Another question??? The only loctite or permatex red available here in town is 271, which has a higher break/prevail than the 262 that other posters are talking about. Again, my book doesnt mention any for the comp bolt, just the clutch hub.

Is the 271 a suitable alternative, or should I wait a week for 262? I am just now pulling the cover, I was trying to get all my supplys in place before the stores closed here so I am still not even sure if the bolt is loose...

 

Well the bolt was not loose. This is my first time messing with a compensator, but, I first put moderate pressure trying to turn the bolt out (counter clockwise) to see if it was loose. The bolt would turn a little bit along with the plate behind the sprocket. I am assuming that this is exactly what the compensator is supposed to do? Once the play was taken up it didnt want to budge with moderate pressure. I didnt want to take it out if it wasnt loose.

So..I reversed the locking tool and put my torque wrench on the bolt, set at 155 ft lbs and again once the play in the compensator was taken up the wrench clicked before the bolt turned.

Anybody with more experience wanna chime in and tell me if this sounds right?

 

The 271 will do fine , just make sure to clean & dry everything well with some BrakeClean , a couple drop's will do . The 262 is a more serious industrial application it's overkill for automotive uses . Specs are about the same but the 262 will a take lot more to remove when needed like heat and a for real high end air impact ( 450+ ft lbs range ), HF ones won't touch it . The average home compressor & economy 1/2 air gun only hits around 160 to 195 ft lbs torque maxed most the no names guns are under 160 lbs .

 

Im wondering if the compensator itself is shot... I can turn the bolt and rotor without the sprocket turning close to an 1/8th of a turn. And it stays there, not springing back to center.

If I turn it clockwise to take up the play, it stays there until I turn it counter clockwise, and vice versa. Anybody got an idea?

Im not trying to take over this thread,(I am not sure what is hijacking and what isnt) Im just trying to get some answers. I did start a new thread but it seems more people are reading this one.

 

If everything is tight but still knocking I'd look at the splines on the rotor behind the comp. assy. Since HD cheesed out on them about 15 yrs ago and cut the boss down almost 1/4" those go pretty regular .