Thought I'd share this, found it another site. Probaly the best write up I've read when it comes to #clutch adjustment.
The manual says 1/2 - 1 turn at the clutch pak, some techs say 1/4 turn.
Alot of folks have often asked whats the difference between that 1/2 turn opposed to a full turn.
This should shed light on the adjustments.

At the clutch pack: The adjustment of the nut in the clutch pack alters where the friction zone ends up on the lever on the bars, i.e., clutch lever engages close to the hand grip or almost all the way released from the hand grip. The clutch adjuster screw adjusts the point at which the cable begins to pull the clutch out of engagement. If you turn the clutch adjuster screw clockwise, you adjust toward slippage, if you turn it counterclockwise, you increase the slack before disengagement (drag). If the adjustment screw is turned too far clockwise, the clutch will be disengaged or slip no matter what position the cable is in. If the adjustment screw is too far counterclockwise, the clutch will drag because you cannot, regardless of how much slack you remove at the lever, disengage it enough to remove the contact.

The service manual recommends 1/2 to 1 counter clockwise turn after turning the adjuster screw clockwise to lightly seat the screw.

Following the the procedures in the service manual, with 1/2 turn counter clockwise the clutch will engage further from handgrip as you release the lever. Turning adjusting screw 1 turn, you will feel the clutch engages closer to the handgrip as you release the lever.

1/8 to 1/4 turn of the adjusting screw reduces your friction zone, clutch lever almost all the way out from handgrip before clutch engages.

1/2 turn is the stock adjustment, which is just fine for most riders, insures friction disc separation, clutch disengagement - which provides smooth shifting and finding neutral.

3/4 to 1 full turn, the clutch lever releases close to the grip. May not give you good separation of the discs resulting in difficult shifting, creeping of the bike in gear, harder finding neutral and faster clutch disc wear.

A motor officer will have their clutch adjustment screw turned 3/4 to 1 full turn from being lightly seated to have their friction zone begin close to the handgrip during their rodeo exhibitions.

In effect when turning the clutch adjustment screw; you are adjusting the push tube and setting where the ball and ramps start to disengage the clutch. The release bearing is also known as the throw out bearing (on right side of bike). When you pull in your clutch lever you are compressing the clutch springs allowing the clutch plates to disengage. Imagine a rod (pushrod) pushing on something that is spinning - if there wasn't a bearing (throw out) the rod wouldn't last too long.

At the lever: Use the cable adjuster to increase / decrease slack at the hand lever to about 1/16" to 1/8". Too much slack and clutch may drag / too tight and clutch may slip. If free play between end of cable ferrule and clutch lever bracket is more than 1/8" at the handlebar, clutch may not fully disengage.

Most Harley Davidson lever positions are set at about 1/8" of clutch lever spacing. However, the best positioning of the lever is where it works best for you - as long as it still "works" or gives you the best control over the clutch's operation. There are boundaries you want to stay within. Do not adjust the lever too tight where it will slip, or too loose where it will not disengage all the way. Keep the lever clean and lubricated, including the lever pivot pin.

 

 

On the other hand, Uncle G., who has small hands and small diameter grips prefers 3/4 turn out.

 

@ Mark, you know a lot of us end up picking ur mind and ordering something. Hopefully, I don't need anything for little whiles...heheh
Think I'll hashtag that post for the search function.

 

This should be pinned!

 

This is something I need to do on the GF's bike.

 

Very useful read indeed TF.
On the wife's sporty I allow the clutch to dis-engage at the farthest release point of the lever which allows her to keep pinky, ring, birdie finger and thumb on the grip while index finger's on the lever due to her tiny hands and lack of experience.
I'll allow for more drag progressively as her experience level increases.

When I road raced as a kid, I liked it all the way out. Made power shifting quicker. Not something I need on the street.
Thanks for the write up man.

 

Is there any advantage/disadvantage to having the clutch engage closer to the grip or further out with regards to clutch wear?

 

Less than a 1/4 turn and you won't be able to keep bike still with the clutch lever pulled. Basically have to get it into nuetral before coming to a stop.
More than 1 turn out and clutch wont engage at all. Basically going nowhere.

 

Mine is at 1/4 and pretty tight,,,with fat grips...