My bike is a home built. 04 New Twin Cam with stock Harley primary components and clutch. 6sp Rev Tech tranny. I have a dilemma with adjusting my clutch.
It shifted fine when I first built it a few years back and has been in storage. Yes, the clutch dried out and seized. I had to disassemble, soak friction disks in oil and reassemble. I do not remember how I adjusted clutch originally, but knowing me, I went by the book.
Now, if I attempt to adjust by the book and turn adjuster screw to firm contact backing off 1/2 turn, after adjusting lever to proper slack, I cannot pull in the clutch lever...at all. I have to turn adjuster screw in to the point that disks separate a bit and all slack is out of lever. Any attempt to bring disks in contact with each other at rest results in no clutch at all.
I have to turn screw in quite a bit to find neutral resulting in considerable disk separation at rest. I don't want to burn up a new clutch. Any suggestions much appreciated.
The bike has about 7 miles on it.

 

Do not adjust for slack before adjusting the clutch. Make the clutch lever as loose as possible with the cable adjuster (screw the adjuster together), make your clutch adjustment (loosen jam nut, run the screw in and out a few times, thread in until seated, then out 1/2-3/4 of a turn, tighten jam nut) then adjust the cable to proper slack. Good to go.

 

Thanks df
That's exactly the procedure I use. That's why I'm baffled. I even disassembled
cable side cover to inspect ramp ***** and insure they were in place. Everything there good as new.
Still can't get any clutch lever at 3/4 back off. 1/2 back off yields only fractional movement of clutch. I have to screw in adjuster a couple of turns past first snug feel to completely engage clutch and stop creep and shift back into neutral.

 

Sounds like the cable is already in the pull position when you're adjusting the ball and ramp. I have seen several people who didn't realize the cable was out when adjusting. After loosening the cable and the ball and ramp, be sure to push the cable in from the lever side so it moves the ramp lever back in the cover - then adjust the ball and ramp - then adjust the cable.

To really be sure - unhook the cable from the lever and push toward the release, adjust ball and ramp then hook up and adjust cable.

 

Thanks Ed.
Right now I've had too many rum and cokes. It's dark outside and the skeeters are out.
With aftermarket handlebar controls and a RevTech 6spd, which I've heard horror stories about, I'll try this in AM.
I've pushed the cable back slack as far as it can go with maximum slack adjustment to no avail. I haven't unhooked cable entirely yet. But, that's starting to make sense. This I will try. I've tried everything else.
I've read many threads RE: 6spd issues requiring snugging in well past first snug contact of adjusting screw. This makes no sense to me unless a 6spd Evo tranny somehow doesn't quite gee haw with a twin cam stock clutch. I was beginning to think the push rod was too short.
My initial thoughts are this procedure puts me back to over-pressure when clutch lever is reconnected.
But, I will shut up and try your suggestion tomorrow.
Thank you, Sir. Have a great evening,
Go Gators.

 

Yep. I have to be totally forthcoming with my hat in hand. It was even worse than that.
I removed cable entirely from lever housing, removed right side cable cover from tranny to view ramp as I pushed cable in as far as it could go. I marked the ramp positon on inside cover and disconnected cable from ramp. The ramp was a full 1/4" from full rest.
This tells me when I first built bike I didn't go by the book and over compensated with clutch adjustment screw to get clutch engagement. That was 12 years ago. Thankfully I locked it up in the tractor shed until I retired so I could have a new bike as a retirement gift to myself. No idea why I had that much of a brain fart. Probably reading threads from people with revtechs saying they had to over adjust. Who knows? Sorry Revtech, if I disparaged your name.
So, I guess I'm headed to Barnett's web site to order a cable with 1/2" longer throw to be safe.

 

I have seen this several times. Usually the symptom is a very hard pull and the lever never really has that nice feeling of pulling over center (overcoming that point where you know / feel the spring released)

The key is to get the ***** in the deep part of the ramp when doing your jam nut adjustment. Then you get the release as they go up the ramp.

 

Well alrighty then. thanx Ed.

Glad I hadn't called Barnetts yet. I woke up this AM and realized that I wasn't accurately measuring for slack without cable sheath installed in clutch lever housing and lever installed. After hooking it all back together and rubber banding the lever to grip so it would stay in, I found I was a full inch too short from ramp with ***** bottomed out. This tells me my cable is 1" too short.
I'll wait for your response before ordering cable. Please let me know if you think my methods are wrong.
Thanx again.

 

easiest way for you would probably be to look up Mark at baker drivetrain. He's all over the transmission section in this forum. I bet he has seen this before and can help you source the cable if need be. Use search and enter Mark Baker

 

Thanks...will do.