap forward with severe force when the rockers are disconnected from the fork. This could result in a trip to the emergency room.
3.9 - Disconnect the rockers from the springer fork as described in the service manual.
3.10 - Disassemble the rocker and bearing assemblies for cleaning, inspection, and lubrication as described in the service manual. Remove all traces of old grease, dirt and grit. Clean up any corrosion on all parts. Make note of the order of the parts on disassembly and reassemble in the same order. See Figures 18, 19, 20 and 21.
3.11 - Reassemble the rockers to the rigid fork as described in the service manual. Note the rockers are labeled “L” and “R” for left and right.
3.12 - Adjust the rocker drag as described in the service manual except set the initial drag to about 25 in-lbs. Tighten the jam nut while holding the bearing retainer where it will not move. Tighten the jam nut to 95-105 ft-lbs. See Figure 22.
Check the rocker drag. It should be 25-35 in-lbs. It may take several attempts to get the drag within range. See Figure 23. NOTE: A small adjustment makes a large difference in the drag.
A torque wrench with a dial readout is the easiest to use but you can accomplish the task with a click type torque wrench as follows. This method targets the middle of the drag range.
1. Set the wrench to 28 in-lbs. Move the rocker with the wrench. If the wrench clicks the drag is 28 in-lbs or higher.
2. Set the wrench to 32 in-lbs. Move the rocker with the wrench. If the wrench does NOT click the drag is below 32 in-lbs.
3. Adjust the bearing retainer as needed where the wrench clicks at the lower end of the range and does NOT click at the higher end of the range. Repeat these steps as needed.
Alternatively you can modify the lower and upper ranges and change the wrench setting to narrow the drag to a specific value.
3.13 - Reassemble the rockers to the springer fork as described in the service manual. Remove the tie wraps put in place in step 3.8.
3.14 - Put a small amount of wheel bearing grease on the caliper mounting arm bushings at the axle end of the arm. Reinstall the caliper mounting arm. Refer to Figure 15.
This maintenance item is NOT described in the Clymer manual. Perform this step on the same schedule as the rocker drag adjustment.
3.15 - Clean up any corrosion on the front axle. Put a small amount of wheel bearing grease along the length of the axle.
3.16 - Reinstall the front fender. Be sure your protective padding is still on the fender. Lift and rotate the fender into position from the right side of the bike. Insert the front axle to hold the fender in place. While holding the fender, reinstall the fender mounting bolt.
3.17 - Reinstall the front wheel. NOTE: Temp install just the axle and wheel. Lower the bike where the front tire is just touching the floor. Remove the axle and reinstall with all of the spacers. Refer to Appendix B for the order of the spacers.
3.18 – Check the axle caps and threads on the fender for corrosion. Clean up any corrosion and coat the threads and inside of the caps with WD40. Install the axle caps. A snug fit is tight enough.
3.19 - Reinstall the front brake caliper as described in the service manual.
3.20 - Reconnect the fender tip lamp connector and install new tie wraps.
3.21 - Reinstall or reposition the gas tank if it was removed in step 3.1.
3.22 - Check that the wheel rotates freely and the front brake works correctly.
ALL DONE!
4. HOW TO - REBOUND SPRING ADJUSTMENT
4.0 - Only major items are documented here. The service manual (Clymer) covers the details pretty well.
4.1 - Place the bike on a jack with front wheel on the floor. This is for ease of work only and does not affect the adjustment.
4.2 - Remove the spring bridge as describe in the service manual.
4.2 - Loosen or tighten the large retainer nuts on the rebound springs until the distance from the top of the nut to the top of the spring rod is .625 - .750 inches or 16-19mm. The distance must be the same on both springs. Refer to Figure 24.
4.3 - Reinstall the spring bridge as described in the service manual.
ALL DONE!
5. HOW TO - REMOVE SQUEAKS AND CHIRPS FROM FRONT SUSPENSION
5.1 - There is a metal bushing that rides on the spring rod at the upper spring perch (between the rebound springs and lower spring assemblies). This bushing is inside the rubber bumpers on the springs. Shoot a small amount of WD40 onto the spring rod above the bumpers inside the rebound springs. The WD40 will run down to the metal bushing. Refer to Figure 25. The metal bushing is item #8 on the diagram.
