Needs compression on the rear cylinder to spark..

The smaller Deka big cranks suck.. Yuasa is better. The tender might have dried out the battery..

Load test is good provided it is done with a good load tester..

 

the missing flywheel teeth combined with compressuon from either cylinder tell it when to throw spark. Ecm knows when nit sees decel from either compression stroke and phases to crank from the missing teeth.

 

Only needs the rear cylinder.. Understand about the missing teeth.. The teeth only tell the position of the crank. Compression if the rear is important as to fire front cylinder timing with rear timing would be way to much timing..

 

I had a similar issue earlier this year. In the end the battery failed load test and couldn't provide enough voltage to turn the starter over as usual or keep the Thundermax functioning properly, which corrupted the map. Make sure that battery is fully charged when you take it to be load tested.

 

Thanks everyone for the info. I put a voltmeter on the battery yesterday afternoon, and even then, the voltage dropped down into the 6v range for a second before stabilizing at a bit over 9 volts while cranking. Then, I used my big battery charger that shows percentage of charge plus voltage. Even being "fully charged" with the battery tender (green light) it showed 12.7 volts, but only 38%.

So....I'll be going down to Mathews HD on Saturday to get a new "Jenn Yoo Wine" HD battery. I have cables on order (JP Cycles) but if the ain't here by then, I'll buy a new ground cable as it was looking tired.

I appreciate the help guys. being fairly old school, I was having difficulty wrapping my head around this just being a battery issue.

 

Problem seems to be solved, thanks to all of your input guys! Much appreciated. You guys were right. It was the battery. I can't believe that with over 40 years of wrenching behind me, I let a battery failure stump me. In days of yore, without all the electronics, it the starter had enough to turn the motor, it would most likely fire. But the modern systems seem to need more juice to even get fire to the plugs.

I'm gonna leave the PC III plugged in for the time being. I have one last road trip to do this year, and I don't wanna "upset the apple cart." After that, I have some engine work planned, and I'll look at improving that aspect at that time. It might also factor into the decision as to whether to leave the stock cams in it, or switch 'em out. If I decide to go to a new tuner, it'll be a good time to make that cam swap.

Anyway, my new battery cables arrived fro JP Cycle yesterday, so I went to the store and bought a new battery. Bazinga! she cranks over fast and fired up right away. I also bought an Accel coil and plug wires and put a fresh set of plugs in it.

And just as one problem is solved, another presents itself. After getting things buttoned up and going through a systems check, I found I had no brake light. A few simple tests with a test light, and I found the problem is between the rear brake light switch and the rear light harness plug on the chassis side. Unplug the rear brake light switch, and the brake light works with the front brake. There is power to the rear BL switch, but with it plugged in it kills the circuit. Soooooo.... There's a short after the switch and before the chassis plug. Fun stuff!

 

Riding to the Hot Rod Reunion this weekend?

 

Normally, I'd be racing. But the racer is down for the year. I ran it last week at Famoso, and it fell off in performance by three tenths and 7mph.

Soooo....I'll get 'er going for the March Meet, and that process begins this weekend.

The hot rod reunion is a good show for certain!

 

Trying to make it for Sunday. I don't have any toys anymore, lol