I bought a 7x18 enclosed trailer with 2' v I have looked lots on the forums, how far away from the wall are you guys mounting the chocks also is anyone making brackets for the bottom or is there a removable chock I bought 4 wheel chocks off eBay and am thinking of making some sort of bracket so I can take the chocks in and out. Thanks for any advice or pictures

 

There are removable wheel chocks. I have a pair of Pingle that I have had for probably 10 years in two different trailers. You mount the cleats to the floor they are low profile so you do not stump your toe on them if the chocks are out. You can also buy additional mounting kits so that you could mount them in different locations depending on the number of bikes your hauling
http://www.pingelonline.com/prodcat/...eel-chocks.asp

Pit Posse also makes a set that are less expensive than the Pingle. I have a friend that has the Pit Posse and its every bit as good as my Pingle set. If I was looking today I would save a few $$ and buy the Pit Posse. They also sell separate mounting kits. The same mounting kit will fit with either

As far as how far to mount them from the wall that will depend on your bike. I have always positioned my bikes in the trailer leaving myself enough space from the wall to attach tie downs as well as enough space between bikes. Once I have positioned the bikes where I like, I mark where the front tire is and then mount the chock

 

It is really easy to get to much or to little tongue weight what you should do is weight trailer empty, many grain elevators will allow you weigh your trailer should be weighed without the tow vehicle. Your Harley weight can be looked up.
Add the two together and use a tongue scale move the bike back and forth to get 10-15% of your total weight on the tongue.
Some trailer dealers have tongue gauges

 

Answer to your question is dependent on the with of your handlebars. Pretty simple.

 

I ran etrack where I want my chock .The chock has fitting that snap into the etrack . When I want to remove I just un snap the fittings and out comes the chock . This is not the exact chock but you get the idea .

 

I have a 7x12. The chocks are 22 5/8", on center, from the plywood wall. My OL's Dyna Switchback, fits. Best bet is to pull your bike in and have a second person mark the center of your tire. Allow a little room to tilt the bike to the right, allowing the jiffystand to be put down/raised. This space also permits a little wiggle room, while going down the road.
I was certain to mount my chock's (generic Pingel, removable, in black, iirc) mounting hardware through the trailer's floor angle-iron frame work, squirting silicone caulk in the holes before inserting the through-bolts with fender washers for backing. Same for my tie down points. Bikes won't fit directly side by side, both facing forward. I get two in there, staggered, facing forward. I've never had two dressers in my little trailer. I think that load would surpass my trailer's axle rating. I have had two Softails. A Heritage and a Softail Standard. Usually, it's a combination of a Sportster, Dyna and/or Softails. I put the lightest bike of the two I'm hauling, in the forward chock, which is about 1.5' from the front of my trailer, wherever the framing exists, which dictated the fore-aft placement (not a V-nose).
It's better to have too much tongue weight, than too little. Too little, and you'll get the sway action.
Use bungie cords to keep your tie-down straps, taught. You don't want a hook coming loose. First pic, you can see the black bungies against the blue ratchet straps. Also, I screw a 6x6 to the trailer floor (I installed angle-Aluminum on the ends of the 6x6, making it easily removable with a cordless drill) to support the Switchbacks frame. Tightening the front end until the bike's frame is tight to the 6x6, helps reduce side-to-side sway. I don't use the 6x6 for my Sportster. The back tires are secured by looping a ratchet strap around the wheel/tire, then between two tie-down points, giving it lateral support. In days past, I would strap down at the seat and/or triangulate to the rear frame, but I've found that if I properly loop the wheel, it's very resistant to movement. Still, I check my straps after one mile, 10 miles and every smoke break or gas stop. You can't have too many straps, as long as they don't rub. I use soft-ties and lots of microfiber towels.
If it's a new trailer, and I can't stress this enough, check your lug nuts before departure and every 50 miles for 200 miles. Then, every gas stop. If it's a used trailer, check the wheel bearings/brakes before use, and lug nuts every gas stop. I carry a four-way lug wrench, making it quick and easy.
Our scuba gear, is loaded in front of the OL's bike. Other, miscellaneous crap gets carried in the trailer, too.


There's a corner of the shelving visible, in the top, right corner of the pic.


Here, you can see the OL's windshield bungied to the left sidewall. A 2x6, screwed to the floor, keeps the windshield's brackets from rubbing against the wall.


Soft-ties can be used in series to prevent metal hooks from contacting the pretty parts.




Have fun outfitting your trailer. I've installed 110V plugs and lights and there's a 12V to 110V converter, as well as 12V batteries, waiting to be installed for boon-docking capabilities. I used ventilated shelving, like, for a house's closet, to add convenient placement of the helmets/jackets, while parked, or for some light-weight stuff while motoring.
Happy hauling!

 

Thank you for the input If it rains tomorrow I will be able to get my bike and do some measuring thanks again this forum is great!!

 

I had 2 bikes in an enclosed trailer yesterday for a trackday. Used pitbull equipment.

www.pit-bull.com