6. HOW TO - FORK REMOVAL AND NECK BEARING SERVICE
6.0 - Only major items are documented here. The service manual (Clymer) covers the details pretty well.
6.1 - This step documents items that must be removed from the bike. They are not necessarily in order. Follow the steps in the service manual.
Remove any accessories that may interfere with fork removal.
Remove the windshield.
Remove the gas tank(s) to gain access to the various electrical connectors and to avoid potential damage to the gas tank(s).
Disconnect all wiring for the passing lamps, headlight, front turn signals, fender tip lamp, horn, and handle bar controls. Extract the pins from the two Deutch connectors for the handle bar controls so that the wiring will pass between the frame neck and lower triple tree. Be sure to note which color wires go into which connector position.
Remove the passing lamp bar assembly, headlight, and windshield mounting bracket.
Remove the front wheel. Disconnect the front brake line at the caliper and remove the front brake caliper. Remove the front fender. Remove any brake line clamps on the rigid fork. Note: Tie/tape a small plastic baggie around the caliper end of the brake line to catch fluid that will leak out.
Disconnect the clutch cable. Suggest unbolting the handlebar mount leaving the cable attached to the lever. This eliminates the need to readjust the clutch cable. Tie the cable/lever out of the way. See Figure 3.
Disconnect both throttle cables. Position them out of the way. Mark one of the cables and the control housing so you know which cable goes in which position. The front position is the throttle cable. The rear position is the idle cable. NOTE: Be sure to capture the two brass ferrules on the ends of the cables. See Figure 1 and 2.
Remove the handle bars. Carefully pull the front brake line and wiring through the fork and triple tree. Anything left attached to the handlebars can remain (control housings, front brake master cylinder, mirrors, left side grip, etc.)
Remove the front shock absorber.
Note: Leave the handle bar risers and upper triple tree installed at this time.
6.2 - Remove the spring bridge.
6.3 - Install the spring compressor tool per the instructions that come with the tool. Place a rubber washer or piece of leather under the large bolt and washer of the tool to protect the shock mount area. See Figure 26.
6.4 - Secure the springer fork to the rigid fork using tie wraps or other method. See Figure 27. NOTE: If the springer fork is not secured, it may snap forward with severe force when the rockers are disconnected from the fork. This could result in a trip to the emergency room.
6.5 - Disconnect the rockers from the springer fork as described in the service manual.
During steps 6.6 and 6.7 be sure to label parts so that they can be reinstalled in the same positions. Although the parts are the same from side to side, they have taken a set to their positions. See Figure 28A for an example.
6.6 - Remove the rebound springs. Turn the bolt on the spring compressor tool clockwise to release the tension on the rebound springs. Use WD40 or a light grease to keep the tool bolt and threaded rod lubricated to prevent thread damage. After the spring tension is released remove the two large rebound spring retaining nuts, rebound springs, spring perches and cushions. Note the order of the parts and orientation for later reinstallation. See Figure 28B and the diagrams in the service manual.
6.7 - Remove the compression springs. Turn the bolt on the spring compressor tool counter-clockwise to release the tension on the compression springs. Use WD40 or a light grease to keep the tool bolt and threaded rod lubricated to prevent thread damage. When the spring tension is released, hold the springer fork and fully remove the tool bolt. Lower the springer fork, springs, and compressor tool to remove from the rigid fork. See Figure 29. Remove the compressor tool from the springer fork. Note the order of the parts and orientation for later reinstallation. See Figure 30A and the diagrams in the service manual.
For removing the lower inner compression springs, there is a hole in the spring rod that can be used to insert a long screw driver or drift to hold the spring rod while removing the special acorn nut on the bottom side of the springer fork. The hole is not easily accessible for removal and the screw driver or drift will jam in place on installation. Alternately, use a large pair of ViseGrips and a rag to grip the spring rod at it's largest diameter just above the lower inner compression spring. See Figure 30B.
