General Topics/Tech Tips Discussion on break in periods, rider comfort, seats and pad suggestions. Tech tips as they become available will be posted here.

Red or blue (loctite)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #11  
Old 01-16-2017, 08:13 PM
Uncle Fuzzy's Avatar
Uncle Fuzzy
Uncle Fuzzy is offline
Road Captain
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: PacificNorthWest
Posts: 654
Received 67 Likes on 61 Posts
Default

I pulled some front rotor bolts and they had green on them, which I understand is supposed to be between blue and red in strength. Anyone ever use it?? Bolts broke loose with a breaker no prob. I have removed pulley bolts that were put on w red that required an impact to get break loose. No heat and no damage to the threads.
 
  #12  
Old 01-16-2017, 08:15 PM
Uncle Fuzzy's Avatar
Uncle Fuzzy
Uncle Fuzzy is offline
Road Captain
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: PacificNorthWest
Posts: 654
Received 67 Likes on 61 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by IdahoHacker
If ya screwed up and used red, and there's no easy way to get heat on the nut/bolt/screwhead without risking damage to surrounding finishes, here's a trick: use a soldering gun.

Put the tip on the head of the fastener, give it 30 seconds or so, maybe a bit less if it's delicate paint, let it heat soak a minute, and give it a try.
This is a good tip.
Thanks Idaho
 
  #13  
Old 01-16-2017, 08:35 PM
borno's Avatar
borno
borno is offline
Novice
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: MD
Posts: 21
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

there are different types of red locktite and they call for the 262 red for some of the engine assembly. I am sure to use what they say inside the motor. I don't think it is quite as permanent as the more commonly used red type.
 
  #14  
Old 01-18-2017, 05:13 AM
grbrown's Avatar
grbrown
grbrown is offline
Club Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Bedford UK
Posts: 45,435
Received 2,852 Likes on 2,419 Posts
Lightbulb

Just by chance I have discovered that on the H-D website Shop they list two Loctites, both in red bottles:
  • 243 has a blue stripe on the label and is described as 'disassembly possible with hand tools',
  • 262 has an entirely red bottle and label and is described as 'permanent high break away' and requiring 'localised heating and hand tools' to disassemble.
So I think we have an answer at last!
 
  #15  
Old 01-18-2017, 08:14 AM
LQQK_OUT's Avatar
LQQK_OUT
LQQK_OUT is offline
Seasoned HDF Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: East Coast, USA
Posts: 5,359
Received 1,563 Likes on 1,082 Posts
Default

Here is the attachment I had referenced in post #9.
A basic chart of the threadlocker properties.
 
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
ThreadlockerProperties.pdf (54.8 KB, 235 views)
The following users liked this post:
Muffbrorick (01-19-2017)
  #16  
Old 01-18-2017, 10:54 AM
Yankee Dog's Avatar
Yankee Dog
Yankee Dog is offline
Stellar HDF Member

Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Brighton, MI
Posts: 3,173
Received 1,729 Likes on 927 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by IdahoHacker
If ya screwed up and used red, and there's no easy way to get heat on the nut/bolt/screwhead without risking damage to surrounding finishes, here's a trick: use a soldering gun.

Put the tip on the head of the fastener, give it 30 seconds or so, maybe a bit less if it's delicate paint, let it heat soak a minute, and give it a try.
Yes, this works but be patient for the heat transfer, also can heat up a socket with a propane torch and then place it on the nut or bolt for a few to heat sink the bolt and soften the thread locker...YD
 
  #17  
Old 01-18-2017, 12:14 PM
Imold's Avatar
Imold
Imold is offline
another old guy

Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frozelandia, Minnysota
Posts: 27,066
Received 4,614 Likes on 2,726 Posts
Default

Another thing about using any kind of Loctite - don't soak the threads with it, a drop of it about a quarter inch below where the threads engage is plenty for about everything, regardless of color. I've pulled many that someone had just covered in red, and if it's in an area where you can't use one of those high temp heat guns, about the only other solution is to put a small bead on the bolt top with a mig welder to get the needed temperature. I've even seen guys use an acetylene torch on big bolts (way bigger than a Harley has). You can strip the threads off going cold with an impact on red soaked bolts.
 
  #18  
Old 01-18-2017, 12:23 PM
JesseDyna's Avatar
JesseDyna
JesseDyna is offline
Road Warrior
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: CA
Posts: 1,416
Received 312 Likes on 228 Posts
Default

Anything relating to engine or internals or where called for - blue.

Anything relating to accessories on the bike - purple. I'll take my chances. No problems yet.

Never yet experienced anything where I would resort to red and it would be only if called for in the service manual.
 
  #19  
Old 01-18-2017, 12:27 PM
Imold's Avatar
Imold
Imold is offline
another old guy

Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frozelandia, Minnysota
Posts: 27,066
Received 4,614 Likes on 2,726 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by JesseDyna
....
Never yet experienced anything where I would resort to red and it would be only if called for in the service manual.
I can't remember any other than the two big nuts under the primary cover and rear pulley bolts. And I only used one drop on those. I've never had a loctited nut or bolt come loose, either.
 
  #20  
Old 01-18-2017, 03:28 PM
Sc0-'s Avatar
Sc0-
Sc0- is offline
Road Captain
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: houston, tx
Posts: 520
Received 35 Likes on 32 Posts
Default

Another thing about the red stuff, it acts as an abrasive. So if you remove it at a later date you have to soften it with heat and then clean all the old residue prior to reassembly or it will ruin threads... Also, Loctite and plastic don't go well together as it is possibly it will cause cracks.

Everything on the Harley gets blue, some things get red, and very few things get green.
 


Quick Reply: Red or blue (loctite)



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:44 AM.