Manual says to use computer to bleed ABS brakes. I am supposed to deliver my bike to a dealer and pay at least 1 hour labor. (not going to happen)
Is there a procedure to do it w/o computer?

 

I would like to know if the abs system on a 2010 ultra can be reset without taking it in too. I have placed my rear pads twice and did a rear brake fluid change trying to get the rear brake to work better as it is right now I think it's pretty much useless. The dealer told me 150.00 to put it on the computer to reset the abs.

 

Everything I have seen and read the ABS module has some solenoids that must be opened in order to properly bleed the brakes. Failure to do so leaves old fluid in the ABS unit which will eventually clog up the system resulting in brake failure.
In another forum I visit there have been numerous postings about complete brake failure if not done properly. Complaints to Harley about the failure have been met with deaf ears. There have been calls for investigations into this issue.
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The failure of proper maintenance will result in complete loss of brakes. The levers will lock up and you have no brakes whatsoever.
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There is a company, Daytona TwinTec that claims to sell a black box that will open the ABS solenoids to allow for proper bleeding. I don't have ABS so I have not tried it.

 

The issue is that the ABS function has to be triggered as if the bike was skidding. Digital Technician tells the ABS to activate. This opens and closes valves in the ABS module rapidly to allow any air to be pushed through. Otherwise it would not be possible to purge all air from system.

I've read that if you are careful not to let any air into the system that you can do a successful flush without D/T. Once you push air into the ABS, you are screwed.

 

so what your saying is I should just bite the bullet take it to the dealer and maybe have a rear brake again.

 

F..k dealer.
I'll bleed the system today and if I need to open solenoids, I'll attach jumper wires to whatever pins I need to. I don't know voltage, so I'll start with 5v

 

If you suspect air in the ABS then you need a D/T to bleed the brake. It's not really a reset, it's a tool to get the ABS to fire while pumping fluid through it to force the air out. If your pedal is soft and bottoming out without stopping the bike then my free internet opinion is air in the system. If your pedal is stiff it could be a bad ABS. If your pads are wearing out that suggests your brake is working. Most braking happens on the front wheel because that's where weight shifts. The rear brake by itself will feel weak.

 

I pumped front brakes and got them about 95% OK. Not as hard as it should be but front brake is usable. I am going to ride it for 30min or so around block, then pump again. It is possible that air bubbles will go into master cylinder themselves. Motor vibration will help.
If you go to HD dealer, tell them not to count on my money for bleeding brakes.

 

I am about to bleed my own brakes. After I bleed them, I will make the abs actuate a few times to try to get the new fluid in there. I have a gravel driveway and actuating the abs is easy. That's what I am going to try.

 

Someone reverse engineered it. $464 for a twin-scan tool.

What are the independent techs doing?