Rkc left running for 10+ hours in garage!!!! Help
#91
OP - where were you? That was a long drive for naught. Please send the notarized title and I'll try again. This time I'll have my shipper come by. Also when I receive the signed title I'll issue you a check for a little more than the agreed upon selling price for your troubles. Thanks in advance.
#92
#93
#94
#96
so there I was riding down the road coming home from work to my supermodel wife on my batwing/shark conversion. the bike was running cool what with my twin fans cooling the heads, and the fresh amsoil change in the engine. shifting good with the shockproof too! so I came into this corner just a little hot, so I had to countersteer a little harder, swung just a little wide and almost came face to face with a dumptruck. the driver was on his cellphone! I couldn't believe it. so I stopped, but because my adrenaline was pumping so much, I couldn't complete a U-turn without duckwalking it around. but I got on it hard, and because I had done a rear pulley change, the torque got me moving quick. I saw the dumptruck up ahead. so I passed by him fast and then stopped in the road, and pulled my 45. well, he jammed on his brakes and started getting out of the truck. damn, he was a big sumbitch. well, I had a sudden attack of common sense and knew that bringing a gun to a fist fight was probably a bad idea on my part. so I knew what I had to do. I put the gun in the waistband of my chaps and since I had fingerless gloves on I was able to reach into the pocket of my fox creek jacket and pulled out a handful of nuts and bolts and threw them in his face. while he was busy blocking his face from the incoming shrapnel, I quickly mounted my bike from the right hand side and tried to boogie out of there pronto. uh oh, bike won't start. I had inadvertently thrown my keyfob at him with the nuts and the security was kicking in. good thing I remembered my override code so I punched it in and got the bike running and scooted off down the road trying to find an alternate route on the gps while listening to some good ol stevie ray Vaughan. good thing I had ride on in my tires as before I could get off the main road, I ran over a couple of nails and I would hate to be stuck here on the side of the road with him coming up behind me. finally made it to the house and quickly parked the bike in the garage and had the wife bring me a two finger glass of whiskey while I relaxed on the back porch.
#97
First of all, I agree with most of the comments here: WHY running a bike every week or so during winter stop? No need for that when you prepare your bike well for the winter stop.
That means, change oil and filters, fill the tank completely with gasoline, clean the bike and use Turtle Wax for the paint and a cleaner/wax for the chrome parts. Buy a battery charger which can load also with a low 'maintenance load' and connect it to your battery. To answer your second question about running idle over 10+ hours:
The weakest point in Harley Davidson is the oil temperature during idle running. The oil in HD engines is not only lubricating the bearings but is also applied as 'cooling liquid'. Normally the RK has an oil cooler in front low mounting, but these oil coolers are only working during riding of the bike to maintain the airflow through the cooler. That's why I had installed a 'fan assisted oil cooler JAGG' on my previous bike, the Heritage. The airflow through these 'fan assisted oil coolers' are obtained by two electric fans, thermostatically operated.
The risk of 10+ hours of running is, that your oil became too hot for a good lubrication due to the absence of a cooling airflow through the oil cooler. A Heritage for example applies the oil tank as 'oil cooler', also radiating the surplus heat to the air.
Every motoroil has a maximum temperature for a good lubrication, exceeding this max temperature will decrease the lubrication capacity of the oil drastically.
I would advice to change your oil and pray that your piston rings and cylinder liners are not too much worn out during this idle run of over 10+ hours. The fact that the bike starts normally is no warranty that nothing has been worn seriously. Only a compression test can proof this. The main bearings of the crankshaft and the piston bearings are not so heavily loaded during idling of an engine but when these bearings are sliding bearings instead of roller bearings I can imagen that also here a serious wear could be seen. In the worst case an overhaul of the engine comes earlier than normally to be expected. How much earlier can only be predicted with a compression test of both cylinders as indicators.
That means, change oil and filters, fill the tank completely with gasoline, clean the bike and use Turtle Wax for the paint and a cleaner/wax for the chrome parts. Buy a battery charger which can load also with a low 'maintenance load' and connect it to your battery. To answer your second question about running idle over 10+ hours:
The weakest point in Harley Davidson is the oil temperature during idle running. The oil in HD engines is not only lubricating the bearings but is also applied as 'cooling liquid'. Normally the RK has an oil cooler in front low mounting, but these oil coolers are only working during riding of the bike to maintain the airflow through the cooler. That's why I had installed a 'fan assisted oil cooler JAGG' on my previous bike, the Heritage. The airflow through these 'fan assisted oil coolers' are obtained by two electric fans, thermostatically operated.
The risk of 10+ hours of running is, that your oil became too hot for a good lubrication due to the absence of a cooling airflow through the oil cooler. A Heritage for example applies the oil tank as 'oil cooler', also radiating the surplus heat to the air.
Every motoroil has a maximum temperature for a good lubrication, exceeding this max temperature will decrease the lubrication capacity of the oil drastically.
I would advice to change your oil and pray that your piston rings and cylinder liners are not too much worn out during this idle run of over 10+ hours. The fact that the bike starts normally is no warranty that nothing has been worn seriously. Only a compression test can proof this. The main bearings of the crankshaft and the piston bearings are not so heavily loaded during idling of an engine but when these bearings are sliding bearings instead of roller bearings I can imagen that also here a serious wear could be seen. In the worst case an overhaul of the engine comes earlier than normally to be expected. How much earlier can only be predicted with a compression test of both cylinders as indicators.
Last edited by Bart van der Meulen; 02-22-2017 at 03:12 AM.
#98
two model years. had to make sure that they got the bugs worked out. and i financed it at a great rate so i could use the banks money and then paid it off in 3 months. of course, i set aside a portion of money to act as a 'warranty'.
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01-13-2011 07:17 PM