I've been running the Revolution performance ems system, an auto tune system that doesn't require a dyno tune. You send them your ecm and they make corrections based on a number of specs from your bike, and they install theoretical VE and timing tables, and using wide band O2 sensors, the bike will auto tune itself. I worked fairly well, had a pull done, and it was 105 and some change with 110 TQ. Mileage was good 38-40, and granted the bike did run acceptable. but lately I've had some decel backfiring, and some slowness at lower rpms, and I was just getting unhappy, knowing how I built it, It should have had better numbers with better performance. Not a numbers bragging guy, (My HP is bigger than yours!!), but my butt dyno wasn't giving the green light to my riding. So I went to a place here in san diego, and had it tuned, got it back today and it really runs leaps and bounds better. Low rpm acceleration is a huge difference, bike runs smoother all thru the power band, and is really a lot faster. Don't have any gas mileage numbers yet, that will come this weekend. but , even though the dyno is done, the auto tune is still functional, and will continue to make adjustments from the baselines my tuner set. very happy overall, heres my sheet:

 

Cool. Amazing what a good tuner can do isn't it?

 

I'd get rid of the "auto tune" my guess is it will NOT help the tune, it will only hurt it.

 

Those are good numbers. I have a power vision with autotune pro. FM107 kit installed last year, never had dyno tune and it runs like a top. I wanted to do a dyno pull this year but worry about the outcome. If it is less than what I expect, another disappointment lol.

 

I'm in the same boat as you. Did the AT pro setup and the bike runs great but don't want to do a dyno pull and see just how bad a tuner I really am.

Charlie
Good numbers you got there. I've always wondered how the EMS would stack up against a actual tune. Did you have to buy another tuner in order to get the dyno dun? From what I understand about the EMS you can't tweak the tune yourself you have to send the whole ecm back to revolution performance correct?

 

I don't want to rain on your parade, but your dyno graph does not look right. In a properly formatted dyno chart, HP should always be higher than torque above 5252 rpm. This is because a dyno can only measure torque. HP is a mathematically derived figure. The formula is: HP= RPM x Torque and then that figure divided by 5252. That's why they cross at that point.

I'm glad that your bike runs better, but I question the validity of the dyno graph based on the above. Did they give you an explanation as to why the chart is not in standard form?

 

not always. it depends on the cylinder heads and the work done, valve size and cam profile. altering the runners and changing the intake size will make the difference at above the 5252 mark. I have even seen a graph where the lines don't intersect ant that mark. Bike ran like crap, and never did find out what the owner had screwed up. the graph is correct for my bike and the difference will be cams and head work. (woods 700-6, and Mackie head work with 2.160 intakes, 1.65 exhaust)

 

Happy motorin'!!

 

also if you look, th HP is higher than torque after 5252

 

I'm a math guy. Something seriously wrong with your equation I think.