Stripped Primary Screw Hole
#1
07-28-2015, 02:40 PM
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Central IL
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Stripped Primary Screw Hole
Well you get what you pay for. My cheap Harbor Freight torque wrench didn't click and I ended up stripping the primary screw hole during my 1k service.
The bolt itself looks fine, though it could use a new ring.
What's the best fix for this to get it back to torque?
The bolt itself looks fine, though it could use a new ring.
What's the best fix for this to get it back to torque?
#2
07-28-2015, 07:19 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
#4
07-28-2015, 08:27 PM
Road Warrior
It's hard to say with out actually seeing it, but maybe tap it out and get a bigger plug. Whatever you do is gonna be jerry rigged unless you replace the primary cover. Did you torque it to inch lbs or foot pounds? Might want to get a factory service manual. Sucks to have a new bike and already f ed it up. Good luck.
#5
07-28-2015, 08:33 PM
#6
07-28-2015, 08:43 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
If you pulled the threads right out of the cover waiting for the wrench to click, what you need is to disassemble and reassemble a few lawn mowers or something and learn how to use your tools and get a sense of what things feel like when you use them.
What's the torque spec on that plug? Probably something like 12 in-lbs or so. Which is to say, next to nothing. I do mine with a T-handle allen wrench. Just get it reasonably snug with one hand and you are good to go. Dollars to donuts you had the wrench set to ft-lbs.
Torque specs on drain plugs really don't matter. Mechanically, bolts (unlike plugs) are the same thing as springs. Torque specs for heavy applications (like cylinder studs) matter because you are inducing the correct amount of stretch in the "spring", which translates into the correct amount of force. With a drain plug, you just want to keep it from falling out. There is no critical amount of pre-stretch requiring precise torque.
To solve your new problem, you might get away with using a tap to clean the current threads. Failing that, drill and re-tap the hole. IIRC, those are 3/8" from the factory. Drill and tap for a 1/2" and you're set. Just take it easy putting the new one in!
What's the torque spec on that plug? Probably something like 12 in-lbs or so. Which is to say, next to nothing. I do mine with a T-handle allen wrench. Just get it reasonably snug with one hand and you are good to go. Dollars to donuts you had the wrench set to ft-lbs.
Torque specs on drain plugs really don't matter. Mechanically, bolts (unlike plugs) are the same thing as springs. Torque specs for heavy applications (like cylinder studs) matter because you are inducing the correct amount of stretch in the "spring", which translates into the correct amount of force. With a drain plug, you just want to keep it from falling out. There is no critical amount of pre-stretch requiring precise torque.
To solve your new problem, you might get away with using a tap to clean the current threads. Failing that, drill and re-tap the hole. IIRC, those are 3/8" from the factory. Drill and tap for a 1/2" and you're set. Just take it easy putting the new one in!
#7
07-28-2015, 08:55 PM
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#9
07-28-2015, 09:40 PM
Grand HDF Member
If you pulled the threads right out of the cover waiting for the wrench to click, what you need is to disassemble and reassemble a few lawn mowers or something and learn how to use your tools and get a sense of what things feel like when you use them.
What's the torque spec on that plug? Probably something like 12 in-lbs or so. Which is to say, next to nothing. I do mine with a T-handle allen wrench. Just get it reasonably snug with one hand and you are good to go. Dollars to donuts you had the wrench set to ft-lbs.
Torque specs on drain plugs really don't matter. Mechanically, bolts (unlike plugs) are the same thing as springs. Torque specs for heavy applications (like cylinder studs) matter because you are inducing the correct amount of stretch in the "spring", which translates into the correct amount of force. With a drain plug, you just want to keep it from falling out. There is no critical amount of pre-stretch requiring precise torque.
To solve your new problem, you might get away with using a tap to clean the current threads. Failing that, drill and re-tap the hole. IIRC, those are 3/8" from the factory. Drill and tap for a 1/2" and you're set. Just take it easy putting the new one in!
What's the torque spec on that plug? Probably something like 12 in-lbs or so. Which is to say, next to nothing. I do mine with a T-handle allen wrench. Just get it reasonably snug with one hand and you are good to go. Dollars to donuts you had the wrench set to ft-lbs.
Torque specs on drain plugs really don't matter. Mechanically, bolts (unlike plugs) are the same thing as springs. Torque specs for heavy applications (like cylinder studs) matter because you are inducing the correct amount of stretch in the "spring", which translates into the correct amount of force. With a drain plug, you just want to keep it from falling out. There is no critical amount of pre-stretch requiring precise torque.
To solve your new problem, you might get away with using a tap to clean the current threads. Failing that, drill and re-tap the hole. IIRC, those are 3/8" from the factory. Drill and tap for a 1/2" and you're set. Just take it easy putting the new one in!
#10
07-28-2015, 10:00 PM
Seasoned HDF Member