I have a small custom made 5x9 trailer with 10" rims. Would that be enough to haul my street Bob?

 

I used one similar to haul my '96 Electra Glide to Florida and back to Indiana ... made the trip with no problems ... I now have a single bike trailer with 14 inch wheels and it pulls a lot better

 

You really are providing very limited information or maybe greater understanding of your question is required.
For example:
Trailer tires have a stamp with the load rating (max weight) and you can read that on the tire.
No mention of the number plys on trailer tires (B , C, D rated).
An axle will also have a weight rating.
We can not see the trailer so we have no clue if it has a mesh floor, wood floor or no floor.
Zero description provided so we have no idea if there is a wheel chock for front tire.
Ramp , no ramp...how are you going to load it?
There is no explanation of tie downs or if the trailer has a rail either.
Basically is reads as it might be long enough and you have some kind of 10 inch tires.
What are you pulling it with?

 

IM is asking you good questions and these are the same questions that you need ask yourself and verify before loading up

I love trailering and the ability to trailer has let me keep the wind in my face as I cannot do the long 8-10 hour rides anymore. But unless your trailer, axle and tires are designed to haul the load your pulling...well you most likely be in for some very frustrating and possibly dangerous times ahead

Another thing to keep in mind, that 10" wheel and tire will be running close to twice as fast as your tow vehicles tires 70 MPH =140 MPH for those 10" tires

 

I have a trailer with D rated tires.
D rated has 8 ply's, most folks have less expensive and lower B (4 ply) or C (6 ply) rated tires.
Basically they go to Walmart and buy a common tire wheel combo that fits the wallet.
The tire size on my Trailer in a Bag unit has an 8 inch rim with a 5.7-8 tire.
That tire size allows easier storage in the trunk of my car since it is a portable single motorcycle trailer...similar to Port A Chopper trailer. You assemble trailer and disassemble as needed but it fits in the trunk of a car.
Rather neat trailer.
Most folks mention the wheel/rim size of a trailer but rarely mention the tire diameter/ circumference, road contact patch or the ply rating.
For example:
In my case the rubber diameter is over 17 inches, actually reported as 18 inches but rides on an 8 inch rim.
The tire is rated for 1075 pounds but rim is rated for 910 pounds so the rated load should not exceed 910 pounds per wheel.
In my case i have double the tire capacity for the load.
Basically if you look at a car that has an 18 inch rim, outside edge of the rim would be the center of the trailer tire.
The tires are not the cheap ones you see on common lake trailers.
No issue with highway speeds with bike loaded for over 12+ hours straight.
Tires are as warm or less warm as the vehicle tires and bearings are not hot.
But then again the bearings were designed for 7,500 RPM that equates to something a bit over 350 mph at this tire size.
My trailer was designed by an engineer.
I try to show and explain it to folks but somehow a few still feel better with the less expensive B rated 10-12 inch rim tires that usually have a smaller road contact patch, always have less ply's and most times have a lower load rating.
For some reason people just look at the rim and forget everything else.
Here is a link with a video that would explain it better.
https://www.etrailer.com/Tires-and-W...a/AM30153.html

 

Oh, and regardless of what trailer, tire or wheel combination you use.
Make sure that you have a lug wrench that fits the lug nuts, a GOOD spare tire and something to lift the trailer.
Amazing the number of people that do not take care of a trailer and their load.

 

also remember that the weight of your trailer counts when figuring your max payload.

I use my trailer 20-30 times a year and do not want to be one of those people on the side of the road trying to change out wheel bearings or blown out tires.

in 5 years of trailering my bikes and trikes, I have yet to burn up a wheel bearing or have a blowout that was not due to a Road Hazard.

I setup my trailers to never exceed 60% of max capacity, I use D-rated 225-75-15 Radial Trailer tires and lube the bearings every 2K miles of towing.

For my trike I bought a 7'x12' tandem axle trailer. The trailer weighs 1975 Lb's, The trike weighs 1310 Lb's. That's 3285 Lb's of payload of a #7500 Lb's before any additional gear. That's about 45% of total capacity with no additional gear.

IMO...running a trailer over 75% of designed capacity for extended periods of time, at Hyw speeds can present issues, but that's just me and my **** self

 

CVOJOE that sounds like a very nice set-up and agree with your %.
I did not have the storage space at home and destinations so i had to search, research and study until i found something that would work for me.
Did not have a truck either.
My single bike trailer weighs less than 200 lbs...yes 200 lbs unloaded.
It serves only one purpose so it is limited in function.
Bike weighs close to 750 lbs with fluids etc.
For a total weight of 950 lbs or less when the bike is loaded on trailer.
It offers no storage space other than bike so it comes in really close to 50% of design tolerance when loaded with one Road King.
Rims rated 910 lbs+ 910 lbs = 1820 lbs so 950 lbs / 1820 lbs is about 52%
*Tires are rated higher but you need to go with lower rim numbers
Axle spindles rated 2,000 lbs.
Rather neat unit that can be pulled with just about any car, even seen pictures of one big bike pull another smaller bike on such a trailer.
Good discussion, very few people run numbers and just look at things.
They see a big trailer and think YES but they do not run the numbers.
Original poster has not returned so who knows what they have.
Hopefully they do not end-up broke down on side of road.

 

Hey IM,

That sounds like a really cool setup. Can you post some pictures? I would bet this forum is full of folks that could use a setup like yours.

 

The Trailer in a Bag (TiB) is no longer available but below is a link to get an idea.
Just look at old Trailer in a Bag information and video.
I believe the inventor for TiB passed and the patent is no longer active.
Basically made with 2 1/2 inch and 2 inch square structural steel so it is very strong.
Mine has the mandatory (my opinion) aluminum floor boards that makes ride-up loading and unloading easier.
Also mandatory in my opinion was the Condor chock.
You can see the TiB information but it would seem like the site is now promoting The Stinger Trailer as an alternative.
Link for Trailer in a Bag : http://motorcycletrailer.com/tib/
The Port-a-Chopper unit is very similar but has torsion suspension.
It has no floor boards available but it should not be difficult to make some.
Link for Port a Chopper: http://www.portachopper.com/
These units are basically made out of the same square steel tube that is used for a hitch.
I would say the walls of the tube are mostly 0.25 inch thick no seam structural steel.
The neat thing about the TiB is that it fits in the trunk of cars...about the size of a big suitcase and two back packs.