At the risk of sounding like a complete Boob, which, I readily admit, I am;

I have no experience with Tuners.

I took delivery recently of a new 2014 SG 120r. The dealer provided me with a tuner. It's a n SE Super Tuner. I'm reading a lot here about tuners, and I'm learning, but a lot of the information here is provided by those much more experienced and discussing topics that are beyond the realm of my capabilities.

This is my first Bagger, my first large cube motor beyond an EVO, and my first EFI, and my first foray into Tuning. Yes, I guess I'm a total newb.

What should my first steps be as far as Tuning? I have a rough Dyno, the bike is in its break-in period, it has 300 miles on it so far.. I'm to return to the dealer at 1000 miles, for fluids and a final Dyno. My intentions are to change the fluids at 500 and I'll take it to the dealer for a Dyno at 1500.

I don't know what I should maybe be doing with the Tuner? Is that just for the dealers use? Can I utilize it? I'd just like to understand what it is I need to be aware of and what I need to do soon or later down the road.
Thanks ahead of time for any advice.

 

Do nothing with it. The tuner is used to for a computer (desktop, laptop whatever) to communicate with the ECM on your bike. It's an interface. IF you bike is running without issue just do your break in as planned, take teh SE tuner with you when you go in for your final tune. Unless you want to get into more advanced things like datalogging and stuff, you will only need your tuner when you need to make adjustments to the MAP in your bike so don't lose it.

 

Take the bike to the Tuner/Dealer of your choice or find out who is comfortable tuning the bike with the SE unit. There is no need to wait for another 700 miles. He can finish the break -in procedure on the Dyno which is a tried and true process. At 300 miles your bike is more than likely already broken in. Unless you're real familiar with computers and fuel charts and such, I'd leave the SE tuner to the pros.

 

I believe I would take it back at 1000 for the final dyno rather than wait for the extra 500 miles as it may be more beneficial to go ahead and get the mixtures right. The 120 is high compression and has lots of cam in it and needs to be right. There is an old saying about a motor lasting a long time "It doesn't make enough horsepower to tear itself up" That saying isn't about a motorcycle. Well the 120R doesn't fit in that category. Not trying to scare you just giving my opinion. You will probably be ok at 1500, your decision.

 

Do as your dealer suggested, why do anything different? Take it back at 1k miles and ask them for the literature that came with your SE tuner, so you can read and better understand it! There should be a users handbook or something similar. Your bike and SE tuner will be much happier if you ride and enjoy the scenery and don't worry too much about them!

 

All you get with a SEPST is the VCI and the box it came in. It has directions on how to download the software on it. In the software you can click on the training on the right side of the main panel. Many hours of excellent video and printed script from the video. Very indepth. You can also click the help icon on menu bar and it is very good also. Be prepared to spend some time. The videos explain the function of the ECM and all the sensors and how they fit together. It also explains tuning manually, using smart tune on dyno or as a stand alone.

 

Thanks for explaining that. As you might guess I don't have one, but H-D accessories normally come with comprehensive instructions.

 

Good Advice

 

My dealer marked mine with my tag number. Its married to that bike and only good for that bike. That is a shame. Something Microsoft also does.

 

I’d like to ask a question here. I purchased a bike that hasa lot of engine work done to it but I did not get the tuner when I bought thebike. I didn’t know I needed it. The previous owner is MIA and the dealershiphas no info. What can I do now to be able to dyno tune the engine? Can I buyanother tuner and start over?