Gas leaking on a 02 softail
#1
09-15-2016, 10:52 PM
Gas leaking on a 02 softail
Well I took the bike out for a nice long ride today and when I got it home noticed a gas smell. After some investigating it is leaking right under the tank where the quick realise from the tank hooks up with a line that goes to the motor. Took it apart and fiddled a bit but when bike is off no leak but when I turn the power on lots of gas squirts out right at the connection. Just wondering what I should change and can I do this myself as I live a ways from a dealer. Thanks
#2
09-15-2016, 11:03 PM
Club Member
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richard 02 (09-16-2016)
#4
09-16-2016, 09:13 AM
Assuming you have the one-fitting quick-release that is threaded into the bottom of the tank...
Here is a link to the correct set of o-rings to do the job: http://www.ebay.com/itm/252334494532...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I believe that the seller is a member here on the forums, and knows these valves well, having worked with them in production in the past.
I just replaced all three o-rings in my '06 Street Bob about a week ago that was doing the same thing--problem totally fixed. I ordered another set for the next guy who comes to my shop with the same problem...
A couple of tips for the job:
1. Drain the tank first. I used some spare 1/4 fuel line and siphoned out the tank from the fill cap, then drained what I could from the upper part of the fuel valve by inserting the male portion into it without the hose that goes to the engine attached. You'll figure that part out easily enough.
2. A common theory is that only the largest o-ring needs to be replaced, and that might work for some folks. It didn't work for me. The two o-rings that seal off the spring valves in either end had degraded to the point that fuel would push through and around them when under pressure. Digging them out of their respective places was like digging out old, hard cheese that was smashed into a sidewalk crack--with a dental pick.
3. With a 7/8 wrench, remove the whole fuel valve from the tank. It will take several revolutions to remove, and some gas will still leak out when it comes out, just catch it with a rag. Note that the in-tank line that feeds the valve will be twisted a few revolutions at first. Let it unwind so that you can see directly into the valve body with the slack that becomes available, and remember to rewind it before re-inserting it into the tank, so that the line isn't twisted when it's all back together.
4. Making sure that you get all of the old o-ring material out, begin re-assembling the valves in both ends of the valve, with the new o-rings. It's a little fiddly, but easy enough to do when you can see into the upper valve body.
All the best,
Shane
Here is a link to the correct set of o-rings to do the job: http://www.ebay.com/itm/252334494532...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I believe that the seller is a member here on the forums, and knows these valves well, having worked with them in production in the past.
I just replaced all three o-rings in my '06 Street Bob about a week ago that was doing the same thing--problem totally fixed. I ordered another set for the next guy who comes to my shop with the same problem...
A couple of tips for the job:
1. Drain the tank first. I used some spare 1/4 fuel line and siphoned out the tank from the fill cap, then drained what I could from the upper part of the fuel valve by inserting the male portion into it without the hose that goes to the engine attached. You'll figure that part out easily enough.
2. A common theory is that only the largest o-ring needs to be replaced, and that might work for some folks. It didn't work for me. The two o-rings that seal off the spring valves in either end had degraded to the point that fuel would push through and around them when under pressure. Digging them out of their respective places was like digging out old, hard cheese that was smashed into a sidewalk crack--with a dental pick.
3. With a 7/8 wrench, remove the whole fuel valve from the tank. It will take several revolutions to remove, and some gas will still leak out when it comes out, just catch it with a rag. Note that the in-tank line that feeds the valve will be twisted a few revolutions at first. Let it unwind so that you can see directly into the valve body with the slack that becomes available, and remember to rewind it before re-inserting it into the tank, so that the line isn't twisted when it's all back together.
4. Making sure that you get all of the old o-ring material out, begin re-assembling the valves in both ends of the valve, with the new o-rings. It's a little fiddly, but easy enough to do when you can see into the upper valve body.
All the best,
Shane
The following users liked this post:
richard 02 (09-16-2016)
#5
09-16-2016, 10:05 PM
#7
06-28-2017, 09:37 PM
3rd Gear
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#8
06-29-2017, 09:29 AM
#9
07-06-2017, 07:38 PM
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Update, installed all 3 o-rings, 1 on the gas line, 2 inside the quick release. Orderd then from the eBay link above. Day 3 riding no leaks yet. One word of advice, in the quick release is a spring and small "piston" do not attempt to install the upper o-ring with out the piston and spring already in there, they cannot clear the upper o-ring if you install it first. (Spent about 2 hours trying to jam in in there before realizing). Tool kit needed is a dental pic and dental mirror. Good luck to anyone else doing the diy.