Hey all! This is my first post as I'm a new member, so please let me know if I didn't do something right.

So, I've been restoring a basket case shovelhead, 74 FLH, with 80ci jugs. Got her running and took her around the block for the first time a few weeks ago. While I got the timing roughed in pretty close, I would like to use a gun to fine tune it, BUT, the issue is that when I put the acrylic view plug in the hole and fire her up, I get a wash of oil over the window and obstucting the view of the marks.

Of course, the book says nothing about whether or not the bike should be running while on a kick stand vs. upright to avoid oil washover, so one thought I had was to start the bike and then either put it on the jack or have someone hold it upright while I use the light, to see if this would resolve the oil washover, but I haven't tried that yet...

I've read where people statically time their big twin shovels due to this issue, but according to my official HD service manual for the bike, it says that static is good for a rough in but it still needs to be timed with a timing light. So, question is:

1. Is there something that I'm not doing right that's causing the oil wash over of the window?

2. Is it necessary to use a light?

3. Is static timing the norm on setting the time on these old shovels?

Thanks for your help guys! Look foward to your thoughts and suggestions, as I couldn't find anything on the forum that specifically addressed this oil washover issue...

 

I usually just static time them. Using the method below(borrowed from Shovelhead USA Forum. With the plastic plug you need to screw it in all the way until it touches the flywheel the back it off just a little bit. I also paint the timing mark with some yellow paint to help see it.








Here is statictiming for points on a '70 and up Shovel in a nutshell...I'm gonna' tell ya' both ways...basic statictiming in the "retard" position...and statictiming in the full "advance" position which requires a slight modification:

First, set you point gap to .018". Check it on both point cam lobes...the closer you can get it to equal the better, but the factory spec is within .004 of each other (but you can get it within .001" if you take the time to fully center the advance assembly on the end of the cam).

Once the point gap is correct, bring the FRONT cylinder up on it's compression stroke...if you aren't sure, you can be sure by collapsing the front intake valve pushrod cover and watching the lifter...as you're pushing the engine through, that lifter will come up as the intake valve is opening...then it will go down as the valve is closing...when it's down, your front cylinder is coming up on it's compression stroke. Stop there!

Look in the timing hole on the primary side of the bike (remove the plug first!)....VERY slowly, bump the engine over a bit with the kicker (or put the rear wheel off the ground and with the bike in high gear use the wheel to move the engine)...you are looking for the TDC mark on your flywheels (stock flywheels up through early 1980 have a small drilled dot low in the timing hole for the TDC mark and a vertical line for the advance mark....after early 1980 the factory changed the TDC mark to the vertical line...how's that for STUPID!)...when you find the TDC mark, position it so it's JUST inside of the timing hole...you want the back edge of the TDC mark touching the back edge of the timing hole, understand?

OK, no go back around to the points. Connect a 12 volt DC volt meter with the negative lead to a good ground and the positive lead to the wiring terminal on the points....or use a simple test lamp wired up between a ground and the points. Turn on your ignition switch. When the points are OPEN, the meter will register 12 volts or the test lamp will light. When the points are closed, your meter will zero out or the lamp will go off.

You want to set the points plate so the points are JUST BARELY beginning to open at the leading edge of the narrow lobe on your points cam. Turning the plate counterclockwise retards the timing, turning it clockwise advances it. As a starting point, loosen the ignition plate screws and turn the plate ALL the way counterclockwise so it's fully retarded and the points are closed (no voltage at meter or test lamp is off)...slowly turn it back clockwise until the very instant the meter shows battery voltage or the test lamp lights...STOP!! You want the points to BARELY be opening...so little that you almost can't "see" it...but you'll know they're open because of the meter or test lamp energizing. Lock the plate down. If you get it just right, you'll be able to just touch the top point with your fingertip and make the meter or light go off, then come back on as soon as you remove your finger.

Verify that the flywheels didn't shift, the TDC mark is still in the leading edge of the timing hole...all set. Put the timing plug back in, put the point cover back on...have fun.

