When buying a battery it is one thing to buy a cheap one, it is another to just get a great deal at the time. Stay away from cheap batteries, they use cheaper separators and wire in the plates that cause them to short out and not last long. This causes a drain with nothing running on the battery until it dies.


AGM technology is a tighter fit inside each cell and tends to use better separators and wires in the plates, in theory these batteries should last longer. Gel cell batteries are another good option. The reasons these are better are due to vibration. Your standard battery has gaps in each cell, and the constant vibration can cause the wires to bend and puncture the separator causing the drain. The better the internal components the better the battery. Manufactors for start stop technology (turns off the vehicle when stopped then starts when you hit the gas) are using AGM due to load demand from the starter constantly cranking the engine on. Lithium is excellent and light weight, but the automotive manufactors do not believe it can handle the heavy demands of cranking an engine, talking about cars and trucks not bikes. AGM batteries are going to become a lot more common due to fuel mileage restrictions, so you will see more of them, but they are pricey for now. Should drop in price in a few years as the technology pays the R&D cost down.

Not all lead acid batteries are sealed, even for bikes. Sometimes you have to fill them, and then put a cap over the holes but those can leak, and they can also leak where the cover meets the container if not melted properly. For vehicles I check this area when buying a battery. If you by a standard lead acid battery, pay attention to the warranty, the longer the warranty, usually the better, it means the manufactor is backing them longer, and took steps to use better seperators, framed positive plates, and thicker plates in general. There are still a few things that can be done to make the batteries last even longer like framed negatives, but this is a cost and size issue. Positive plates are usually thicker then negative plates. Ok my head hurts and I just got off work, enough of battery talk for now and more beer.


Yes I make batteries for my civilian job. Personally I like the AGM and Gel Cell, but I will use the traditional battery if it is a good one, as long as it isn't made by excide, they make cheap crap (not me).


I can't tell you what brands to buy, most are the same company anyways. Just use your best judgment. I'll post this in the general area since this is the time of year most buy batteries for motorcycles.

BTW Deka are HD AGM batteries. Deka makes the batteries, and it is almost the same design as Johnson Controls if your talking about the current line of AGM batteries. It is a good design when you talk about AGM but it does cost more to produce them, especially since you have to compress the plates and seperator (a glass mat), and stuff them in the container. They expand in the individual cell, and the liquid used is fully absorbed, making them last longer and can take a larger load.

If your Motorcycle will not start remember to start cheap.
-Check accessories, IE heated gear...
-Check your connections to and from the battery. You may think it is tight but a little more could mean the difference.
-Corrosion Check, clean terminals, the cleaner the connection, the more solid the connection.
-Check your recent electrical mods, ie wires, pin connectors, chaffing locations.
-Check your battery for a short with a voltmeter. Disconnect the battery and see if the volts drop every few seconds with NO LOAD on the battery.
-Have an auto parts store do a load test.
-Now start thinking about replacing the battery

Dead Battery if a battery is completly dead
-Remove the battery, leaving the battery on while jumping or heavy charging can cause damage to your bike, IE eleltrical system and battery boom boom.
-Charge battery at lower amps to between five and eight hours probably between two and five amps. Then move to larger amps for up to 48 hours.
-Caution, charging a battery produces gas, which you can sometimes smell, no sparks or smokes, could be hazardous to your health. If excessive or hot, stop!
-Dead batteries lose up to half their life if not all. You may want to start looking to replace.
-Try parallel (positive to pos, neg to neg) charging, not series. This maintains 12 volts not 24. Sometimes a little juice is needed to get started, more common with AGM batteries.
-Speaking of AGM, there are specific chargers you can use that will say AGM on it.
-If the battery has been dead awhile, it is almost certain you have a paperweight.

Charging a Lead/Acid battery is the same as we know it. Basically to charge an AGM battery that is dead or extremely low, you should hook it up to another battery in parallel then charge, once the charger can read the AGM battery you are good to go to charge the AGM battery. As stated previously, many of the new chargers out there have an AGM setting (recommended); mine has a Gel setting too. The brand name is Schumacher.

Battery tenders are your friend, you don't have to use them daily, but you should at least monthly. I use mine at least weekly. These are intended to maintain a battery.
Battery Tenders are also called float chargers; they are a low voltage charger with a brain to maintain a certain level. Then after the battery is charged to the specified level, it checks and maintains this level, keeping your battery fresh and extending the life. There is no evidence today that you cannot use a battery tender on the three main batteries, IE Lead/Acid, AGM, and Gel.

 

Thanks. The only one id buy is a gel. Never used a AGM. Maybe a spiral cell like the optima. Who wants a acid dripping battery anyways.

 

After a lot of reading for the price and performance I decided an AGM was the way to go. Lead Acid batteries and tried and tested over many years. I'm not saying the other batteries aren't good, but I am saying that I'm not going to risk it until I see a lot more reviews on batteries such as the ballistics. Pretty sure lead/acid batteries are sealed anyway. I've never had one dripping car, truck, van, motorcycle etc.

 

ATV's, UTV's, bikes, all I install is Deka's

 

Not all lead acid batteries are sealed, even for bikes. Sometimes you have to fill them, and then put a cap over the holes but those can leak, and they can also leak where the cover meets the container if not melted properly. For vehicles I check this area when buying a battery. I had one that leaked and told them to send it back, I hope they did.

On a side note, most lead acid batteries are made by hand and machine, a person is suppose to check the quality at each step, but remember we are still dealing with humans, and some people just plain suck.

 

Maybe they are all sealed now but they used to breath and you had to add distilled water periodicly especially if you had charging issues.

 

They have an AGM line, leak proof, and made in the USA. Nice choice. Don't make them but I like the specs.

 

I just replaced my battery with a Interstate Megatron. I hope (from what I have always heard they are) a pretty well made battery ..?

 

Are Odyssey batteries any good? I need a new battery for my BMW. A number of sites I've visited say this is a good alternative to the stock battery.

 

I'm blessed, my son works for Interstate, free batteries