Every stuck fastener I have encountered on my current bike has been the result of the previous owner using Red loctite on everything. He even used Red loctite on the brake caliper bleeder screws!

My previous bike I bought brand new and was a breeze to work on. It was a 91 Sportster.

Now if you want to talk about difficult fasteners, go work on a Jeep!

 

Snapped the compensator bolt today. Gonna find a machinist tomorrow. I could do it but considering the risk of damaging the crank spline I'll let a pro tackle it.

 

I'm with you Bob. I just meant that I err toward the low side of torque specs because of the decreased drag.

 

For many years I've made it a practice that a day or so before I take on a project I go around and squirt some Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster on all the nuts and bolts I plan to be removing. That gives the penetrant 24/48 hrs. to seep its way in.

Also don't forget that heat is your friend and a little can go a long way in causing expansion and contraction which can help unstick rusted or corroded fasteners.

 

Yup. Very easy to over torque using any thread coating.

 

I've never used Loctite on ANYTHING outside the motor or transmission, and have never had anything come loose. I use anti-seize on the exhaust flange nuts, but I use the Harley-Davidson official flange nuts, which appear to be a slight interference fit, and I replace them when I remove the pipes.

 

the only bike to ever give me trouble was a kawasaki ninja 250r. they literally dip some of their hardware in red locktite becore assembly.

 

That took a lot of torque..probably way over 300ft lbs to break that. You may want to tap it lightly with a punch and small hammer. It may not even be tight unless you were coming off and leaned on it with loctite on it. If so, heat around a quick 550 (map torch) and it will be loose.

Comp is right hand, clutch is left hand threads.