That's it for the basic "static time in the retard position". Now, on to lesson number two, how to modify your point plate so you can very accurately time in the full advance position...which is a better method:

Look at your point plate....you are going to drill a single 3/8" hole in it. First, you want to use a magic marker or sharpie to mark the general location of the hole. You are gonna' want to locate this new hole at the 7 o'clock position of the point plate, halfway between the outer edge of the point plate and the inner edge of that hole in the middle where the point cam sticks through. It doesn't have to be 100% exact, just eyeball it and put a little dot where you're gonna' drill it.

REMOVE THE POINT PLATE OUT OF THE ENGINE!!! DO NOT drill it in the bike!! Take it out and drill a nice 3/8" hole right through the plate. Once it's drilled...now you can put it back in. Install it in the engine and you'll note that you can now see the advance weights through that hole...not only will you use that hole for timing the bike in the advance position...you'll also be able to use that hole to squirt a little lube on the advance weight pivot pins every once in a while!

Timing is basically the same as described above, with a couple of slight changes. First, set the point gap as described. Then roll the engine over until the front cylinder is just coming up on it's compression stroke....now look in the timing hole and find the front cylinder ADVANCE timing mark on the flywheel, locating it exactly dead center in the timing hole.

With that timing mark centered in the hole...the small lobe of the points cam should be coming around towards the point rubbing block. The idea is you can now put a small screwdriver or scribe or awl through that 3/8" hole you drilled in the plate, using that tool to move the advance weights outward to the full advance position.

OK, now you're ready...this is just a little teensy bit tricky. What you need to do is move the advance weights "out" so the advance assembly turns the points cam to their fully advance position and hold 'em there (sometimes it helps to have a friend hold 'em, but you can do it all by your lonesome, just practice). Once the point cam is twisted to its fully advance position, you want to points to be set to where they are just beginning to open the points. Turn the points plate until the points rubbing block just makes contact with the leading edge of the points cam...the very second the test lamp comes on (or the meter registers 12 volts) STOP!!. That's what you want...lock the distributor down. To check it, turn the points cam to its fully advanced position and when it stops the lamp should just come on...the points should be barely open...you should be able to just touch the points with your fingertip and make the lamp go out. It may take you a couple of tries to get it exact the first time, but with practice you'll find it only takes a few minutes for the entire process.

Using the "advance" static timing method....you CAN ACCURATELY time any points ignition. I have done this too many times to count over the past 30 years...and have confirmed with a timing light...it is as accurate as it gets. If you have a very high compression engine...you can slightly retard the timing by moving the advance timing mark halfway between the center of the timing hole and the front edge of the timing hole (towards "front" of the engine)...this will retard your timing about 2.5 degrees more than stock and it will reduce the potential for detonation, yet still run and start just fine.

Print it out and give it a try...it's easier than it may sound. The key is to take the time to ensure the points are JUST STARTING to open at the leading edge of the points cam...this applies to both static timing methods, either retard or advance.

 

Thank you Gary 80! Just what I was looking for! I like your idea of painting the mark! Never thought of that... also, it's indeed possible that I didn't have the window in far enough, so I'll check that out too... Will keep this awesome set of instructions handy! I may end up needing to go down this road... Thanks Man!

 

If you're using the clear plug screw it in until it "wipes" the flywheel

 

Hey thanks Larry! Appreciate it. Yeah, that's what I'm using. I think maybe that was my issue... I didn't have it screwed in enough. I'm going to give that another go. Funny but I have no memory of doing this back in the day... so not sure what I did then! Too many cocktails since then I guess LOL!

 

Do this to see marks

 

Modify a pair of slip-joint pliers to advance the timing cam while static timing. Just grind the jaws so that the pliers will reach around the retaining bolt for the cam. Then use the pliers to turn the cam to the advanced position.


All you are doing with the light is verifying that static timing was done right. You won't have to use the light but a few seconds. Forget the clear plug. Screw it or the metal plug in hand tight. This will keep the oil in while you start the bike, get the light, and get into a position you can see. Once you are ready to take a reading, take them out. Most of the oil comes out when the bike is first started, so there is not that much oil coming out. Shut the bike down and reinstall the plug. Then clean up your timing light with a rag. You can wrap Saran Wrap around the timing light and you wont get oil on it.