The front cylinder chimney has a temp sensor deep down inside.
The temp sensor sends signal for the plunger on the idle control making it go in and out.
A bad temp sensor makes the plunger act incorrectly and flip/ flop..
You can take the temp sensor out and test resistance with a digital voltage meter at a few temps. For example 230 F 153 resistance, 194F 275 resistance, 158F 526 resistance, 122 F 1080 resistance, 77F 3000 resistance, 50F 5970 resistance, 32 F 9750 resistance.
Another test is wait until bike is running smoothly and disconnect the plug to the idle control motor...might get a code but it is a possible test.
The bike should run perfectly, but will require holding throttle during warm-up because the idle control motor is disconnected but the plunger is stuck in correct idle position..
It is a $100 USA dollar part for that year and it is a dealer only part.
Any other part cross reference is wrong because it will have different threads and is the incorrect length..
The system is rather simple but it seems that few people want to read the ONE chapter that keeps the bikes running.

 

In my experience, the most common reasons for your problem are, in likely order;

1. Engine Temp Sensor --as mentioned in previous responses. Symptoms tend to be unpredictable and sudden idle increase to the 2000-2500 RPM range after the engine warms up. Also seems to start appearing around the change of seasons for some reason.
2. Bent arm on IAC linkage at the TB. This is very easy to bend during assembly/disassembly, and may be bent to where it just barely touches the TB or other part. As temps increase, sizes change and the thing hangs up. (Really! I've seen it more than once).
3. Bad IAC motor? Possible, but not likely. This would tend to show up as a refusal to idle when cold, I would think. Easy to check: If it comes all the way out at key-on, then retracts a bit, it's probably okay.
4. ECM problem? Not Likely, as a bad ECM doesn't usually show up as a fast idle problem.
5. Idle settings? Not likely, as one can't get to the electronics/programming that control change in idle speed based on engine temp. In general, as far as idle settings go, it either idles at cold start, or it doesn't.

As to the ETS, I have found that "insulating" it somehow seems to help preserve it's life. I simply wrap a piece of cloth around it and push the wrapping down in the well.


It may be realistic to just consider the ETS a consumable, and prepare to change it every couple years. They're getting harder to find, so maybe getting a few would be good insurance for the future? I usually keep 2 or 3 around.

 

Thanks for the info and wisdom. One of our local techs thought it might be a seal or damage on the air intake manifold. My bike is on my hoist in the garage for the winter anyway, so fired it up and went about looking for any leaks. None. Visual review of butterfly on AI didn't show any damage. Everything looks good..... good bless this cocky lad (the tech), he tells me he will find the problem in less than an hour; and to be honest if there weren't snow on the ground preventing me from getting to him easily, I'd take him up on.... I have spent 4 times that much time just researching things lol....

Anyway, I am going to rely on the wisdom of experience, and follow you guys. ETS was my first and logical consideration, and seeing as that seems to be the popular suggestion, it is what I'm going to try.

Thank you all. I will follow up once I sort it out and ice and snow melts so I can hit the road again..... I love being Canadian (and our beer) but I hate our weather.