FLH rear fender issue and the "fix"...
#1
FLH rear fender issue and the "fix"...
It seems my 87 I am working on ...the shocks upper bolts go in from inside the fender. Removal without a jack is impossible if you want to keep the wheel on.
I had this idea that when I put it back together I would tack weld the nut onto the thick permanent washer on the fender and insert the bolt from the outside...I don't see a problem with this, does anyone else?
I had this idea that when I put it back together I would tack weld the nut onto the thick permanent washer on the fender and insert the bolt from the outside...I don't see a problem with this, does anyone else?
#2
When the nut was originally on the outside, it likely had a nylock insert. In any case, that nut and many others are "taller" than a bolt head would be. Add to that, the possibility that some threads of the bolt may stick through the end of the nut.
Clearance issue!
First time you hit a bump, you could be shaving the sides of the tire.
Clearance issue!
First time you hit a bump, you could be shaving the sides of the tire.
#3
^ ^ ^ ^
Mine are that way, already. Johnny. But as he posted, DOUBLE check your FULL clearance, before you do the actual welding. When I went from 130 to a 140, had to get the grinder out to 'shave' a li'l length off 'em. BUT, works GREAT, for me.
I pop my bags on and off, at will. Same with 'other' fender/strut mounted attachments. And I keep the short bolts to fill holes after removal, in the tool bag.
I have used JB weld, before, too. But they will 'let go' with enough vibration.
I jus' "tacked" them on 1 'land' (flat side) of the nut, to facilitate easier removal, should that day dawn. Plus that keeps the 'heat' to a very minimum. BURNT PAINT !!!!!!!!!!
.
Mine are that way, already. Johnny. But as he posted, DOUBLE check your FULL clearance, before you do the actual welding. When I went from 130 to a 140, had to get the grinder out to 'shave' a li'l length off 'em. BUT, works GREAT, for me.
I pop my bags on and off, at will. Same with 'other' fender/strut mounted attachments. And I keep the short bolts to fill holes after removal, in the tool bag.
I have used JB weld, before, too. But they will 'let go' with enough vibration.
I jus' "tacked" them on 1 'land' (flat side) of the nut, to facilitate easier removal, should that day dawn. Plus that keeps the 'heat' to a very minimum. BURNT PAINT !!!!!!!!!!
.
Last edited by Da Gumpmeister; 02-09-2010 at 09:55 AM.
#4
When the nut was originally on the outside, it likely had a nylock insert. In any case, that nut and many others are "taller" than a bolt head would be. Add to that, the possibility that some threads of the bolt may stick through the end of the nut.
Clearance issue!
First time you hit a bump, you could be shaving the sides of the tire.
Clearance issue!
First time you hit a bump, you could be shaving the sides of the tire.
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