You can also try the v4.77 103 cals , with the cubes reset to 96.7 in the tuning constants

I do that all the time to accomodate cam changes etc etc if there's not a 96 cal to suit.

They're all 176AF.....

For what it's worth in my experience , all V&H straight pipe systems can be hard to totally negate the decel popping , and they're not the best for roll on torque neither

 

Here is the timing map in jpg format. If you would zip your current file you are editing I could put timing maps in it that will work and send it back to you. If you can edit it you can save it and send it. You are right about it being weak on timing. The only thing I see on the VE tables is it is a little lean in the idle area on the front cylinder. Would probably respond a little better if you richened it up from idle over to 15% and from 500 to 1250. Everything else looks fine. You don't have to go all the way to 24 if you don't want. That is just where I put all the maps I build. Some of the canned maps for SEPST are there also.

 

I don't have any problem attaching maps for PCIII, PCV, Power Vision, SERT, SEPST, or TTS. Problem I have is attaching a map I don't have. I can also create pdf files. If you would send the file you are wanting advice on it would make life lots simplier.

To get rid of the Decel pop you need to make the numbers in the Decel table smaller by about 0.2. It is already pretty low. The lower the numbers the richer. Also your front VE table is lean in the area where your decel is happening. Make it look like the rear VE in that area and decel will probably leave completely. All bikes have a small decel pop in the 1900 to 1800 rpm area if decelerating with the clutch engaged. It is transitioning from run conditions to idle conditions and cuts the timing and injectors off for few milliseconds if the throttle is fully closed.

The AFR table in the first two rows over to where the 13.8 starts should be around 13.8 back to 0 throttle position. Also you aren't running in closed loop in the cruise area which is 30 to 60% throttle and 2000 to 3500. I would set that area to about 14.3 or .4 max. I wouldn't run any numbers other than the cruise area above 13.8 as it will cause the engine to not cool right in low speed cruise. Also advancing the timing will help run cooler.

The start timing is all the way to the right in the 100% column in the 750 to 1000 area. Usually runs anywhere from -4 to +6. If it hesitates/kicksback it is usually too fast or weak timing. The start spark like I said is in the 100 Kpa as that table works from the Map sensor reading. At Wide Open throttle you are at 0 vacuum and that is also what the map sensor sees when the engine is not running and the ignition is on. It may move back to the left as the vacuum will build some on the starter but not much. You can change that area to 0 if you like and see what happens. The 10 in first row won't likely help anything.

As far as my thoughts, everything except the spark tables and AFR looks ok. The VE tables are ok except where the front table is too lean. I usually set my VE tables below 2000 and don't change them with the autotune. You can do it on stock engine, but I always seem to run into difficulty if I follow the datalog below 2000 with cams as it will want you to lean it too much. AS low as your timing is in idle area below 2000 it will think it is rich and try to lean it out. The VE tables are what are adjusted to change the mixture. The AFR tables are targets for closed loop. You said something about being at 100+ on the ve table and need to richen the afr table to compensate for that. They will go to 127 which is as rich as they can go. If you want to check this out change your VE's on front and rear in the idle area 0 to 15% throttle and 750 to 1250 rpms to 95 and watch what happens when you start it. Don't change your afr tables. If you need more proof change them to 60 in that area and it probably won't even run there. Put them back to where they were then change your afr to 14.6 which is lean in same area and observe what happens. Then change it to 12.5 which is very rich and see if you can detect any change. On a dyno with active AFR control it will make a difference, but not on our map.

 

Ok. I have made the changes to the VE and the decel maps. I have also made the changes to the AFR as well, but the map that you included and the comments you made on the values are slightly different. I have included excel file with a renamed extension of docx. Just change it to exe. Can you make the changes you are recommending? Thanks

 

Remember 2008 and up cals from the Supertuner ( SEPST ) are no good to you directly

TTS MT6 cals may be of use , as they are a direct descendent of your v4.77 cals

You can get your dongle "upgraded" to TTS current spec if you choose by posting the dongle to TTS.

In my experience "original" v4.77 cals work well in up to 2008 bikes , indeed my own 2008 CVO Springer is still on v4.77 using MT6 calibrations.

I find the Springer more "flat" on the TTS cals , but "smoother".
The original SERT cals are noticeably "gruntier" but "rougher and more ready"

 

You can't get it upgraded anymore. They stopped this year.

 

You sure are making it difficult. I ask you to send your map and I will make the changes to it. Also exe is not an excel extension. EXE is an executable file extension that loads programs and installs them. It may open with that extension but that is good way to load a virus. You have enough info to get what you need. I am smelling a rat or troll.

 

Sorry. No Rat or Troll. The file extension is xls. My bad. I put the values from your AFR map jpg in my SERT map. I was just confused as too what was in the jpg as apposed to what you had mentioned in post 13. The attached file is a spreadsheet of my AFR map. Can you make the changes to it? Thanks

 

Here is the AFR table that will work. You can modify it as you like. You need to concentrate on the VE and Timing tables and not worry too much about the afr tables as they are target tables. They will make a difference in MPG and how cool the bike runs in the low speed area.

 

Thanks RW. I'm going the adjust the VE's as mentioned by making the front match the rear. I also inserted the Timing table sent in post 12. I understand how to adjust the VE's, but how will I know if the Timing needs adjusting besides data tuning and watching for knock? And I'm not talking the decel area at 100%. I understand that as well.