Open pipes = poor gas milage
#1
Open pipes = poor gas milage
True...Big Twins need some back pressure also some way to break up that reversion that'll eat horsepower...I was told years ago to use this very cheap and reliable way to cure this...if you are running tapered or turn out drag pipes, cut them off, the slash and turnout that is, optimal length of pipes is 30" then 3" from the end drill a 5/16" hole then put a nylok nut on a 5/16" bolt in from the inside ( the nylon will melt to secure it,) install the bolt from the inside the upside down nut will conform the the curvature of the pipe then add another nylok nut to the outside. Larger pipes I would weld a lug nut to the head of the bolt then center as best you can in the pipe...this will give you just enough back pressure and eliminate the reversion by breaking it up...I did this on my 83 FXWG when I modified it with .510 cam wiseco pistons and S&S heads...to both 1 3/4" and 2" drag pipes...the 2" added a mountain of torque but a twist in 4th gear on the highway fell on it's face, in that situation I would downshift to get the rpm's up...then hang on...pictured are the 2" pipes
You will have a noticeable difference in torque and performance without sacrificing the sound we all love...
You will have a noticeable difference in torque and performance without sacrificing the sound we all love...
Last edited by Tech Slap; 03-10-2014 at 09:26 AM.
#2
I've heard this myself. Seeing just a washing making a difference, reminds me when I looked in my pipes at the baffles. They were more of a sleeve, with barbs.
#3
I've been kicking around going back to this with my BR pipes.
I miss the no baffles setting off car alarms from 40yrds away.
I know it's childish what can i say everyone has their flaws.
I miss the no baffles setting off car alarms from 40yrds away.
I know it's childish what can i say everyone has their flaws.
#5
DKCustoms makes a nice more advanced version of that for about $25.
http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/Thun...nserts_c57.htm
http://www.dkcustomproducts.com/Thun...nserts_c57.htm
Trending Topics
#9
I have V&H Short shots with no baffles installed on my Deluxe and personally, I never noticed a difference between the stock pipes and these pipes.
I read the entire page on this website and although I'm absolutely sure this trick works to help bikes suffering from HP/torque loss, without unlimited access to a dyno, it seems to me that getting the most out of it would be impossible. I highly doubt the average person can feel a two to three point change in HP or torque in real world application. This seems like a trick for those guys who walk around showing everyone their latest dyno run sheets.
I'd rather chop my pipes and live with the results. The never ending pursuit for that last possible HP just limits the amount of time I'm actually out riding and enjoying my bike.
I read the entire page on this website and although I'm absolutely sure this trick works to help bikes suffering from HP/torque loss, without unlimited access to a dyno, it seems to me that getting the most out of it would be impossible. I highly doubt the average person can feel a two to three point change in HP or torque in real world application. This seems like a trick for those guys who walk around showing everyone their latest dyno run sheets.
I'd rather chop my pipes and live with the results. The never ending pursuit for that last possible HP just limits the amount of time I'm actually out riding and enjoying my bike.
More info here....
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/exhaust.htm
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/exhaust.htm
#10
I have not had my bike dyno'd, but I do know that after a cam change my open Longshots did not help rideability. Installing the Thunder Torque Inserts made a world of difference in how my bike ran. Any baffle to produce a bit of backpressure would've helped, but for the money, the TTIs can't be beat.