Ok, so I've got 92,000 on the 2002 Heritage and on my second set of tensioners. The conversion to the newer setup is going to run right at $1000. Is this about right and a worth while investment?

 

Yes, if you're having it installed.

Your cams need looked at and may need replaced by now though too.

There is the gear drive option, ( in that you've got the hot forged crank with the Timken Lefty bearing,) and it's more money and work, but you get new cams with that choice. That's the direction I took at 81,000 miles earlier this year, and loving it.

 

Is it worth it? Kind of a personal choice I would think. I bought a used 04 Road King earlier this year. At this point the bike has about 18000 miles, and I plan to do upgrade to hydraulic over the winter. Premature? Most likely. But I figure I will do it now and not have to wonder anymore. Plus it gives me an excuse to swap cams while I'm in there. I'm also going to do the work myself and I am hoping Santa will bring me some of the parts. So for me, it is worth it.

 

I should think that it would make more sense to have either the hydraulic upgrade or even a gear drive conversion done if you are paying someone else to do the labor. IMO this is only because the labor becomes such a significant part of the cost of doing this. If you are doing it yourself, then technically (I suppose) the labor is more or less free. Periodically replacing the original tensioners at say 20,000 mile intervals may actually be the better deal financially. It looks like new tensioners (P/N's 39954-99 & 39964-99A) can be had for $52.12 each plus shipping, versus about $450 for the hydraulic upgrade. So using my Farmer Math that means that the break even point; if I'm doing my own labor, is about 4 X 20,000 plus the original 20,000 or 100,000 miles and then after replacing the tensioners at 100,000 I've got still another 20,000 until I need to do it again.

 

I've got the 204's in there now. Had the 95" build done at 10,000. I'm not comfortable and not as patient as I use to be to go and start tearing into the twin cam. back in the 70's i would tear a pan or the early shovel down and put back together just for chits and grins. Of course back then all you needed was regular wrenches and sockets.

 

Thats alot of money to spend for no "real" reason. I say this because your bike does not seem to have any issues with "eating" pads or premature wear.

I am on my second set of tensioners on my 2006 FLHX. I installed cams last winter and replaced the shoes since I was in there. I was at 25K and the tensioners looked to have a lot of life in them. I will check the new ones at 30K.

I am in the "if it aint broke - don't fix it" camp. Your bike does not sound to be "broke" so the 1K can go to good use elsewhere. If my tensioners looked bad, I would have given thought to the Hydraulic conversion, but I do not see the need to at this point.

 

You have tons of miles on your bike I would say just go the cheap way. And by the time there gone again ur bike will have 150,000 miles

 

My .02....

Is it worth it.... HELL YES... in fact, it should be considered MANDATORY.

Here is the problem with gear drives.....crank runout. Unless your crank pin has been welded and trued, this is a PRIMARY concern...in fact, if it isn't welded, or you're not going to weld it...skip the gear drives.

Here's why:

As the crank turns, it "wobbles" a bit. This is "runout". As it increases, on a gear drive, it makes the gears in the gear drive which run straight and true, "fight the wobble".... it binds and gets loose it it turns.....after awhile, the gear that is binding and loosening, will break, then catastrophic engine failure results. To avoid this, you must have a welded crank pin with minimum runout.

So...I suggest the hydralic cam tenshioner upgrade.

The ones your bike came with are.....****.

They should have never left the factory with them. Borders on criminal in my mind.

So, upgrade to the new cam chain arrangement, and skip the gears until the wheels are welded and trued.

I know....gear driven cams are totally badass !!! ('ive had them,...the best..... S&S 510G's in a "hot" 88 )......but are damn dangerous without a prepped crank.

Hope this helps.

~Joe

 

i am doing the kit,worth while, it comes with a higher volume oil pump as well!
i have mine,just have to install it!

 

I installed 26Ns and 95" kit in my '04 RK last winter. The bike had 48k miles on it and the original tensioners didn't look too bad. The hydraulic tensioners are a slick setup but if I had wanted to save money, I would have just replaced the original tensioners and felt OK about it. If you're going to pay someone to do it, go with the hydraulic tensioners.