I decided to change the brake fluid on my new to me 2008 FatBob. Apparently the previous owner decided to have Thor change the fluids last time. All the bleeders were tight and way over torqued. This is not my first brake job, or first bike, and I wasn't using the wrong tools, etc.

When trying to crack open the last bleeder on the front, it sheared right off. It didn't take much force and I was only using a small ratchet. I'm attaching a pic.

Can someone point out a good broken fastener remover set (or whatever it's called) and offer some tips? I found plenty of sets for removing rounded fasteners, but this is obviously very small and I don't want to damage the caliper.

Otherwise I was thinking of removing the caliper and finding a machine shop to have a go at it.

 

it is going to need drilled before an easyout goes in..
Problem is the taper seat in the bottom.. drill too deep and it is junk

if you do not have a decent drill press and a good vice, let a machine shop attack it.. you could try by hand but that is up to you...

 

You can try something like this - http://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-syste...2-56110847a5a6

I use them at work to get stripped and snapped bolts out. Drill in, then use the extractor. That style are the ones I have had the best luck with.
I cant say if it will work for you in this case, but figured I would throw it out there. Good luck!

 

Penetrating oil and (localized) heat might help too. If I can't get a bleeder valve to break loose with a small box end wrench, I apply some penetrating oil and try again later.

 

Go to your local Menards store (or order on line) and purchase a left handed drill bit that is a little bit larger than the hole in the bleeder that broke. You will be surprised how fast that will come out without any damage to the threads!






Description & Documents

This 13-piece drill bit left-hand set is used to extract broken and stripped screws and bolts. It includes: 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 7/64", 1/8", 9/64", 5/32", 11/64", 3/16", 13/64", 7/32", 15/64" and 1/4" drill bits and plastic case.

• Use to extract broken and stripped screws and bolts
• Plastic case

Shipping Dimensions: 6.3 x 5.51 x 3.74
Shipping Weight: 0.6 lbs

Brand Name: Tool Shop®


http://www.menards.com/main/tools-ha...tm?cm_vc=PDPZ1

 

I would think some heat judiciously applied so as not to discolor the caliper along with penetrating oil (all mentioned above) in conjunction with the correct size easy out would do the trick.

 

Thanks guys. I tried PB Blaster at first to get it out, but to no avail.

I have a vice but no drill press at the moment. A local machine shop said it'd be $30 bucks or so to have it removed. I think I'll pass on trying to freehand remove it with an extractor/easy out and just let them tackle it. I'm leery of nicking the sides and rendering it useless.

Anyone know the size of the crush washers off hand for the brake lines?

 

Harley dealer doesn't have the correct size washers?

 

Be prepared to buy a caliper if you drill too deep. I have personally never tried to save an automotive caliper when this happens, but auto calipers are pretty cheap. How much is an H-D caliper?

 

I reuse the copper washers all the time on brake lines.. (have seen aluminum as well, still no problems reusing)