Just wondering if using a straight edge and feeler gauges is an accurate enough method for checking brake rotors for warping. I dont have a dial indicator and using a pointer and spinning the wheel doesnt seem to be that accurate either.

 

Answered my own question. Took a 5 gal bucket. Put the straight edge on top with a weight on it and ran it parallel to the rotor. Pushed it in to the outside 1 inch of the rotor and made sure it was square and touching the rotor. Very slowly turned the wheel and kept a 5 thou feeler gauge on top. In a couple of places the 5 went in snug but a 6 was a no go. Not as accurate as a dial indicator I am sure. But I am comfortable that it wasnt far enough off to matter. The spec is 8 thousanths.

 

If your getting any front end shimmy, if its front your working on I would replace. Have found the front single rotor slightly tweeked on a heritage with just 20k on the bike. Rears don't usually bother, at least so you would notice, just replace pads before they get into the rotor and ride it!

 

Thanks. It was actually the rear. I had a hell of a time getting the rear wheel back on the bike even with the pads removed and was afraid I might have tweaked it. So I wanted to make sure.

 

Sounds like you got it. That's great!

It is a hand full to align things and get tire and wheel into place. I have taken a small piece of plastic tubing that fits over the brake bleeder, run to a can, just crack open the bleeder enough to push the caliper piston back. This should allow you enough extra clearance making the instal a bit less of a struggle. Good time to consider if brake fluid should be changed as well. Caution, you may have to bleed system when opening bleeder to be sure of no air in the system when everything is in place. Be sure if doing that to use the recommended brake fluid for your bike.

 

Yeah. I had put a larger rear pulley on to lower the gearing. It required a spacer. (I was told) That made getting the wheel back in with the axle spacers something that made me close to homicidal. And after it was done I discovered I did not need the spacer and got to do it all over again. But with the pulley spacer removed it was a piece of cake. Good tip about pushing the pistons back in the caliper bores. That would have given a little more room to operate.

 

I lay mine on a surface plate.

 

That is certainly best. I was checking it on the bike.