How could a 405 cca battery test at 450 and need a charge? They had it set to wrong position for checking your little battery. Two place told me my old Harley battery was OK and it was weak.. Did you charge it before taking it in?
Anyone who tells you off the cuff you need a stator is the last person you want to listen too.
Yes, that is the biggest problem that causes it to kick back is a weak battery. When it's weak it cranks because the motor is hitting and then takes little effort. However, when one of the cylinders kicks back a little, the starter has so little strength, it lets the motor kick back. That slaps the primary chain and the compensator slack the other way.

 

Had it tested a third time at Harley.

Good Battery
Voltage 12.59
Measured 412 CCA
P/N 66010-97C
Charge Time 00:15:19
Amp Hours 1.3 AH


Advanced Auto

Good - Recharge
Voltage 12.36
Measured 491 CCA



I'm starting to think I'm crazy.

 

My '09 would do the big clank(bang) from the compensator, sometimes sneeze out the intake, and did the hesitation on startup.

The binding and banging is hard on the battery, and on hot restart the weak battery seemed to make it bang worse.

I bought the bike a few months ago with just 2,700 miles on it,
The battery was just two years old, but I suspected a couple years of layup with insufficient maintenance,
and that the compensator was making it bang on startup, a known issue with that style of compensator.

Even though it had very low miles, didn't dick around with it and installed the latest style comp and a new battery, all is well now.

Sounds like your battery may be marginal, you might want to do the compensator first, and see how the battery does with it.

Boardtracker Harley had the best deal for the comp at the time, it's more $$ because you have to replace the rotor also, which is included in the kit.

40100061 SE big twin Comp - $327.00 Ouch!

 

I keep hearing about the bad compensators in 09. I'm pretty intimidate by that job but also want to learn. Does the whole primary have to come off? Do I have to remove the clutch to get the chain off and then replace the comp? Any surprise tools I'll need? (Giant socket for clutch?)

I did strip my primary drain plug a few years ago this would give me an excuse to swap it. But that's only more $$!!!

 

Is this what a bad compensator sounds like?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SInuBErzyHE

If so this is not my problem. My bike sounds totally normal while running and this is no where near the situation or noise I'm trying to describe.

The following video is the closest to the problem I'm having.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=82VJzizOOJ8


It happened 3 times while hot on Sunday. At this point I'm ready to chalk it up to bad gas and forget it.

 

My bike did the exact same thing. Sounded fine while running. Would clank sporadically on start up, more when hot. Compensator was going bad, replaced and has never made the noise since. I'd bet it's your compensator.

 

My bike only had 2,700 miles on it, no noise while running, just a loud embarrassing bang and sometimes made it sneeze and not start up.

Doesn't even look wore anywhere on it, I think it's a problem with the spring being weak.

 

You suppose to take the inner primary off because the rotor won't clear and come out, I left it on and ground clearance on the inner so it'll come out if I need to get to the stator in the future.

I'm sure a how to is probably on Youtube

 

Will the noise get worse? Is it a problem? Does it need to be replaced other than being embarrassing once once in a while?

 

Mine does that too, only after riding it for a while (once it gets hot) and i stop somewhere to get gas or whatever. Ive learned to just hit the starter button once real quick and release it..then punch it for real and it wont make that noise.