I have a 2005 Road King with 18000 miles on it. I have K&N filter and early SE Slip Ons. I recently upgraded the cam chain tensioners and cam chains and added a set of Andrews 37N conversion cams which are the largest cams I can put in the stock engine. I have a Vision tuner and so I wrote to them with my specs and they sent me a tune which worked pretty good but had several flat spots so I decided to take it to a Harley shop that will tune with my Vision tuner. They spent 7 hours with it and the most they got out of it was 57.68 HP and 73.77 torque. The Hp number isn't even as much as a bone stock TC88. The bike starts and seems to run strong but I am wondering why the low numbers. They advertise these cams producing close to 80 HP on a stage 1. Anyone else with such small numbers.

 

I have no numbers to back me up, but I know the 37s I put in my '04 really woke it up. This was before the 98" kit. I just had the FuelMoto PCIII and Longshots at the time. I put them in at about the same mileage as you also. Those cams come in a little later in a stock 88", I didn't really "feel" them til around 2500 or so til I bumped the compression with the BB kit. Now it rips all the way. I would have to think your tuner missed something. JMHO. I'm gonna do heads this winter then a dyno tune.

 

I don,t waste money Dyno tuning a street Bike . It all about how you think it runs .

 

Getting noticeably improved performance out of any internal combustion engine takes a lot of planning and work. (as well as knowing what you are doing) A lot of money can be thrown at an engine with no appreciable results. Get Donny Petersen's book "Performancing the Twin Cam" It will really lay it out for you.

 

Right up front, I know little about dynos. But in my limited understanding they can vary quite a lot in the 'numbers' they produce for a given engine configuration.

Are those stats referenced to the 'rear wheel', or the 'crankshaft'?...would be my initial question. (But like I said, I'm a dumb-*** when it comes to this stuff, so maybe there's a better question to be asked, first).

I recognize those numbers as being low, for your setup. Either your bike's broke--seat-of-the-pants should tell you...or there's something about these readings that's not obvious from your post. Maybe you can post some particulars about the dyno run setup, so that people who know about this stuff can comment...

Alan

 

Did they do a baseline run of Ur bike??? Without one U don't really know what U gained or didn't gain.

A dyno turn is just a tool to make Ur bike run better.

The numbers Ur get can vary all over the place pending on Who, How, When and Where its done.

Don't get too hung up on the No's. No two dyno's will produce the same No's.

First, can U feel the difference,?? does U bike start and run better.?? Did Ur Oil temp drop.??? Are U getting better fuel mileage.??? All of these should happen when U add cams and get a good tune.

As far as the seven Hrs labor. If they knew what they were doing, U should have gotten a GREAT tune.
How many runs did they make during the tune,???

Our tuner who' been tuning for 25 yrs and has done thousands of tunes with the SE tuners can do a really good full tune in 2 -3 hrs.

Also who ever told U that the 37's is the biggest cam U can install is wrong.
Lots of other cams have more lift and are still a bolt in.
Really, U don't want just the biggest cams, U want a cam to match U motor build and Ur style of riding. Big difference in choosing the right one and the biggest one.





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Interesting approach, I think taking the time to have maps built on the dyno specific to the bike produces better results than canned maps. My bikes are both good illustrations of that principle. My stage II 103 runs very well as does my 06 Street Bob with the 120R and not just on paper.

 

I have 70hp & 82ft./lbs of Torque, stock 88" w/K&N air filter, HD Screaming Eagle Tuner & V&H straightshots true duals. No cams or anything.

 

Eff the dyno bro. Only way to know how mods change your bike is to run it at the strip before and after.

You can program a dyno to give you any numbers you want it to put out. A buddy had a dyno pull done on a stock bike to see the difference between stock and after mods. Dyno tuner said no way his stock bike is putting out stage one numbers, till he figured out the rear tire was much lighter than a stock tire. All he said was "I can fix that" he never put the bike on another dyno after that if the tuner can change numbers like that. FWIW that lighter tire in of itself cut .3-.4 off his quarter ET, same as a stage one will do. I always tell riders I know the cheapest stage one they can do is dump the overly heavy way too hard stock tire for a lighter better gripping tire. Works every time.

Eff the dyno. Hit the strip up next time the sun is shining instead of breaking out the garden hose to wash it.

 

I agree with the poster that said you really should have checked for improvement on the drag strip AND you should have taken a baseline somewhere back along the way using the same guy and the same dyno.

Having said that I am not a fan of the 37 unless you know about compression, possible headwork upgrades and fooling around with advancing the cam timing using this cam.

Most guys like you that have a stock 88B and don't want anything but to get rid of the EPA stupid cam simply opt for the SE 204 (for HP) or the SE203 (for torque).

Somebody tell me here if I have given out BS advice but that's my story and I'm sticking to it until better brains persuade me otherwise...