The problem described is not just glazed pads or overly polished disks. Something bigger than that is wrong here.

 

This!

I think most riders agree the front brake does most of the work.

But that does not mean the rear is useless.

As bikerlaw mentions, you should absolutely be able to lock (or activate ABS is equipped) the rear brake.
If you put a lot of pressure on the rear brake pedal and don't feel much happening, something is very wrong.

 

Holly crap your reading comprehension is non existent. Rock on dude

 

I can't remember ever activating the rear abs like I said when I get it back on the road I'm gonna try a gravel road and see if I can get the rear abs to cycle that should tell me something. Would anyone know if I had it on the jack and put it in gear then hit the rear brake should that cycle the abs

 

I would think that computer might be looking at front wheel speed vs rear and thats how it know when to activate ABS. So just running it on the lift might give you a false result. But again not sure on that one.

 

OP: ABS Harley's have to be bled with the Harley scan tool to cycle the ABS system and bleed them correctly. I know others here say BS but that's the deal or they don't work as well (or maybe at all) as they should. Also: Brake fluid needs to be changed every two years as the fluid gets water vapor and reduces the boiling point (great article on this in a recent copy of Motorcycle Consumer News: http://www.motorcycleconsumernews-di...=46&pg=46#pg46).

 

I would have to respectfully disagree with that man. Definitely would not go as far as calling them useless, maybe something like "have small effect and should not be relied up on as a primary brake". But I want all of the available traction utilized when needed no matter how little effect they might have. Thats why I love linked brake system on new bikes. Computers are great at being consistent and precise, abs will apply all the force needed to bring viheecle to safe stop with out locking up a wheel.

 

With all due respect to your mechanical prowess... Why don't you just take the bike to a reputable mechanic for a second opinion. Like, maybe you're missing something - and your safety IS potentially at risk here.

Just sayin...

 

If I can't get it to cycle that is what I'm going to do btw nice glide

 

All folks who think that I am advocating the absence of a rear break need to do his homework in reading. I only mentioned that the force on the rear brakes is much lower than on the front brakes. Therefor, the 'breaking' of the surface of the brake pads on the rotor is mainly obtained the first time breaking with the front brakes. Due to the higher braking forces on that part of the bike. What you normally do with cars (at least here in Europe) is after renewal of your brakepads start driving and make an planned emergency stop. This force will wear off the hard surface of the break pads, we call it 'breaking of the surface'. This is not possible with the rear brakes of our bikes, therefor it is possible (I don'y say: the case) that this new brake pads are not loaded enough to break the surface of the pads during their friction against the rotor. The only thing is dismantle the break pads and take a block with sandpaper and rouhgen the surface of both the new brake pads as the rotor itself. In this way the 'breaking of the surface' is done manually and not by braking. Good chance that the rear brake works properly after. If not, find an expert or a dealer because than something serious is wrong with your system, eg your braking cylinder and/or lines.