Thanks to all of you, will start the checklist from your responses to get to the problem, much appreciated!

 

Good checklist. My '12 RK just started this over the past 3 months and now it is very noticeable. Living in the Valley of the Sun, it could be my battery. But if it's not this is a good way to isolate it.

 

OK, tried Ratbike Mike's and few other suggestions and found no issues. Bike ran fine all week, then last night I changed out Y-Pipe (cracked), and wouldn't start. I took out super tuner and still nothing, it sounds like an old muscle car when you trying to find a good setting with the distributor and you go to far one way, and it turns over hard.


I even attached jumper cable while trying to start which did nothing to help. Then tried again 15 minutes later, and it started right up, let it run, shut off, and no start.......


So.....I think I'm down to crank or cam sensor? Not sure what else to check.....

 

Ok, decided to exchange battery just because, tested good at the store but I pushed them to replace. So dropped in the new one and it fired right up, turned off and on a few times and no problem at all.....


Except for when I went to ride it, damn clutch lever was tight as a drum, could hardly pull it back??????? I didn't touch anything having to do with the clutch

 

Had that problem on my FLHX. Turned out to be the starter. Starter problem was caused by running on a weak battery to long.

 

Other than throwing a lot of money at it...

Ya gotta go through the system methodically. You just entered another symptom with the clutch, you'll need to go through that also. And, you added after your original post, that it was 'sluggish' turning over. That helps much more than simply saying "it won't start".

The starter end cap covers up the solenoid, which can get burned/pitted, and cause symptoms not unlike a weak battery. Same goes for the Ignition switch on the console. You can disassemble both for inspection, and it won't cost you a thing except your time.

Just visually inspecting connections, may be misleading. Disconnect all connectors between the battery and the starter, cleaning each thoroughly before re-assembly. (No offense, but I don't like the idea posted about using an abrasive to clean the contacts. A brass bristle brush would be better IMHO. An abrasive can leave a rough surface which may corrode or burn the contact area more easily.)

As for the clutch prob, I would start with inspecting the entire length of the cable, looking for any sign of kinks or abrasion. Then re-adjust the cable. If the condition still exists, do a proper adjustment of the clutch itself. If that fails, yer gonna have to open the primary, and maybe even pop the outer cover off of the right side of the transmission, where the clutch cable attaches to the ramp/ball assembly.

Good luck, keep us posted!

 

Well it looks as if the battery was the issue, have not had any issues with starting since the exchange, crazy.....tested good from all point when I did it, and the store, so I don't know!


On the clutch, it actually loosened itself up after a few rides (still a little firm), however two weeks ago I put new brakes on and used a jack to raise it up (as I did when working on the battery issue). Jack placement is right in the middle, could this be somehow effecting the cable?? It's the only thing consistent in causing the clutch tightness...


Lastly, looking for recommendations on "best" way to wire multiple accessories, I have heated gloves, Boss stereo amplifier, battery meter, and the performance tuner. Sorry I don't have voltages right now, but can send if it helps?


Electric is far from my strong suit, and don't want to attempt trial and error with it....


Thanks to all!