Hello to everyone I am new to forum and was wondering if anyone could help me out. Ihave a 1993 FLHS with stock lifters, stock pushrods and an Andrew EV46 cam. Ill try to shorten this I had a knock, the knock got louder and I eventually lost power. I did a bit of trouble shooting and eventually took the rocker boxes off, removed pushrods and cam cover. Upon inspection I had the 2 rear cylinder lifters severly damaged a piece of the tappet housing broke off and the lobes on the cam are pretty scared up. I found the broken piece and it fit perfectly back in the housing. There where roller bearings from the lifters and some ground up fragments in the case area. I cleaned everything by cleaning and with magnets. I drained the oil thru a magnet (no fragments there Thank God) Also did the same with oil filter and oil pump screen no fragments. So far so good I'm not a mechanic at all. I am now ready to put it all back together ( heres where I need the help) I bought a rocker gasket set, cam cover gasket, a new Ev46 cam, crane adjustable pushrods, new rear tappet housing, 4 stock harley lifters and a cam bearing. A few things I never marked or noted the position of the cam before I removed it any tips on that? Do I have to replace the bearing the cam goes into? I do have a shop manual and probably should have read it. When I do some of it seems vague maybe because its written for mechanics Thanks for any help!!!

 

Follow the shop manual instructions.

Yes, the inner cam bearing should be replaced with a Torrington B138 Bearing, do not use an INA brand bearing.

If the dealer sold you a INA brand bearing, bring it back and get the Torrington, if the dealer does not have one, you can get one from any good independent Harley mechanic.

Yeah, it doesn`t hurt to have a peek inside the service manual...

But at least you are not afraid of tearing into the engine, good for you.

The more you use the manual, even for simple tasks, the more familiar with it you will become.

It is the same for any type of machinery shop manual, you must not only learn to work on the machine, you must learn how to use the manual. Once you become familiar with the shop manual, you will realize that there is no substitute (Clymers, Haynes etc.).

Good luck on the rebuild, and keep us posted on your progress.

 

You really need to be certain you have all the bearing parts. With out spliting the cases you are taking a gamble. Every piece needs to be accounted for and the pasageways need to be flushed. Good luck.,,

 

How would lifter parts get from the cam chest to the cases?

If they originate in the cam chest, they must go through the pump, back through the filter before getting sent back through the oil pressure side.

If a small fragment miraculously made it past the oil pump gears, it would be caught by the filter.

 

If you counted the bearings, you're good. Unfortunately, you can't be sure of the particles. I agree that flushing the oil tank with kerosene or solvent, and blowing out all oil lines with air will help, but what about the lower end? Could there be particles in the bearings, or scoring on the cylinders. Could some particles have migrated to the top end? Food for thought.

 

How would they get to the top end or into the cases from the cam chest?

They must have a path...

From the Cam Chest, the path is through the pump, then to the filter.

If it was a cam bearing failure that would be another story...

 

You can turn the engine over to get the pinion gear pointed up to the 12 o clock position and line up the cam and breather. The cam is either right or 180 out, but with the stock ignition firing both cylinders at the same time, the 180 out doesn't apply. If you remember what position the timing cup was in at removal, you should be able to get the cam right. Also, you should use the original cam gear on the new EV46 or check the backlash IAW the service manual. I replaced the cam bearing with a torrington 138, but didn't replace the cam bushing in the cam cover. There are a lot of threads describing cam replacement and push rod adjustments if you use adjustable pushrods. I used adjustable pushrods and used red locktite on the flat surface of the locking nut. Seems to be holding up well. No problems.

 

Oil pump gears easily pass particles, and the thermostat bypass valve on my stock '92 Evo provides direct path. Enough said. Thanks for trying...

 

Oil pump gears easily pass particles, and the thermostat bypass valve on my stock '92 Evo provides a direct path.