6.8 - Clean up any corrosion on all parts and inspect for damage. Replace parts as needed.
6.9 - Remove the handle bar risers and upper triple tree.
6.10 - Support the rigid fork and remove the upper bearing retainer and dust cap. After the bearing retainer and dust cap are removed, lower the rigid fork and remove it from the frame.
6.11 - Clean all of the old grease from the frame neck, fork stem, and bearings.
6.12 - Inspect the bearing races and bearings for wear or damage. See Figure 31 for an example of a worn bearing race that should be replaced.
6.13 - If necessary, replace the bearings and races according to the steps in the service manual or methods that work for you. Note: Removing the lower bearing from the fork stem will likely destroy the bearing. Do not attempt to remove unless you plan to replace it.
The new lower bearing can be installed with a driver made from a piece of 1” inside diameter PVC pipe about 12” long. Use a hard rubber hammer to operate the driver. See Figure 32.
6.14 - Reinstall the rigid fork to the frame. Support the fork while installing the upper bearing, dust cap, and upper bearing retainer. Be sure the upper bearing is seated properly. Hand tighten the bearing retainer.
6.15 - Reinstall the upper triple tree, riser studs and risers. Leave the pinch bolt on the side of the triple tree loose.
6.16 - Inject grease into the grease nipple on the side of the frame neck and work the rigid fork back and forth to distribute the grease. Suggest wrapping a piece of rubber hose or bungee cord around the lower bearing area to help force grease into the upper bearing. Inject grease until a small amount comes out of the upper bearing area. See Figure 4.
6.17 - Reassemble the springer fork components.
6.18 - Reinstall the springer fork to the rigid fork and rockers. Install the spring compressor tool onto the springer fork. Support the springer fork assembly and install the springer fork and compressor tool onto the rigid fork. Place a rubber washer or piece of leather under the large bolt and washer of the tool to protect the shock mount area. See Figure 26. Turn the bolt on the spring compressor tool clockwise until the compression springs are properly seated on the upper spring perch.
6.19 - Secure the springer fork to the rigid fork using tie wraps or other method. See Figure 27. NOTE: If the springer fork is not secured, it may snap forward with severe force when the compressor tool is operated. This could result in a trip to the emergency room.
6.20 - Continue to turn the bolt on the spring compressor tool clockwise until you are able to install the rebound spring components without difficulty. The compression springs will be mostly compressed at this point. Use WD40 or a light grease to keep the tool bolt and threaded rod lubricated to prevent thread damage.
6.21 - Reconnect the springer fork to the rockers and remove the ties holding the two forks together.
6.22 - Turn the bolt on the spring compressor tool counter-clockwise to release spring tension and allow removal of the tool. Use WD40 or a light grease to keep the tool bolt and threaded rod lubricated to prevent thread damage.
6.23 - Reinstall the shock absorber.
6.24 - Reinstall all front end components that were removed in step 6.1 except for the spring bridge.
6.25 - Perform the fallaway adjustment as described in Section 2 above.
6.26 - Perform the rocker drag adjustment as described in Section 3 above.
6.27 - Perform the rebound spring adjustment as described in Section 4 above. The spring bridge will be reinstalled during these steps.
6.28 - Install new brake fluid for the front brake. Bleed the brake. Ensure that the brake is working properly BEFORE riding the bike.
ALL DONE!
7. HOW TO - MODIFY BRAKE REACTION LINK BOLT FOR FENDER HANG PROBLEM
7.0 - Under some conditions the front fork can flex and cause the front fender to hang on the brake reaction link bolt on the rigid fork. These steps modify the bolt to reduce the damage to the fender. You may wish to combine this section with other front end work in Section 3.
7.1 - This step documents items that must be removed from the bike. They are not necessarily in order. Follow the steps in the service manual.
