Years ago machining capabilities were not as accurate as those today. Cylinders and pistons were not as close to perfectly round and seating rings took longer and was more important.
New engines are run (initial break in including seating the rings), and tested before they leave the factory. Most dealers do a shake down ride when they prep the bike.
All recommended procedures I've seen recently for seating rings were similar and all took less than an hour.
The break in procedures for new vehicles (avoid high RPMs, vary speed etc.) are for proper break in and seating of many other moving parts.

 

Thanks for the info, but I will keep my method as it has served me well for more than 30 years. Any motor I have built or re-ringed has given high miles service! Everyone has their own way and what works for them is OK. I change oil at 50 miles, below 50 m/h for 100 mi., and baby for at least 500 mi.s. Change oil again at 100 and 500 then every 2000. Oil is cheap compaired to engine rebuild. I don't build for stop light to stop light racing, so my builds do last. But then, I treat my bikes like they are mine and not just a piece of metal.

 

Bullshit or not, it's worked for me. I have no leaks, excellent cyl pressue, and don't use a drop of oil. 20k miles on my 103" making 114/120. Used motoman method for break in and had an excellent dyno tune done. Gets mid to high 40's for mileage on the freeway with a 30 tooth trans pulley too.

Zach

 

Here is a page out of my Dodge van manual on breakin. They also recomend full throttle for short periods.

 

A new bike engine has been "run in" at the factory, before released for sale. Seating rings, as per the article, is for "overhauls," and is what many gurus recommend. When installing new rings in a new overhaul, warm the bike up to operating temperature, roll on the throttle hard several times, and your new rings are seated. Baby it, and you'll use oil forever.

The only thing I would add, is let the engine cool down before re-torqueing and setting tappets, etc.

http://www.americanrider.com/output.cfm?id=1054261

Break-In The only parts of your new 95-inch Twin Cam engine that need break-in are the piston rings and the cylinder walls they run on. This can and should be done in a very short time and over a short distance; a few minutes and a few miles, in fact.

The precision of the Wiseco bore job, their pistons, and the rings are such that only small initial wear is required to properly seat the rings. The proven best way to accomplish this is to load the rings against the walls of the cylinders by accelerating at full throttle. Here is how you go about seating your new piston rings:
1) Do not start the engine until you are ready to ride the bike.
2) After starting, quickly get out on the road and into third gear.
3) Accelerate at full throttle from 30 to 60 mph in third gear.
4) Close the throttle and coast back to 30 mph.
5) Repeat this full throttle/coast procedure a total of 10 times.
6) The rings are now seated and you can ride normally.



Been there, done that.

 

You got it! Figure another 30-50 miles & you're good to go.

 

Rode the **** outta my Road King the day I took it home. Next day I went on a 2500 mile trip. Runs like it should. Doesn't use a drop of oil.

 

well my breakin procedure is leave indy @ full throttle to home and then ride some more and of course full throttle then park back at home and she is broke in

 

+1 ride the Sh*t out of it!

 

I did the 30 60 10 procedure like MNPGRider described on my new 2010 FXDC. Not sure if it will make any difference, but I figured what the hey, in theory it makes sense and couldn't hurt. After that I just rode it normally.