I had the baffles punched out on my stock dyna pipes to make it louder until the new vance & hines comes out will this kill anything

 

Fuel injected or carbed? I did the same to my 02 carbed dyna and it just runs a little lean now. Surges when I'm at 2000 rpms or so. No big deal, I just need a new air cleaner and a rejet.

If you're fuel injected you'll need remapped. I don't know much about fuel injected bikes though, just that.

Either way, when you get the new pipes, you're going to need to do something with the air cleaner and jets or remapping.

 

Changing pipes doesn't affect the whole system as much as changing to a high flow air cleaner. On some bikes, changing pipes doesn't necessarily require a re-map or re-jet. Just look for any adverse reaction like increased engine temp.

So how does it sound baffle-less?

 

I punched out the baffle in the stock pipes on my bike, till something better (and the money) comes along.
After a 1000 milesof keeping an eye on the plugsthe only thing that's changed is the sound.

 

I punched mine out and dont have any problems either.

 

I punched them out on my 03 Lowrider and ran it that way for a few months. Didn't experience any problems. Some people have said the sound isn't great with punched out baffles, but mine sounded nice and loud! No whine or high pitched noise.....

 

Denver has the new law with the EPA stamp on your pipes. I wonder if I could put back on stock pipes and then punch them out to get the sound back?

[IMG]local://upfiles/13911/16CDB9F6600A43F8AED338FFB45B592D.jpg[/IMG]

 

Be worth a shot, especially if you still have the stock mufflers. If you don't have or can't find a hole saw. The baffle plate inside the muffler is easy to punch through with a hammer and a big screwdriver.
I did mine in a star pattern, then used a length of 1/2" 13 threaded rod with a 21mm 1/2" socket held in place witha couple of nutsand pushed that throughusing a big hammer to flatten out the raggedy edges.
If the mufflers are off the bike its even easier because you can stand them up on a piece od wood and not have to worry about the socket getting caught up inside. It will just fall out the other end once it gets passed where the plate was.


If you put a plate or a some big washers on the end with another nut. You can use them to limit how far the socket goes in and use the nut to "pull" the socket back out, cause it WILL get jammed in hard enough so you can't pull it out by hand while forming the jagged metal ends.

Here's the main "tools" you need to do the job



This is the pile of "parts" needed toclean up the regged edges. 4 washers, 3 nuts, and a 3' piece of 1/2" 13 threaded rod, grand total cost, about $4.75 at the local hardware store. The socket I already had.



The end goes together like this.



And looks like this assembled.



The other washers and nut go on the end like I said to prevent the socket from going in too far, and to make it easy to get out again. Just use a wrench on the nut and it can be used to "jack" the socket back out.



It took me less than 20 minutes to knock out the plate and another 10 or less to use this thing on them to clean them up.

 

I have the SEII slip-ons and just pulled out the baffles, drilled out each baffle hole to 1" and reinstalled them. Sounds louder at idle and under acceleration it really sounds good. My stock pipes are also "punched out" but, I like the sound of the SEII's better.

 

The new V&H will be epa aproved for the newer bikes that require that.