Remove the front brake caliper. Tie it up out of the way (The passing lamp bar is a convenient place). NOTE: Use twine or wire to tie the caliper. Do NOT hang the caliper from the brake line. Tie the outboard pad holder to the caliper to keep it from falling off. Place a thin piece of wood or other material between the brake pads just in case someone pulls the front brake. This will keep the piston from being pushed out of place. See Figure 8.
Remove the front wheel. Follow the steps in the service manual or methods you have used before. Use a rubber strap wrench to remove the front axle caps. The special HD tool is not needed. See Figure 9.
Temp reinstall the front axle to hold the front fender in position.
Remove the front fender. Place a towel over the fender around the fork area to prevent scratching the fender. Use masking tape to hold the towel on the fender. See Figure 10.
Remove the fender mounting bolt on the left side. Be sure to hold the fender as it will rotate to the rear when this bolt is removed.
While supporting the fender, remove the front axle. Slowly lower the fender, then rotate the bottom (axle area) to the right side of the bike while lowering. Clearances are tight. Take your time.
7.2 - Remove the brake reaction link bolt at the fork end of the link. The caliper mounting arm will probably move or may fall off the rocker. Either remove the arm or tie it to the springer fork leg.
7.3 - Grind/file one side of the bolt head to get something that looks like Figure 33 and Figure 34.
7.4 - Reinstall the bolt and position the ground area up towards the fender lip.
7.5 - Reinstall all front end components that were removed in step 7.1.
ALL DONE!
Figures and appendices for front end service
Last edited by gtmalone; 03-31-2016 at 01:57 PM.
#2
01-20-2016, 05:34 PM
Some clarifications - This was written for the 1997-2003 Heritage Springer (FLSTS) but it's probably good for most any Springer model. The FX (skinny tire) Springers may have a different fallaway and rebound spec. The service manual should have that info.
Some earlier Springers may call out for that "hole in the fender or plumb bob" fallaway adjustment. I think the posted method will work fine and it's easier to do but you'll need to set your fallaway with the original method then translate that to the method described in the previous post. HD changed methods somewhere along the line and modern Springer front ends ('84-up) haven't really changed.
Some earlier Springers may call out for that "hole in the fender or plumb bob" fallaway adjustment. I think the posted method will work fine and it's easier to do but you'll need to set your fallaway with the original method then translate that to the method described in the previous post. HD changed methods somewhere along the line and modern Springer front ends ('84-up) haven't really changed.
#3
01-26-2016, 03:05 PM
Updates to Section 6.15 for riser service. Too much text for original post.
6.15 additional info
This is a good time to service the risers and riser studs. There is probably corrosion on the riser nuts and studs.
Use a brass brush or Dremel with a soft brush wheel to clean up the threads on the riser studs. Discard the riser nuts and replace them with stainless Nylok nuts.
Discard the large spring that is in one of the risers. It's supposed to serve as electrical ground but is not needed for grounding.
Clean up the inside of the risers and the rubber bushings. Note the orientation on the bushings. The raised area faces into the riser on both the top and bottom bushings.
You may wish to put a Helicoil in the riser cap bolt holes. These have a tendency to strip out when the bolts are removed/installed. Obtain a 5/16-18 (or appropriate size for your bike) Helicoil kit and follow the instructions with the kit.
6.15 additional info
This is a good time to service the risers and riser studs. There is probably corrosion on the riser nuts and studs.
Use a brass brush or Dremel with a soft brush wheel to clean up the threads on the riser studs. Discard the riser nuts and replace them with stainless Nylok nuts.
Discard the large spring that is in one of the risers. It's supposed to serve as electrical ground but is not needed for grounding.
Clean up the inside of the risers and the rubber bushings. Note the orientation on the bushings. The raised area faces into the riser on both the top and bottom bushings.
You may wish to put a Helicoil in the riser cap bolt holes. These have a tendency to strip out when the bolts are removed/installed. Obtain a 5/16-18 (or appropriate size for your bike) Helicoil kit and follow the instructions with the kit.
#4
05-22-2017, 05:15 PM
The following 2 users liked this post by Joe_G:
Mallard Slayer (03-25-2024),
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