issues after dyno tune. ir temp gun readings. hot jugs switch.


one year ago I buy a new 13 road king cvo. stage one with screamin eagle super tuner pro. vance and hines Power Duals head pipes. super trap mufflers.
when new I had dealer install this stage one. never had an issue with the canned tune from the original dealer.
I go to another dealer for a dyno tune. now the bike at idle, shuts off a cylinder and runs rough (limp mode?). it happens on cool days driving around town with no traffic and no stop and go riding.
I use my ir temp gun and find the temp near the spark plug is 315 front, 265 rear. the front head pipe glows red. the rear runs about 50 degrees cooler.
I take it back to the dealer/dyno shop and they make adjustments.
after the dealer adjustment, the cylinder temps are reversed with the rear now running 40 to 50 degrees cooler than the front. 265 front and the rear cylinder saw 350 degrees just cruising around country roads. the bike went into limp mode again but with less frequency than before.
why the 50 degree difference between cylinders?
why did the front first run hotter, then after adjustments the rear now runs hotter?
whats going on?
best regards

 

You either have timing issues, a serious intake leak, or the fancy nancy computer took a **** .

 

What's wrong is going to the dealer. They are restricted to EPA regulations as far as how rich they can tune the EFI system. The bikes are very lean from the factory, and the dealer can only go so far to tune it out. It also sounds as if the guy "tuning" your bike doesn't have a clue. Find an independent tune shop.
Hillside Performance in Munnsville, NY can help you.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...tfZoDIsGOtB_pg

 

Quality advise.

Better off running a canned map than most dealer tunes.

 

I don't know that I believe that. Reason being they have no problem whatsoever changing out the head pipe to one that has no CAT in it. That alone is a EPA violation. I believe he just got someone that doesn't know how to tune.

I have virtually the same set-up except I'm running V&H Hi-Output slip-ons. The guy who did my tune, at the dealership, first tuned one cylinder, then the other cylinder, then both cylinders together. It runs a lot cooler than it did and runs like a top.


Maybe not related, but for some reason I've been seeing a lot of people turning off their EITMS. The day I got mine tuned, they sold over 17 bikes that day. Several of them, and some of the guys getting bikes serviced, wanted to know how to disable it and was shown by the staff how to turn it off. Not sure why, and the staff didn't know why they preferred it off either. One speculated that some people who upgrade their bikes from factory stock have some issue with it. Since it is only designed to keep heat from the rider, and doesn't have any real benefit to the motor, I turned mine off too.

 

What dealershiptuned yours?

 

Myers-Duren here in Tulsa.

 

UPDATE
Yesterday i rode on interstate 84 and 87 at a constant 65 mph. after about 40 minutes i stopped and took ir temp readings. front cylinder was 265, back cylinder was 315. 315 is too high for a day where i needed a jacket and riding a constant 65 mph..
i began to drive again and hit stop and go trafic, after 5 minutes it goes into limp mode. i pull over and get temp readings of front 315 and rear 370 degrees after only 5 minutes of stop and go. this bike now borders on unusable.

 

Put it back the way it was

 

I would suggest quit doing temp checks and ride the damn thing.