Had a 2004 EGC with solid rotors and never had a problem with warped rotors. Last year I bought a 2011 RG Custom that has the semi (one button) floating rotors. When I picked it up and rode it home it was like riding a jackhammer when I applied the front brakes. The dealer gave me two new ones free of charge and I swapped them out. Now I'm getting that same pulsing. Not as bad as the first set but it has definitely begun. I don't ride in a way that requires a lot of hard braking anymore these days. It's me and the wife and we take our time. I also haven't had any emergency breaking situations (knock on wood) in the season and a half that these have been on the bike.

I know the floating, semi-floating discs are supposed to reduce the possibility of warping but it seems a season and a half is a little quick for them to warp. No other braking issues either. Good pads, clean fluid.

Do I keep fighting this battle or do I go back to a solid rotor and if so does that screw with the ABS?

Thanks.

 

Does sound odd, although I have never owned a bike with that style of rotor. I wouldn't go back to solid rotors, instead using full floating type. The Harley ones are good and come with new screws, although I am swapping over to EBC floaters at present.

 

Thanks! I've been giving this a little more thought and it seems to me that the design of the semi-floating rotor could be setting itself up for issues. If my understanding of the purpose for the friction area to be "separated" from the hub area is correct it is to both keep heat from reaching the hub and keep the area dissipating heat smaller which would allow it to heat and cool more evenly....less of a bulls eye effect for lack of a better explanation. If this is correct then only the one area of the rotor on a semi floating is benefiting. The rest of the rotor is getting that bulls eye effect.

On a side note, as long as I'm on a level surface and it's safe to do so, I release the brakes once I come to a stop. This way the rotor can cool more evenly instead of trapping some heat in the area under the pads. I read somewhere once that the different rate of cooling could contribute to warping and now it's just become habit.

 

I've never understood the reasoning behind that one-eyed style of rotor! The full floating type do make sense, isolating rotor heat from the hub and wheel bearings while also limiting the risk of distortion due to heat build-up. Ah well!

 

I'm at 30,000 on my rotors. Feeling very warped. I cleaned the rotors real well with synthetic stainless and wiped with brake cleaner. Much improved, removed the grabbing a slow speeds and tolerable till this winter when I will replace.

 

I think those one button rotors are just for looks.

I`ve got OEM solid rotors on my `16 Road King, and one or both are warped., no more solid rotors for me.

If I could only find the correct part number for an EBC floating rotor to fit my bike I would be happy.

 

What warps rotors is hard braking and stopping. Heat transfer directly to the rotor. If you can ride an extra mile or two after severe braking, long downhill, etc to allow your pads to cool somewhat. Worst case is warping, slightly better is glazing. Glazing can some times be removed by the judicious use of emery paper on a block and spinning the wheel.

Semi-rotors have just enough side play to self center better than a solid plate rotor. At least it works for me, as it did in my years racing SCCA.